bx FEL bucket quick attach

[RedDirt]

QUOTE :
We are currently working on the premise that they take about 15 or 20 mins to drive out, but, what if that could be reduced to less than 5 mins? In my mind, then, you simply build your other attachments to fit the stock pin locations and VIOLA!!

I agree.

There is a recent post on the Customization forum, I think "FEL Attachment". Half way through the referenced article a guy built a quick attach for a three pin FEL. He did a similar system to a skid steer. A lot of work and it still looks too heavy for the limited BX FEL capacity.

I still haven't removed my bucket but it seems the major complaints from those that have reported doing it has been 1: messing with the pins (two sizes keeper bolts, driving pins in/out & re-greasing), and, 2: alignment of the arms & cylinder.

If pins were made slip fit and a holding jig was built to maintain the three hole pin registration perhaps a switch could be 5 minutes. Less than ten would be acceptable for me.

I envision a registration jig as a stable assembly of wood or metal with quick clamps to hold the arms and cylinder in their hole mating alignment. A piece of 3/4 ply with notches for the arms and a half moon hole for the cylinder rod would work. Maybe the notches and half hole employ HF quick clamps (bar type w/squeeze lever ), or similar. The jig is attached to the arms and cylinder before the "existing" implement is removed. The existing implement is removed. Then when the "new" implement cylinder pin is aligned the arm pin holes are very close to where they need to be for the pins.

A pin alignment tool would help. This would be a shaft of (loose) pin diameter stock with a tapered end.

Having a level staging area, maybe with implement racks, would facilitate easier alignment.

If only a few front implements are being interchanged an implement rack could be built simply with four 4x4 posts and 2x4's cross members that would stack the implements one above the other (like shelves). This way the tractor stays put, only backing and forward a foot or so and the arms are only raised and lowered to each implement (no curl). The 2x4 cross members that hold the implement would be set so each implement has the correct (standard) "tilt" for the hook-up at that elevation. You could even put a couple of short tire curbs staked into the ground that would align the tractor side to side.

 

[Just2quickz28]

I agree.

I still haven't removed my bucket but it seems the major complaints from those that have reported doing it has been 1: messing with the pins (two sizes keeper bolts, driving pins in/out & re-greasing), and, 2: alignment of the arms & cylinder.

All 3 are issues. messing with the pins is a pain because if you drop them in the dirt you must clean them before putting them back in, and dropping them is common when you are doing it by yourself because using a 3/8s socket extension and a rubber mallet you do not have the extra hand to grab the pin as it comes out. alignment of the arms is not too bad when dealing with the bucket, anything that weighs a bit more is hard. also because the cylinder is not support it falls down between the arms when removed which makes hooking it back up almost a 2 man job, one to run the joystick the other to hold and place the cylinder.

To make it easier on myself lately I have been putting the bucket and plow up on my heavy duty saw horses so that it would not be on the ground.

 

[Just2quickz28]

There is a recent post on the Customization forum, I think "FEL Attachment". Half way through the referenced article a guy built a quick attach for a three pin FEL. He did a similar system to a skid steer. A lot of work and it still looks too heavy for the limited BX FEL capacity.

I found the link you were referencing
Machine Builders Network

But that becomes a weight issue, I wonder how much that really weighs?

 

[SkunkWerX]

Redirt and Just2Quick,

Great ideas from you guys! thanks.

Here are a few thoughts to address the issues listed so far:

Issue: Needing a small socket set/wrench to remove the keeper nuts and bolts holding the pins.
Answer: I was considering making them smooth pins with hairpins to hold them.

Issue: Pins too tight.
Answer: First, it may be those who have been removing them didn't relieve the downward pressure on the FEL, just like a 3PH a little tap of the hydraulic lever can make a world of difference. Also, polishing the pins and the sleeves they ride in should certainly help.

Issue: Registering the 3 Pin locations.
Answer: Not sure about how critical this is, especially the center curl cylinder. I look at the curl cylinder liek the top link of a 3PH. there is side/side play, so, why not just grab the cylinder and move it into alignment like a toplink. Only build a registering assembly if needed, adding weight only if necessary.

Issue: Pin Alignment tool.
Answer: YES!! perfect! great idea. And, perhaps use a softer metal or PVC Pipe so it can be used as a drift when pushing the pins out?

I also like the idea of a rack mounted system for a couple of attachments.

