Bxpanded plow...anyone have anything to say about them?

[Mowbizz]

No, I didn't. I didn't buy anything. Someday I hope to have a fully hydraulic angled SSQA blade

That, is the best of the plow worlds! Good luck in getting one!

 

[k0ua]

That, is the best of the plow worlds! Good luck in getting one!

It is just a matter of money.. in the meantime, I guess I will drag snow with a rear blade, and stack it with the bucket. I do have the hydraulics up front now, so that much is done.

 

[GolfAddict]

Thank you...this is the info I'm looking for...whether the BX has the balls to push a good amount of snow. Keep the info coming!

I got the plow/quick hitch set up a couple years ago. It has hydraulic lift and swivel, and it works great! I have fluid filled turf tires, and that has been all I've needed so far - others say they added chains.

I can push a ton of snow, no issues as far as power to do it or anything. I have a real steep section in the driveway. If we get a good dumping of snow, on that I do sometimes have to plow down and come back up in the plowed lane to make another pass down. It is a traction issue though, not a power problem, which chains would likely overcome.

I looked at the BXpanded plow (I have a bunch of his other stuff, all top notch quality) but ultimately decided to go with the Kubota set up. I wanted the hydraulic angling real bad, and I was a bit concerned about the physics if I went with a bucket mounted plow - not really more than my gut feeling though, from doing some reading.

With a bucket mounted type, I read some about folks having more trouble with the snow load pushing you sideways, as with the plow out there so far it has more lever effect. More so on smaller, lower weight tractors like the BX. Folks also mentioned this is less of a problem with loader mounted, vs bucket mounted. Then there is some concern about that much sideways stress being applied to the loader arms.

Then, with the loader and bucket, then the plow sticking out from there, I knew the overall length would be getting pretty long, and for my garage situation that would be much less desirable.

I also thought I may want to go with a blower later, and then I'd already have the quick hitch. The plow has been awesome, but with the amount of snow we've been getting the last couple winters, I'm liking the blower idea more all the time...

 

[lamanated]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...191810-bxpanded-snow-plow.html?highlight=plow
the one I built is on pg 10

 

[Mowbizz]

Well, I think that even though the Bxpanded plow may be a quality product, the physics of having a plow so far out front would have me hesitant about spending a grand to only be remorseful about it's weaknesses rather than it's strengths. I'll suffer through this winter with my walk behind blowers and Polaris 800 with plow. The BX will be there in all it's bucket loading glory to fill in the snow piling/cleanup duties. Last winter brought epic proportions of snow and ice...can't imagine a worse winter happening this year but if it comes in with a cold and snowy blast, I'll fight it head on with the tools on hand.

 

[Colonel Monk]

I've also been thinking about this for a few years, and last year I spent A LOT of TIME researching this topic. I only found a few instances of bending on FEL loader arms, in comparison to many many others that didn't have any issues.

From what I could gather, those that had trouble weren't "floating" the plow, they were using downforce from the FEL on the plow which of course, depending on how you have the shoes set would continually drive you off the road. I have the same issue with our old plow Jeep when trying to scrape the slush. If you're doing scrape duty after a thaw, seems to help to angle the blade less. Not giving YOU a lesson, just mentioning what's worked for me in the Jeep, and why I think some folks have had issues tweaking their FEL arms.

I also think that plow size has alot to do with it - Putting an 8 foot plow on a small BX tractor is asking for trouble in my opinion - but again the amount and type of snow and how the skid shoes are set would greatly affect that. I've always had an underpowered plow vehicle so I've always used the shoes, and it makes a difference. Guys with a 6000# truck that do commercial just take them off and manhandle the plow - you aren't going to do that with a 3000# tractor.

