BX24 Fram Filters..........

[Matt_Jr]

I have found all aftermarket filters for the engine to be a little bigger than Kubota's and makes it a pain to put on and take off. The Kubota oil filter is perfect and at around $8.00 I can't see how that will break the bank on a 17k tractor. The hydro filter is not available yet but I would probably just buy the kubota filter anyway.

 

[czechsonofagun]

If you want to look little further, there is more info on oil filters, than you ever need.

Here are some tests:

Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources

If you want to know more about Fram and why I never use it, go here:

Motorcycle Oil Filters & Air Filters

As far as what company is using what filter - it is not necessarily b/c of the quality of the product or because the company made a test and a selection. It can be based on some long forgotten decision, specific relationship etc.

 

[RWEST]

What are the OEM filter part #'s? Take them to the Fram site Honeywell Consumer Products Group and you should be able to cross 'em.

If you have a dealer nearby, WIX/NAPA's are excellent too WIX filters, WIX oil filters, WIX air filters, WIX fuel filters, WIX Heavy Duty Oil Filters : Filter Look-Up We use a pile of 'em.

My brother's BX23 uses the same oil filter as my J-D (and so does his Honda motorcycle ) which works pretty well for stocking purposes!!

 

[Happyman]

I'm with Shumudda...if you properly maintain the equipment and change the oil in regular intervals the oil filter is almost not an issue.
The problem (as pointed out in testing) is when you run the oil too long, don't properly maintain the rest of the engine and you stress the oil system with sludge, high heat, etc. Then you may find one filter that will out perform another. But regular, good maintainance will not cause one filter to do better then another.
I was born and raised in Detroit, Michigan and my father worked for Chrysler. I had 10w-30 in my veins and still do. I worked on cars, trucks, motorcycles, tractors, mini bikes and anything that burned gas. I have torn abused engines down and properly mainatined engines. Proper oil service is THE most important issue, but the filter does not matter as long as you chnage oil as required. Leave old, nasty sludge in the engine and everything will wear regardless of the filter. If the filter clogs then your're in deeper sh&*.
However......when it comes to hydraulics and HST trannys, I stick with the OEM filters due to the high pressures and heat that come with hydraulics. At least that way I have a foot to stand on if problems occur and my dealer questions my filter choice (if the failure can be traced to filter failure).
That's my $.02
Quick thought...it's like beer. It will all get you drunk if you drink enough, some quicker then others, but it will all get you drunk and everybody has their favorite brand.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I'm with Shumudda...if you properly maintain the equipment and change the oil in regular intervals the oil filter is almost not an issue.
The problem (as pointed out in testing) is when you run the oil too long, don't properly maintain the rest of the engine and you stress the oil system with sludge, high heat, etc. Then you may find one filter that will out perform another. But regular, good maintainance will not cause one filter to do better then another.

Sorry, no. There have been problems with new Frams coming apart. Not prevalent, but happening. A mechanic friend had it happen to him. Doesnt matter how clean the oil is if filter bits are being pumped around with it. He has gone to Wix filters.
larry

 

[Happyman]

Sorry, no. There have been problems with new Frams coming apart. Not prevalent, but happening. A mechanic friend had it happen to him. Doesnt matter how clean the oil is if filter bits are being pumped around with it. He has gone to Wix filters.
larry

I don't buy that unless you check every filter made for "coming apart".
It can happen to any filter.
Look, I'm not in this for an argument. We each will have our own good reason for using whatever filter we think is best. I just won't buy into the Fram bashing despite the fact that it is not my choice of filter .

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Although not coming apart, I did have one Fram that was so far out of specs on the threaded fitting that it blew off when the engine was started up in the morning, after that I no longer selected them for my uses after using them for many years.

David Kb7uns

 

[Dargo]

As some here know, I am involved in an industry that repairs vehicles and have actuarial statistics on breakdowns as well as COF (cause of failure). I could go on for pages on the problems with Fram filters. That doesn't mean that someone won't come on and say that they've used Fram filters for XX years with no problems. As far as that goes, an old college buddy has a Chevy Chevette that has over 200k miles on it and feels as if it is one of the best cars ever made. I have a 1962 Chevy Biscayne with 100k miles on it and it never came with any sort of oil filter and never had one on it! It still runs fine. Does that mean engines don't need any oil filter? Same logic.

