BX2750 snowblower

[Dyer retired]

I like the looks of that! Was that your own modification? I'm thinking I need to do something similar.

I recently traded in my 2000 BX2200 for a BX2660. The dealer said I'd be able to use the blower (a BX2750) and quick hitch with the new tractor after a few modifications.

I'm not satisfied with the modification that was done to accomodate the manual chute rotation. A bracket was clamped to the hydraulic control lever to hold the chute rotator rod. (See photo) I've tried using it and as I turn the rod I ram the hydraulic control lever left and right. And the blower sits further in front of the tractor now, so the two piece rod for the chute rotation is extended further and it flexes as you attempt to rotate it. The flex combined with the lever moving back and forth means you cannot completely turn it unless you stabilize the rod with your left hand and turn the handle with your right.

I'm told that is now the standard hookup now for the BX2660. I'd love to hear from anyone else using this setup. I was quoted $350 to go electric rotation and $750 for hydraulic rotation. I'd appreciate any feedback on these options as well.

Thanks.

Huck,

I would be unhappy too with the handle modification they did as shown in your picture. I can see why it's not performing the way it should for you and suspect that when the ice builds up at the chute and there is some resistance to turning, it will really become a problem for you. I wouldn't be very pleased with the dealer that came up with that design and can't imagine that Kubota would be recommending that as a solution?

The bracket on my tractor for the manual chute rod bolted to the control lever housing and was solid as a rock. I hope you can see the bracket in the picture and where it bolts up? I still have that bracket and will be happy to send that to you if it looks like you can use it. Is your control arm housing plastic or steel? That pivot point does need to be solidly attached, for the reasons you're seeing from the movable mount you currently have.

I recommend the hydraulic chute rotation and you can do it yourself for closer to $250.00 total. I bought a new hydraulic motor from Northern Tool, but there are plenty of hydraulic motors for sale on e-bay for much cheaper. The motor was the most expensive part of my build and the only other piece of the build that I couldn't do without help was welding up the support platform and brace. I designed it and a friend helped me with the welding. I came up with the mounting method, but there are a few threads that offer up different methods to do the same thing. I used the existing worm gear on the chute and used two half couplings to connect the motor to the worm gear. My dealer wanted $650.00 for a hydraulic system, so I saved a pile of money. Turning by hand wasn't bad, just slower than I wanted for when the big snows hit and the wind is pounding through...I think the hydraulic rotation will be a better experience. Dyer, retired

 

[huckflynn]

The bracket on my tractor for the manual chute rod bolted to the control lever housing and was solid as a rock.

That's how the mount was on my BX2200. I used it for 8 years without a problem. But there is no structure to attach that bracket to on the BX2660.

The dealer says that how mine is set is standard now for how they mount the snowblower chute rotation rods on the later BX's (since the design with the hydraulic control levers that stay with the tractor when you disconnect the FEL.)

I agree with you that snow and ice buildup is going to make it a bear to turn (it's a bear to turn without any snow and ice). Also, I'm afraid I'll be damaging the hydraulics from ramming the hydraulic control lever all over while trying to turn the chute.

I'd love to hear from someone using my current setup.

I'm going to take a closer look at your setup. The price sounds right. I just need to find a neighbor to fill in on the skills/equipment I lack to complete the install.

 

[Dyer retired]

That's how the mount was on my BX2200. I used it for 8 years without a problem. But there is no structure to attach that bracket to on the BX2660.

The dealer says that how mine is set is standard now for how they mount the snowblower chute rotation rods on the later BX's (since the design with the hydraulic control levers that stay with the tractor when you disconnect the FEL.)

I agree with you that snow and ice buildup is going to make it a bear to turn (it's a bear to turn without any snow and ice). Also, I'm afraid I'll be damaging the hydraulics from ramming the hydraulic control lever all over while trying to turn the chute.

I'd love to hear from someone using my current setup.

I'm going to take a closer look at your setup. The price sounds right. I just need to find a neighbor to fill in on the skills/equipment I lack to complete the install.

I should have also said that I only talked about the hydraulic rotation because I had the controls in place and they weren't being used, so I went that way so as to use the control lever for my blower lifting and lowering control...along with the chute rotation. I'm not sure how the electric chute control would work, but suspect it's fine, since it doesn't take very much power to turn the worm gear. My hydraulic motor is overkill really. I'm sure there are plenty of electric motors out there turning chutes, so maybe some TBN'ers will jump in with their experience. That would certainly be cheaper to install.

I'm curious too about others who have been provided with the same mount modification as you have for the manual crank. I bet someone has already come up with a remedy that will work better than what the dealer is proposing, so I'm anxious to see what others have done about this. Dyer, retired

 

[blagg]

Dyer, is your tie rod bent in that erliar pic?

 

[Dyer retired]

Dyer, is your tie rod bent in that erliar pic?

Nothing bent or scratched in that picture, ha! The tractor was about 4 hours old when that picture was taken, but it was the only one that I could find that showed the handcrank support on the hydraulic lever housing. It's got about 5 years of modifications on it now and plenty of bent parts now. I did manage to bend one of the lower drag links pushing a blade backwards, but the drag links have now been strenghtened and will not bend again. Dyer, retired

 

[Stoweski]

I'm not sure how the electric chute control would work, but suspect it's fine, since it doesn't take very much power to turn the worm gear. My hydraulic motor is overkill really. I'm sure there are plenty of electric motors out there turning chutes, so maybe some TBN'ers will jump in with their experience. That would certainly be cheaper to install.

