Cab for the Kubota

[fatjay]

Chim, that's a nice cab. Mine comes to hte edge of the fenders, but I kept the sides and front/rear strait, to give me extra head room. Not like I'm going to be able to store it any easier by having the top a bit more narrow. Also will give me options for over-head storage

I'm running rubber between the cab mounts and fenders, the bolts will have rubber donut washers to isolate them, but provide isolation. My last tractor I did it's all bolted to the frame, and it's quite noisy. I was hoping to elimininate that this time around. Or at least reduce it.

The interior is 42" wide side to side, and 36" from the seat up, so it should be fairly roomy. What I'm not sure about is covering the holes under hte tractor and to the rear by the 3pt. I'm looking to get dual heaters for it that would mount by the feet that tie in to the coolant system. When I go out to do snow I'm out there for 3-4 hours easily. I'd rather have some heat while I'm out there, but that'll be pointless if I don't cover the holes on the under side.

 

[GPintheMitten]

To cover holes on the underside, consider rubber mats. You can remove the seat temporarily to.make it easier. Semi truck mud flaps would do the trick. Cut to shape.

Also you.might only need one heater. It's a small space.

 

[chim]

...................... What I'm not sure about is covering the holes under hte tractor and to the rear by the 3pt. I'm looking to get dual heaters for it that would mount by the feet that tie in to the coolant system. When I go out to do snow I'm out there for 3-4 hours easily. I'd rather have some heat while I'm out there, but that'll be pointless if I don't cover the holes on the under side.

A piece of cow mat from Tractor Supply is what I used. It was not easy to work with but it created a floor strong enough to carry a couple tool bags and the chute unclogger for the snow blower. A cardboard template was first fitted then used for a pattern.

One heater is more than I need. It makes 20,000 BTUs worth of warmth.

EDIT TO ADD PIC:

 

[fatjay]

I'm glad someone else has the heater. Can you explain how you hooked it up? I understand the principals, but do you just cut the hose before the radiator, then put a return afterwards? Any pictures would be great.

This evening I finished the other front support and went around the fender. Put in the cross support for the roof so it'll be pitched. I must say I'm really jealous of the larger garages. It's on my list to build one, just haven't gotten there yet. Little kerosene heater with a fan did a decent job at heating the garage though.

 

[chim]

Here are some pictures of my heater and connections. The first is taken looking down at the engine. The hose marked A is a factory hose used as the bypass. It must always have flow, so the heater is plumbed with valves that direct flow either through the heater core or bypass it. The hose is roughly in the shape of a 90 degree bend and has different diameters at each end. The larger diameter is 5/8" IIRC. That allowed me to disconnect the hose and rotate it by loosening the bottom connection. An internal type of coupling was then used to connect water through valves to the one side of the heater. The fitting where the factory 90 degree hose was connected was then used to connect the other heater hose (B).

The second photo is of the heater and valves. I bought the heater on line for around $150 late in 2012. The third photo is looking into the area where the connections were made to the bypass.

 

[fatjay]

Thanks for the pictures. I found the hose on mine, have to take the alternator off to do it though. Seems the price is still $150, gonna have to work hard to sell that one to the wife. She's not convinced I need the tractor, let alone the cab, and we just got a bill for $5400 from the emergency room AFTER the insurance...

Today, I tackled a different issue. With the cab on, I couldn't open the hood. So I had to move the cab back an inch. Problem with that is then the steering wheel would be into the windshield. So I had to come up with a different solution. I decided to make the hood open front instead of backwards. Marked and cut the hood right by the front of the gas tank, then permanently mounted the rear piece over the gas tank. Put reinforcing steel under and used two door hinges. I'm going to get some hood struts to put in there, and put a latch on the front. Overall I'm happy with how it came out, gives me a LOT of room to work, too. I'll rewire the lights tomorrow so the travel along the inside of the hood, since the wire comes from the dash anyway.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Even without a heater, you'll like the cabin to keep the wind and snow off you.

 

[fatjay]

Picked up remote start for the tractor. Chinese 2 channel wireless relay for $7 and 2x 50a starter relays for $5 each. One button primes the glow plugs and the second bumps the starter. The relay is press and release with buttons so as soon as I release it stops. Will post pictures of the wiring when they come in. Also picked one up for accessories.

 

[fatjay]

Bought a 4'x8' sheet of 1/4" aluminum for the panels and roof. Bought flasher relay and 9 amber side markers, 2 red tail lights, 3 flood lights, 12v switches, car radio and overhead mount, speakers, wire, plastic E channel(not sure I'll use this for what I want, we'll see).

3 day weekend, hopefully I can get a lot done. Need to get an aluminum cutting blade for the table saw. Roof dimensions are 44"x50".

 

[Bentru]

That 1/4" aluminum and the associated vibration is going to overpower about any radio I can think of. My cab runs about 89 dB inside during operation. If you turn your radio up loud enough to hear it, you are going to be damaging your ears. I use plugs and muffs together and enjoy the quietness.