BX2200 Cranks but Won't Start

[imchyzikj]

My trusty 2001 BX2200 with 1000 hours has got me stumped. It cranks but won't start. I've tried the most obvious fixes including:
- drain tank and refill with fresh fuel
- replaced both fuel filters
- removed and cleaned fuel injectors (first time since purchased new)
- replaced glow plugs (first time since purchased new)
- replaced ignition switch
- cleaned air filter (using a K&N)

When I replaced the glow plugs the tips of the old ones were sooty/greasy
I checked the old glow plugs and they all "glowed" when I bench tested them with 12V
Fuel pump appears to work - fuel spurts from loose connection near manifold
I have not tested fuel pressure

The next thing on my list is to replace the in-line fuel pump (not injector pump) since that's an inexpensive and easy swap, even though I hear it clicking when I turn the key.

Interesting note: I tested the voltage on the glow plug electrical bus while in the preheat ignition switch setting and it was only 2V - I expected 12V but just guessing.

Would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks in advance!

 

[thepumpguysc]

Minimum v at gp’s would be 6-8v.. run a jumper wire from the battery + straight to the buss bar.. count to 25-1000 & try to start it..

 

[JWR]

First questions and then I will comment: 1) When cranking do you get smoke or intermittent ignition of fuel or NO combustion? 2) Was it running OK before this issue came up?
I am assuming it had been running which means it had enough compression to cause combustion if there were fuel present in the right amounts and at the right times. 1000 hrs is not that much. I have two BX2200's (one of my own and another I maintain) and both have around 1000 hrs on them. So what I would do is:

• Unscrew / disconnect the high pressure input lines to each injector, one at a time. If each one squirts at obvious high pressure you must be getting fuel into the cylinders and it should start. If you are NOT getting fuel to each injector you have to track that back to why not. Having had all the stuff loose you described by now you may have a good bit of air in the lines and that needs to be bled out.
• It seems unlikely that you would have one or more injector failures enough to cause this. Diesel shops and/or tractor repair places can test the injectors if one thought that was a problem. They would not go from working one day to not able to work at all the next day.
• My understanding is that you already checked and know you have fuel at low pressure going INTO the injector pump, right?
• I disagree about voltage at the glow plugs. If they are all good each amounts to a low resistance darn near short to the ground of the block. I do not KNOW but I would not be surprised at the 2 volt reading. In this warmer weather you should be getting some combustion if fuel is getting in to the cylinders even if they glow plugs are not perfect...and besides you said you just put new ones in. Of course good to check tight clean connections to the glow plugs and back at the source too.
• I do not see any reason to replace the low pressure fuel pump (lift pump.) If you get spurts from that line just prior to the injection pump why replace that lift pump?
• Maybe we are going at the wrong end of this thing -- have you checked to see that the shut off solenoid and valve are working properly? Maybe you shutoff valve is cutting off fuel as it would to stop the engine BUT I would think you have failed to get fuel at entry to the injection pump if that were the case.

Don't do a lot of parts buying and spending until you do more investigation. It is probably something grossly simple.
Please keep us updated. And good luck of course.

 

[Henro]

Remove the fuel shutoff solenoid from the injector pump and see what happens. If it starts you will have to hold the solenoid back in place to shut the engine down.

If there is a problem with the solenoid activating, the engine will not start. It is very easy to remove. Two small screws or bolts, don’t remember which.

Been down a similar road with my BX2200, so experience speaking here.

 

[imchyzikj]

First questions and then I will comment: 1) When cranking do you get smoke or intermittent ignition of fuel or NO combustion? 2) Was it running OK before this issue came up?
I am assuming it had been running which means it had enough compression to cause combustion if there were fuel present in the right amounts and at the right times. 1000 hrs is not that much. I have two BX2200's (one of my own and another I maintain) and both have around 1000 hrs on them. So what I would do is:

• Unscrew / disconnect the high pressure input lines to each injector, one at a time. If each one squirts at obvious high pressure you must be getting fuel into the cylinders and it should start. If you are NOT getting fuel to each injector you have to track that back to why not. Having had all the stuff loose you described by now you may have a good bit of air in the lines and that needs to be bled out.
• It seems unlikely that you would have one or more injector failures enough to cause this. Diesel shops and/or tractor repair places can test the injectors if one thought that was a problem. They would not go from working one day to not able to work at all the next day.
• My understanding is that you already checked and know you have fuel at low pressure going INTO the injector pump, right?
• I disagree about voltage at the glow plugs. If they are all good each amounts to a low resistance darn near short to the ground of the block. I do not KNOW but I would not be surprised at the 2 volt reading. In this warmer weather you should be getting some combustion if fuel is getting in to the cylinders even if they glow plugs are not perfect...and besides you said you just put new ones in. Of course good to check tight clean connections to the glow plugs and back at the source too.
• I do not see any reason to replace the low pressure fuel pump (lift pump.) If you get spurts from that line just prior to the injection pump why replace that lift pump?
• Maybe we are going at the wrong end of this thing -- have you checked to see that the shut off solenoid and valve are working properly? Maybe you shutoff valve is cutting off fuel as it would to stop the engine BUT I would think you have failed to get fuel at entry to the injection pump if that were the case.

Don't do a lot of parts buying and spending until you do more investigation. It is probably something grossly simple.
Please keep us updated. And good luck of course.

I've been out of town for a while and not able to work on my tractor or reply to the helpful suggestions in the thread. I realized while I was away that I had a spare fuel shut off solenoid in my garage. I installed that and, as suggested by others, reached my finger into the high pressure pump to make sure the slide was free (it was - easy to slide back/forth). I installed the new solenoid and tried to start the tractor. No change. I took a video of the results and posted below (hope it works). I'd appreciate any continued suggestions.
-Jeff

 

[Henro]

Do you have a similar thread going on OTT?

Remove the fuel cut off solenoid and see if it starts.

Simple to do and it will point you in the right direction. Replacing one good solenoid with another does not eliminate the possibility of an electrical control issue.

Remove the fuel cut off solenoid and see if it starts...

 

[JWR]

Some nefarious or at best dysfunctional mechanism will not let me edit my own Post #3. I want ot say m,y Post #3 may be erroneous in that the shutoff solenoid cutoff might be internal/integral to the injection pump rather than preceding it in the fuel chain. If so, your having fuel on the low pressure side BEFORE the injection pump would not matter if the shutoff mechanism took over.

 

[Eagle1]

Do you have a similar thread going on OTT?

Remove the fuel cut off solenoid and see if it starts.

Simple to do and it will point you in the right direction. Replacing one good solenoid with another does not eliminate the possibility of an electrical control issue.

Remove the fuel cut off solenoid and see if it starts...

Yup last new fuel solenoid I installed was total inop. Old one back in since it only gives very intermittent issues. I should just clean it up but time.......

 

[Mudder]

Did you get it fixed? If it is like my B7800, suggest replacing the start relay which feeds power to the fuel stop solenoid, especially if the solenoid works by jumping 12v to both power terminals simultaneously (body must be grounded). Best of luck.

Follow up with fix- B7800 no fuel stop solenoid activation. Crank, no start.

After months of intermittent crank but no start with no fuel stop solenoid “click”, finally fixed it by replacing the relay, ACA12115 (CA1a-12V-A-5) located inside the dash and beside the tachometer cable. Checked all grounds and even got a new battery. The solenoid passed a bench test with...

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