Calling on Ford 8n experts here - questions

   / Calling on Ford 8n experts here - questions #31  
Deja vue.

I just got done dropping the belly pump and pulling the top cover on my 52 8n. I just parked it back in the barn a few minutes ago. Total working time for disassembly, cleaning, repair , reassembly, adding oil, and testing was about 8.5-9 hours.

Last weekend I went to move some dirt to fill in holes from the rain around the fence, and I was lifting some good 500# scoops of wet dirt.. hit a bump and blew the bottom gasket out of the pump. Found out why.. some time in its life, someone pulled the pump and put it backtogether with no gaskets.. just rtv.... And I found some string in the relief / check valve not letting it seat. That has been a problem with a leak down on my lift since I got it.. but never got around to fixing.

I decided to do the 'correct' repair, and got a new NAA piston, oring and backup washer.. honed my old cylinder ( which was surprisingly good ), resealed the cylinder, adjusted the cam pin, changed out a few cotter pins, and then resealed the pump with the correct paper gaskets, and changed the relief / check valves. Cleaned out the sump with mineral spirits, changes the pto gasket ( also rtv by prev owner ) and changesd out the side cover inspection port gaskets, and top cover gasket.

Wasn't too bad of a job.. just greasy and alot of laying on your back looking up into an empy cast iron cavity with a 65# pump sitting on your chest.. then manhandling that 853 lift cover, and getting the control rod into the valve linkage on the pump. Result was a nice new lift, that has now been holding up a stack of old tires and a rim for an hour or so.. and has shown no signs of creeping down. A very good feeling after quite a full days work. While I was in, I inspected the diffy ring gear.. looked great.. rivits are tight and no metal chips!

Soundguy
 
   / Calling on Ford 8n experts here - questions #32  
well, that is great.

I love the simplicity of the older tractors.

Did you knot know that RTV replaces all gaskets? NOT.

I just did a TO 35 that had the old style pump in it, and the old guy that had it had been using hypoid for years. The pump was SHOT. Can't get the old style pumps any more. We put a new style in the belly and no lift. Did some farting around with the follower settings and repositioned the follower disk and it works fine.

It is very satisfying to have the lift stay up after you turn the engine off as you point out.

What some people do, well, it just makes me think.

Dane
 
   / Calling on Ford 8n experts here - questions #33  
Wal Mart has 80/90 gl-5 Is this good, bad or ?? I am running it now. Should I dump it or just whatt? I didn't realize this was a big problem.
 
   / Calling on Ford 8n experts here - questions #34  
I'm not sure about the prices at your wallmart.. but at my wallmart, the 80w90 gl-5 oil is 27 bucks for a 5 gallon pail, and the 90wt gl-1 oil is 17 bucks a 5 gallon pail.... and gl-1 isn't damaging to yellow metal. ( universal transdraulic oil - nh 134d equivalent, is also 17 bucks a 5 gallon pail at my wallmart. ).

Well.. it's your tractor.. but it is known that gl-5 addatives do damage yellow metal.. albiet very slowly.

Penzoil ( i believe ). Has a listing of some oil info, and specifically talks about this.. and markets an oil up that you can use instead of the common gl-5 oils that does not attack yellow metal.

In most cases a gl-1 90wt oil is cheaper or at least the same price as a gl-5 oil. Seems the best choice is the gl-1 oil.

There are -no- new replacement parts for the scotch yoke piston pump in the belly of the 9n, 2n, and the 8n. The pump inards are all yellow metal.. specifically the 2 cam blocks which rotate around the pto shaft, plus some bushings.. etc.... the only way you get pump cam blocks is from salvage machines... Considering gl-5 oils -will- attack those cam blocks ( and every yellow metal bushing in the rear end, pump, and tranny).. I would switch to a gl-1 oil... just my .02$ worth of advice..

Soundguy
 
 
Top