Case 310G Dozer - Rebuild/Repair Project and Questions

[Sonny580]

Dont worry bout not seeing the marks on the flywheel----there are none on them!! I have the 188 in my old 580 ck and the pump is junk on it too. I have the valves up just like you and no marks on the flywheel. I am going to just yank the pump off at this point and go from there.

 

[rtimgray]

I had a little time today and decided to dig into the engine a little bit more.

I removed the oil pan - no surprises there. There was nothing in pieces or any sign of metal in the oil that was left in there (maybe a cup full).

I removed the rocker arms, shaft and brackets, then I started removing the nuts that hold the head on. I thought I had them all, but I discovered that there was also a bolt with a hole through it that is behind the water pump (had to remove the water pump to get to it.

After that, I made my first discovery of what might be wrong - both of the push rods for cylinder number 4 were bent. Almost exactly the same amount. All of the other push rods were straight.

Then I got the head off and had a look at the cylinders. Cylinder number 4 (with the bent push rods) had diesel fuel and/or a little oil in it, whereas all of the other cylinders were bone dry. I'm assuming that this was my dead cylinder and what may have been causing the knock.

As far as next steps from here, I guess I will work on removing the pistons and then remove the rest of the covers and gears from the engine so I can get to the crankshaft and see if there's any damage there.

Unfortunately, I'm probably going to be taking a break from this project for a while because I have to start working on cleaning out fencelines which is, for me, primarily a winter time activity. Whenever it's too rainy, I'll get back to this project and try to keep moving it along.

Thanks.

 

[Sonny580]

sounds like you found the problem! keep us up to date when you get back on it!

 

[rtimgray]

Well - good news and bad news. It was a bit rainy, so I had more time to work on the engine.

I rolled the engine over to start removing the pistons and there it was - the connecting rod for the No. 4 cylinder was broken, and the bearings were gone (and nowhere to be found inside the engine so far. There was, of course, some damage to the crankshaft, so the next order of business, at least as far as that's concerned, will be to finish getting the crank out so I can take it to a machine shop to see if it can be ground down or not. I know that as I've looked a rebuild kits, a lot of them have options for oversized crankshaft bearings.

The bottom of the No. 4 piston was damaged as well, but I didn't see any other damage to the inside the block. All of the other cylinders came out pretty easily, but that one was stuck a little bit more.

I carried on and removed the oil pick up and oil pump (there was only one shim between the oil pump on the bearing block). I also got the crankshaft nut and crankshaft pulley off. I noticed on the pulley (before I pulled it off) that it has been pulled at some time in the past, because there were two bent spots on the rear rim of the pulley. I used a puller and it came off relatively easily. The shaft surface for the front seal looks to be in good shape.

The valves on the No. 4 cylinder were also pretty sticky - especially the exhaust valve. I don't know if the valve stuck, then the piston hit it and broke the connecting rod or if there was a different chain of events. Who knows..

At any rate, I've at least discovered why the engine was knocking. Now all I've got to do it finish fixing everything and replace all the broken parts and put it back together.

Piece of cake, right?

This will probably become a lengthy process (because I'm going to have to roll some pennies to pay for all of this), but I would rather take the time and spend the money to get it right this time and end up with a solid dozer rather than rush through it and mess something up worse.

I appreciate any thoughts and advice anyone has. Anything in particular to be aware of regarding having a crankshaft ground or having a valve job done on a cylinder head?

Thanks.

 

[AllDodge]

Diesel engine hardly ever gets bored, its reselved to original size or bored and inserts reinstalled. So far as head, crank and rods, they are all done like a auto shop would do.

If block is intact your half way there

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I told you in my first post, they are rod throwers!!!

Time to retire that POS and buy a used 207 to put in it's place!

NEXT time it pitches the rod, it just may go through the block!!!

SR

 

[Sonny580]

I never had any problems with the 188's case used, BUT the one IH used in 2504's ate rod bearings kinda bad.

 

[rtimgray]

I tried to contacted a machine shop that works on ag/industrial equipment (as well as cars) and the machinist said that he could evaluate the crank for $25, so once I get it out, I'm taking it and the head to him go get them checked out.

In the meantime, I received the Case service manual that I ordered to help me out with this. It's about 1,000 pages and it looks like it covers most everything. I think it will end up being worth the money. First order of business with it will be to scan it so I can print as many copies of a particular section (so I can get them dirty and greasy without worry). I've messed up too many manuals in the past thinking that I could keep them clean while wrenching on things.

Thanks.

 

[rtimgray]

Well, it's been a while since I got anything productive done on this project, but I do have a bit of an update (I spent most of the winter chainsawing and cleaning out fence lines while it was cold and wet).

I finally finished stripping the block, getting the crankshaft and camshaft out. I think that I'm going to end up taking the crank, cam, head and block all to the machines shop so he can check them all out and replace the sleeves as well (he will replace them cheaper than I can buy the puller).

I'm planning on sending the pump and injectors out for rebuild shortly. In the meantime, I'm going to turn my attention to the rest of the tractor and work on fixing some other things that are a bit worn and damaged, and giving it a thorough cleaning and possible re-paint job.

Any tips on proper paint prep? All I've ever done in the past is wire wheel/sanding and then prime and pain. Usually with decent results, but I'm by no means a painter.

I'll try to post a few more updates as I go along.

Thanks again for the all the advice.

 

[rtimgray]

Oh, and as a complete aside - if anyone needs a .PDF copy of a 310 manual, I scanned all of mine in sections so I can re-print as I need so I don't get grease all over the originals. If you need something, let me know and I can send it to you.

Thanks.