I think that the bucket mounts people make where the A frame of the plow begins at the blade of the bucket are a mistake. They just stick too far out front which exacerbates the negatives of this sort of setup. Not sure yet if I'm a big fan of the "in bucket" setup either. I'm considering doing this, and kind of plan to build a mount frame that goes under the bucket, and use chain binders to hold it in place for quick removal. Having the blade lip above the A-frame still gives you the option of downforce if you need to scrape. I know it's a bit hypocritical to say after stating I figure it's the downforce that bends the lighter weight FEL arms, but for slush removal after a thaw on my road I think it will be a big help, but I'd run the blade straighter so it doesn't grab so much. For lifting, you hook the chain to a grab on the bucket with some slack, so the FEL picks up the plow but you don't have to run it with downforce - basically you're still using the pivoting mounts on the snow plow to float the blade.

As for the BXpanded plow - I cannot vouch for quality, but you're paying quite a bit for convenience, which is important to some folks. There are several $200 plows for sale around me right now on Craigslist, which don't have truck frames or power units but still have the hydro-turn cyls - and for a few hours of design and welding you can have a better made plow on your tractor. That is my plan, since I broke the T-handle off the plow control on old plow Jeep yesterday.

Good Luck to all, and not a dig on the BXpanded folks - just sayin that you could buy a $200 6 foot plow and go to your welding shop with a picture and have it mounted and plowing in no time for alot less.

 

[Mowbizz]

I've also been thinking about this for a few years, and last year I spent A LOT of TIME researching this topic. I only found a few instances of bending on FEL loader arms, in comparison to many many others that didn't have any issues.

From what I could gather, those that had trouble weren't "floating" the plow, they were using downforce from the FEL on the plow which of course, depending on how you have the shoes set would continually drive you off the road. I have the same issue with our old plow Jeep when trying to scrape the slush. If you're doing scrape duty after a thaw, seems to help to angle the blade less. Not giving YOU a lesson, just mentioning what's worked for me in the Jeep, and why I think some folks have had issues tweaking their FEL arms.

I also think that plow size has alot to do with it - Putting an 8 foot plow on a small BX tractor is asking for trouble in my opinion - but again the amount and type of snow and how the skid shoes are set would greatly affect that. I've always had an underpowered plow vehicle so I've always used the shoes, and it makes a difference. Guys with a 6000# truck that do commercial just take them off and manhandle the plow - you aren't going to do that with a 3000# tractor.

I think that the bucket mounts people make where the A frame of the plow begins at the blade of the bucket are a mistake. They just stick too far out front which exacerbates the negatives of this sort of setup. Not sure yet if I'm a big fan of the "in bucket" setup either. I'm considering doing this, and kind of plan to build a mount frame that goes under the bucket, and use chain binders to hold it in place for quick removal. Having the blade lip above the A-frame still gives you the option of downforce if you need to scrape. I know it's a bit hypocritical to say after stating I figure it's the downforce that bends the lighter weight FEL arms, but for slush removal after a thaw on my road I think it will be a big help, but I'd run the blade straighter so it doesn't grab so much. For lifting, you hook the chain to a grab on the bucket with some slack, so the FEL picks up the plow but you don't have to run it with downforce - basically you're still using the pivoting mounts on the snow plow to float the blade.

As for the BXpanded plow - I cannot vouch for quality, but you're paying quite a bit for convenience, which is important to some folks. There are several $200 plows for sale around me right now on Craigslist, which don't have truck frames or power units but still have the hydro-turn cyls - and for a few hours of design and welding you can have a better made plow on your tractor. That is my plan, since I broke the T-handle off the plow control on old plow Jeep yesterday.

Good Luck to all, and not a dig on the BXpanded folks - just sayin that you could buy a $200 6 foot plow and go to your welding shop with a picture and have it mounted and plowing in no time for alot less.

Good info and common sense thinking! Thanks!

 

[Normal Bill]

I have a bxpanded plow and I really like it. I use it for the typical 6" snowfalls that we have. It is quick and convenient.

For the 12"+ snowfalls I use the Kubota PTO Snowblower. It is slow but awesome.

The plow gets a workout on my 1/4 mile driveway. I do have the shoes to keep it from digging into the gravel. I like the way that I can quickly and easily take it off when I get to the end, clear out around the mailbox, put it back on and then head back home.

I think it is a good product with good customer service. I did have to modify the bracket that attaches at the top of the bucket. I also added a safety cable to keep it from "nosediving" if the chain that allows it to follow the terrain comes loose.