Go back to page 1 of this thread and you'll see a few posts regarding using the electric motor as a chute rotator. Basically any window motor from a car or truck will do. I was able to get one from a friend who had a few extra cars sitting around. I found one from a corolla on ebay just now for $20. Not sure what a junkyard would have for a price. This just needs a mount (mine is attached to the same bracket as the worm gear) and then something to connect the gear on the motor to the worm gear. I had a metal rod welded to the gear but there are other options too.

With the electric chute deflector (linear actuator), a switch kit & wiring harness, and a bit of labor for the welding that I don't do, my total for everything was $250. Again, the only problem I've had is once when it was really cold and the water that melted refroze in the switch. That melted soon after the tractor warmed up the next time I went to use it. In two seasons I haven't had any problems with the system.

Oh, might as well add that I bought a trailer wire harness to use between the tractor and the blower so I can detach the electric easily.

Keith

 

[Dyer retired]

With the electric chute deflector (linear actuator), a switch kit & wiring harness, and a bit of labor for the welding that I don't do, my total for everything was $250. Again, the only problem I've had is once when it was really cold and the water that melted refroze in the switch. That melted soon after the tractor warmed up the next time I went to use it. In two seasons I haven't had any problems with the system.

Oh, might as well add that I bought a trailer wire harness to use between the tractor and the blower so I can detach the electric easily.

Keith

Keith,

I like the quick disconnect idea. I wanted to make sure that if I had to take the blower off mid winter for something, I could, so I ran quick disconnects on the hydraulic hoses....it turns out that they don't give those things away cheap! Huckflynn might want to try the electric route based on you not having serious problems...and those problems didn't have to do with the motor being able to turn the chute, just with the switch.

Huckflynn,

I was in Auburn today and stopped by a Kubota dealer to look at a 2660 they had on the lot. I guess when they ran the hydraulics lower and forward, they eliminated the need for the metal support post that my BX1800 has. I guess they didn't leave themselves much for alternatives to support the hand crank. It kind of looks like it would be substantially less engineering to rig up an electric or hydraulic chute rotation, than to try anchoring that handcrank more solidly. I'd have a hard time creating some support system that I would have to drill into that brand new machine. Let us know what you end up deciding. Dyer, retired

 

[huckflynn]

Huckflynn,

I was in Auburn today and stopped by a Kubota dealer to look at a 2660 they had on the lot. I guess when they ran the hydraulics lower and forward, they eliminated the need for the metal support post that my BX1800 has. I guess they didn't leave themselves much for alternatives to support the hand crank. It kind of looks like it would be substantially less engineering to rig up an electric or hydraulic chute rotation, than to try anchoring that handcrank more solidly. I'd have a hard time creating some support system that I would have to drill into that brand new machine. Let us know what you end up deciding. Dyer, retired

I'm leaning toward the hydraulic option. I'm guessing you have that motor tied into the same control lever that raises and lowers the blower. It looks/sounds lean, clean and dependable.

My son works in a local machine shop. He's going to hook me up with one of the guys down there that is familiar with both hydraulics and fabrication. I'll keep you posted on how it goes. Thanks for the help.

 

[Dyer retired]

I'm leaning toward the hydraulic option. I'm guessing you have that motor tied into the same control lever that raises and lowers the blower. It looks/sounds lean, clean and dependable.

My son works in a local machine shop. He's going to hook me up with one of the guys down there that is familiar with both hydraulics and fabrication. I'll keep you posted on how it goes. Thanks for the help.

I do have it tied into the control lever that raises and lowers the blower. I push the lever to the right and the chute turns right. I've read some posts about the stick being pushed to the right to get past the detent and then there is no control over the speed of the rotation, but mine doesn't hit the detent until it's nearly all the way to the right....so, I can turn the chute right or left as fast or slow as I want by just feathering the control lever. You'll like the function of the system and being able to do everything from one stick. Good luck. Dyer, retired

 

[Dyer retired]

Has any one had a problem with sand and debris getting in under the chute and the Rotation bushing. The road crew uses a lot of sand on the roads and when they plow the roads it leave a lot of slop at the end of the driveway. To keep the chute rotating freely I have to disassmble the chute two or three times a year and clean out sand.

There is a flange on the base of the chute were the rotation teath are at. There are four 0.25in holes in the flange one on each side of the chute. These hole let all the road sand and debris get in on the rotation bushing. I can not see why they are in the flange.

With that being said I am planning on welding the hole over in an attempt at keeping some of the debris from getting in.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Pkelly,

My neighbor just got a BX2750D blower for his 2620, so I had to go admire it last night. I got to see the holes you've described in his chute base and after an hour of pondering the utility of those holes, we couldn't come up with anything. He's going to try his, as is, and see what happens, but I suspect he'll find the dirt and grit getting in like you've experienced.

On another note, it sure is fun looking at a brand new piece of equipment with no scratches, dings, or bare spots yet, ha! I noticed on my neighbors 2750D that they have a better, easier to get at, shear bolt setup for the fan unit. I wonder if anyone can tell me what the D stands for, if anything? The rest of the mechanical workings of the blower is exactly the same as mine. Just curious. Dyer, retired