I will try to drift out a pin today, give you my thoughts this evening.

 

[Just2quickz28]

A little clarification:

The pins are drive in style, even releving the pressure on the bucket did not help. But grinding them down and/or replacing them with the slipfit pin style that some of the other tractors have would help.

Aligning the pin locations with the center cylinder is almost a 2 man job because you cannot pull on the cylinder to make it extend to match the pin hole. it is not the side to side movement its the length alignment.

 

[SkunkWerX]

A little clarification:

The pins are drive in style, even releving the pressure on the bucket did not help. But grinding them down and/or replacing them with the slipfit pin style that some of the other tractors have would help.

Aligning the pin locations with the center cylinder is almost a 2 man job because you cannot pull on the cylinder to make it extend to match the pin hole. it is not the side to side movement its the length alignment.

Hey Matt,

individual tractors may be different. i am worknig in my home office, so I jsut took a coffee break and went to check on the Pin issues.

Here is what I did:

I raised the bucket and set it down gently on a stand, then relieved pressure using the joystick so that the down force and curl force were neutralized (Similar to how you do with a 3PH). I removed the retaining nut and bolt.

I used a composite "no bounce" hammer, and hit the pin at about 1/3rd force.

THE PIN SLID RIGHT OUT! When I hit it, it moved about 2 inches, I grabbed it, and started pulling and it starting sliding out the rest of the way in my hand!!

That was Easy.

A couple thoughts: How many hours of FEL work do you have on your machine? If it's newer, maybe it is still tight?
I have about 150 hours on my tractor, and I have unloaded and dumped about 80 yards of woodschips, several cords of wood, and done a lot of grapple debris clearing. So, I am only guessing , maybe mine have gotten enough use where they are free?

At any rate, I wouldn't do any machining or grinding on those pins!!!!
As I mentioned above, I would do some polishing ONLY. Just smooth the pins and sleeves.

I popped the center pin back in, and replaced the keeper bolt.


As far as aligning the center cylinder , if it was off a little, I would either use a lever on the attachment to bring it into alignment, or, I would use the joystick to get the center cylinder within 1/2" or 1/4", then using a foot lever (large screwdriver) make the final line-up.

I think the biggest factor is removing the pressure and tension on the bucket/pins when placing it on the floor or a stand. If you place it on the floor and just shut the machine off there could be 200 lbs. of down force on those pins, making them a booger to remove.

OK, this is all I need. I have to finish up a couple other projects, but then, I'll be looking at building a set of forks that PIN up to the stock pins.

Then maybe a full fledged dedicated debris grapple!! whoo hoo.

 

[Just2quickz28]

Maybe mine being at 50hrs is still a lil on the tight side. but I have a pain time lining up the pins on my plow because I need to extend the center cylinder about 3/4s of the way and then attach it (not set up with the same dimensions as the bucket)

Maybe some hitchpins (slipfit pins) would help the situation Hitch Pins Forged Product Info and Reviews | DoItYourself.com

Still looking for the no tool swap

 

[SkunkWerX]

Maybe mine being at 50hrs is still a lil on the tight side. but I have a pain time lining up the pins on my plow because I need to extend the center cylinder about 3/4s of the way and then attach it (not set up with the same dimensions as the bucket)

Maybe some hitchpins (slipfit pins) would help the situation Hitch Pins Forged Product Info and Reviews | DoItYourself.com

I think you would want a fairly tight fit, no rattling. You don't want to create a problem where your sleeve holes become oblonged or mis-shapen.

Try polishing your Pins. Maybe use some 1200 grit wet-dry paper, then tripoli/emery compound on a buffing wheel. I'll bet it's not going to take much , at all to get them to slide easier. And also, with use, they are goingto naturally get a little looser.

At low RPMs you should be able to dial that center cylinder in to within 1/16" or so of alignment. Making an alignment tool would probably be helpful.

 

[Just2quickz28]

I will have to take a picture of the snow plow when I get home from work to show the issue I have been having with the alignment of the center cylinder.

Might be time to break out the cutting torch and welder to adjust the snow plow

 

[SkunkWerX]

I will have to take a picture of the snow plow when I get home from work to show the issue I have been having with the alignment of the center cylinder.

Might be time to break out the cutting torch and welder to adjust the snow plow

A pic would be good.

Do you have a problem when re-installed the factory bucket back onto the factory pins? They should line up.