Case 580 Hydraulic Cylinder seal replacement

[wdchyd]

It might be easier to remove the cylinder and work on this at home.

Big sockets are always handy to have around heavy equipment......make sure you have a RUGGED vise/bench to take these apart......

if not loosen up stuff on the machine, it sometimes helps...:thumbsup:

 

[crazyal]

I just use a large pipe wrench, either a 3' or 4'. It puts some teeth marks on the gland nut but never had a problem removing one no matter how rusty or stuck on. I usually break it free while they are still on the machine. If possible I try to get the cylinder tilted in a way so any oil in the housing can't leak out that way I only have to remove the rod side side of the cylinder.

 

[MikeD74T]

Caver, I made a spanner with 2 pieces of flat stock bolted into a V with 5/16 bolts on the ends for pins. $81 + shipping is a lot for a seldom used tool. The gland should come out easily. I've never needed a big wrench for gland removal, & certainly never needed heat. Did one last week on a '67 580 that was original seal, or fragments thereof. The bolt on the piston end will need a big wrench & may need heat. MikeD74T

 

[caver]

Thanks Mike, I too was thinking of making my own tool.

 

[ScottAR]

Been busy for a few days... The OTC1266 is the one I have and it works fine. Getting the gland off the cylinder isn't so bad. Take a smallish ball pein or shop hammer and tap on the cylinder tube about in overlaping lines about as far as you think the gland screws in. 3-4 inches on the ones I've done. Go all the way around the tube as best you can. Should come off somewhat easy. All the bolts on the piston ends have loctite on em. Take the nylon wear rings off and heat the bolt hot. Most any torch will do. I usually use a plumbers torch. I repaired the last cylinder in the field. JUst stuck the pin back through the rod end to hold it still. Keep asking questions till ya get it. I could also be bribed with food since your pretty close by.

 

[hatch789]

Hi Guys,

I'm in Hershey, PA and looking to do about 6 of these buggers on a 580C I bought. I have already repaired the master cylinders, ripped out the console to re-wire everything, put a new alternator in and changed out every filter but the fuel filters. Doing fuel filters last. I have never done hydraulic cylinder repacking so this is going to be new to me. I have large wrenches for the nuts inside on the rod ends, and I have ordered a nice gland nut wrench that should be here Friday. I would love it if someone (who has experience with this) would be near me and willing to help. I am happy to provide beer and food and my GF bakes so she has treats to offer as well.

If no one is near me, I'll just try to do this on my own. In each case I'm probably going to have to leave the cylinder on the machine. I don't have a vise big enough to do this stuff "out" of the machine.

 

[DJ54]

I took the one loader dump cylinder I had leaking to a hydraulic shop, and had it rebuilt. After jarring my eye teeth more than several times trying to get the gland nut out, because of the gland nut wrench slipping out, I decided to take it to someone with the proper set up to work on them. Cost was $75. Seal kit from Case was around $35 + tax. So I figured it was worth the -$40 to have them do it, plus get a guarantee.

IIRC, the gland nut need to be torqued at around 400 ft. lbs. Before you attempt to take it apart, look for a small, about 1/8" or so, machine, or sheet metal screw, that locks the gland nut in place at the seam where it meets the barrel of the cylinder.