BX Oil Change Frequency

[theboman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I change the oil and filter every spring, no matter how many hours I have put on during the winter(always less than 20.) Then I change every 50 hours during the summer mowing season (usually once, this past year twice.) I also change when I store the MMM for the winter. Probably overkill but it makes me feel better.
Will )</font>

I've changed mine too during summer months every 50 hours.
Since I mow 85% of the time with my B7500 I consider that harsh conditions since all the dust, seed in the air. With that in mind I also keep a close eye on my air filter. I figure what's 30 minutes and $10 for a little piece of mind. I have noticed that the oil gets really black in 50 hours, so to me that's time to change.

FYI, I use Kubota filters and New Holland SAE 30w oil as recommended by the dealer here. If it's good enoungh for them it's good enough for me.

 

[gsxr1100]

$10 for a complete oil change? Sounds like a group 1 or maybe 2 oil. No wonder it turnes black after 50 hours.

It will not matter if in dusty conditions or not unless you air filter is not working correctly. Also if you air filter is not working, you will have high leves of SI in oil. The dust is not the problem, but the air filter.

Also a straight 30w oil will not have a good additive package like a mutli weight...most times. Also I would not put 100% faith in all dealers. Example, my dealer is the best to date but the guy that fixes the untis said I was not to use gear fluid in the front axle. Gee, kubota states it is fine in there manual, go figure.

 

[Henro]

One problem I have is making sense of an hour recommendation when I look at the BX series VS the B series.

The BX hour meter counts actual hours when the key is turned on. The B-series hour meter counts hours proportional to RPM. So it generally takes more hours of engine running time to get an hour on the hour meter with the B. Probably on average for me 40% more actual operating hours.

But both owner’s manuals call out the same change frequency for just about everything.

And if I follow the manuals, I actually change oil at different real-time hour points. A hundred hours on the B-series tractor equates to about 140 hours on the BX in real-time engine-was-running terms.

Conversely, 100 hours on the BX would clock only about 70 hours on the B-series.

To this point I have been doing a little better than the manuals recommend. However, I am still having trouble determining if I am doing “good(B) and better(BX)” or “just enough(BX) and worse(B)”

In the end Junkman, when it comes to our tractors, excessive is reasonable, isn’t it? Keep up the good work!

 

[gsxr1100]

I agree to a point but when does excessive turn into just play wasteful, non-production and does nothing. Unless you are testing the oil, you have zero clue on if what you are doing is even benefiting anything.

If excessive is reasonable, then you would drain the complete sump every time you use the tractor.

I will say this, show me oil results between 50 and 100 hours and lets see the #'s? Then lets see if "excessive" does anything but waste items.

 

[theboman]

Not sure what group 1 or 2 oil is but thanks for the heads up.

The SAE 30w is New Holland oil and I'm sure the dealer don't want to do warranty repairs for the having customers using bad oil.

As far as Kubota's manual they want you to buy Kubota oil. I'm guessing it's a major brand oil with a Kubota label and possiblily and extra additive.

On dusty conditions. Ever read a car/truck owners manual? These are harsh conditions and oil should be changed more often. Dust makes everything work harder and hotter, including diesel engines. I'm always blowing off the radiator screen of dust, seed and leaves to cool the engine. The hotter temps cause oil to break down quicker. That's what I'm getting at.

 

[gsxr1100]

They do not state you have to use any "brand oil"; however, it must pass the proper API spec, that is all.

yes I have read the manual and so far since I have been driving my oil tests show me what works and what does not; not a manual.

Dust makes everything work harder? Again a good oil filter, along with oil and air filter will hold up to most conditions. The hot temps cause more coking and the additive package to deplate. A dino oil will deplate faster then a synthetic.

 

[theboman]

Kubota's web site recommended oil change schedule. 50/200/400 hours.... NOT what the manual says.

 

[theboman]

www.api.org/eolcs

 

[gsxr1100]

junkman is correct since I have looked at the manual several times in the 2 year of having my BX. Also the website is "generic" and states "We recommend that you consult the Operator's Manual for information on your specific model".

 

[theboman]

But the generic webisite must be accpetable for them otherwise they'd never post the information.