The fact is Fram makes the least expensive filters. Besides filtering, there are valves inside the filters that must perform correctly such as a valve to prevent flow back (keeps from having all the oil flow back down out of the upper engine) and a bypass valve (allows oil flow when the filter element is clogged. Both of these valves are considered "unacceptable" in Fram filters. Also the oil flow of a filter is very important. If you have a very small micron filter element (traps smaller particles), it must have a far larger surface area or it restricts oil flow. If you have a small surface area of the filter membrane (like on Fram), the filter element allows larger particles to pass through. Finally, there is the actual can itself. I can crush Fram filters with my hands like a soda can. If that filter is struck by a stick or rock etc., it is much more likely to break than other brand filters. Also, I have had two Fram filters blow their can apart when I used to use them. One was on a VW Baja Bug. I missed a gear and redlined the tach and the Fram can sort of exploded. Again, I could go on for page after page of similar Fram problems but I see no need.

I'm definitely in the camp of people who wouldn't touch anything with the Fram name on it. I have nothing with an engine that I consider worthless or disposable. There are plenty of quality filters from Baldwin, Donaldson, Wix etc. that are readily available and made far better than Fram. I'll summarize what statistics tells me about Fram filters; Fram filters are trash. But, it's your equipment. What is your equipment worth to you? If you feel it's worth risking your equipment to save a couple of bucks, that's your choice.

 

[Happyman]

As some here know, I am involved in an industry that repairs vehicles and have actuarial statistics on breakdowns as well as COF (cause of failure). I could go on for pages on the problems with Fram filters. That doesn't mean that someone won't come on and say that they've used Fram filters for XX years with no problems. As far as that goes, an old college buddy has a Chevy Chevette that has over 200k miles on it and feels as if it is one of the best cars ever made. I have a 1962 Chevy Biscayne with 100k miles on it and it never came with any sort of oil filter and never had one on it! It still runs fine. Does that mean engines don't need any oil filter? Same logic.

The fact is Fram makes the least expensive filters. Besides filtering, there are valves inside the filters that must perform correctly such as a valve to prevent flow back (keeps from having all the oil flow back down out of the upper engine) and a bypass valve (allows oil flow when the filter element is clogged. Both of these valves are considered "unacceptable" in Fram filters. Also the oil flow of a filter is very important. If you have a very small micron filter element (traps smaller particles), it must have a far larger surface area or it restricts oil flow. If you have a small surface area of the filter membrane (like on Fram), the filter element allows larger particles to pass through. Finally, there is the actual can itself. I can crush Fram filters with my hands like a soda can. If that filter is struck by a stick or rock etc., it is much more likely to break than other brand filters. Also, I have had two Fram filters blow their can apart when I used to use them. One was on a VW Baja Bug. I missed a gear and redlined the tach and the Fram can sort of exploded. Again, I could go on for page after page of similar Fram problems but I see no need.

I'm definitely in the camp of people who wouldn't touch anything with the Fram name on it. I have nothing with an engine that I consider worthless or disposable. There are plenty of quality filters from Baldwin, Donaldson, Wix etc. that are readily available and made far better than Fram. I'll summarize what statistics tells me about Fram filters; Fram filters are trash. But, it's your equipment. What is your equipment worth to you? If you feel it's worth risking your equipment to save a couple of bucks, that's your choice.

AMEN

 

[excelagator]

I have ran Fram filters for years on cars and trucks we ran well over 100k. I still do. Yes they are not the best filter, but they work. I have never seen a failure even my days as a wrench. Years ago when I was learning to use a wrench I tried different filters. I noticed with Fram filters I got more oil pressure. On a 350 I got a extra 5 psi over any other filter I tried. More oil pressure, more cooling and lubrication. Any filter has a life and once the filter is full it is done, done, done. Fram, Puralator, Wix, etc. I personally think regular oil changes, decent oil and a decent filter you pretty good to go.

Now on our tractor I run Wix engine filters due to being a diesel. On the trans on the 2210 I would run a really good filter because the service intervals being 200 hours. With our tractors I feel better running a Wix filter.

Dan