Chains instead of a top link for bush hog?

[beppington]

When mowing thru a dip the chain will relax & allow the hog's tail to rise, following the dip nicely. So, in a dip a chain shouldn't be needed since it's doing nothing.

When mowing over a hill/ peak, the chain will hold the hog's tail up in the air, causing it to not cut some material, not as short anyway. So ... on a peak a chain shouldn't be needed either.

Seems to me that Eddie's right that a chain shouldn't be needed at all ... except to raise the tail of the hog off the ground for traveling.

What are we missing?

 

[aczlan]

Seems to me that Eddie's right that a chain shouldn't be needed at all ... except to raise the tail of the hog off the ground for traveling.
What are we missing?

I have had to use it to pick up the whole hog to get it off of the rock/log/dirtpile that I didn't see which is now beating the snot out of the blades.
Also, if you are backing into a brush pile/thicket it is nice to raise the whole hog and lower it slowly to chop up the brush a little at a time. Almost impossible to do that without lifting the tailwheel.

Aaron Z

 

[Rockgod]

When mowing thru a dip the chain will relax & allow the hog's tail to rise, following the dip nicely. So, in a dip a chain shouldn't be needed since it's doing nothing.

When mowing over a hill/ peak, the chain will hold the hog's tail up in the air, causing it to not cut some material, not as short anyway. So ... on a peak a chain shouldn't be needed either.

Seems to me that Eddie's right that a chain shouldn't be needed at all ... except to raise the tail of the hog off the ground for traveling.

What are we missing?

I just opened up a thread on bending the lift arms on my RC. Wonder if chains would have prevented this? Allowing for a little more movement.

 

[TripleR]

The slotted link helps follow the contours of our property and the hydraulic top-link helps also.

We also use a pull type, but without the ability to adjust height via hydraulics, we get scalping.

 

[LD1]

I just opened up a thread on bending the lift arms on my RC. Wonder if chains would have prevented this? Allowing for a little more movement.

I just looked at your pics in your other thread, And I do think chains would have helped. The chains would ahve allowed JUST the tailwheel to float up over the obstruction, instead of trying to force the WHOLE cutter to raise up over it, which can sometimes create a bind.

 

[beppington]

Also, if you are backing into a brush pile/thicket it is nice to raise the whole hog and lower it slowly to chop up the brush a little at a time. Almost impossible to do that without lifting the tailwheel.

Holy cow! I had forgotten that I do the same thing sometimes - Lift it, back into a spot & slowly lower it. Good for when I don't know what all is in there, or to try to cut something borderline too big.

 

[JohnK454]

Another item to consider when not running a solid top-link - the PTO shaft.

Excessive shaft angles are very hard on U-joints. Dealt with this on Jeep lifted CJs.

Also want to make sure the PTO shaft can compress/extend enough to compensate for the range of travel.

Also - if using NO toplink/chain, going over a sharp ridge can potentially cause the spinning PTO shaft to hit the leading edge of the mower deck and perhaps bending it. If you forget and try to lift the mower with the 3pt, the same effect can occur.

 

[RoyJackson]

most new mowers have a flex link or slotted connection point to allow for that.

soundguy

Yep, I have the flex link (I'm assuming you mean that "U" shaped bracket at the implement's upper connection), but even they can be a limiting factor at an abrupt transition such as the top and bottom of a ditch.
BTW, I use a standard upper link piece...I'm just adding one limitation of those links used with a flex or slotted implement link.

 

[greg_g]

Wonder if chains would have prevented this? Allowing for a little more movement.

Maybe, but it's not the technically correct solution. What I saw in your photos is another case that could have been avoided with a floating toplink bracket (FTB). Either your model didn't come with one, or it got lost/thrown away over the years. When the top of the A-frame is permitted to float, there is never any pushing force on the lift straps. Or the A-frame itself for that matter. When set properly, a FTB compensates for all reasonable rise and fall of the tail wheel. All the force that destroyed your A-frame (and bends other folks lift straps) is negated by the pivoting of the FTB.

The operation of a FTB is simple. For transport of the mower, tighten the toplink to its shortest possible length. This gives your tractor the best lift angle to pick up and carry. Once you get to where you're going to mow, lengthen the toplink enough to move the FTB about 90 degrees. Set the mowing height with the lift arms, and mow away. When the nose of the tractor rises and falls, the pivoting FTB compensate - keeping the mower level (and the tail wheel on the ground).

//greg//

 

[EddieWalker]

It simply just allows the mower to follow the terrain better.

With a ridgid setup, the mower cannot change angles. It follows the angle of the tractor.

With chains, the angle of the mower can move independently from the tractor. Allowing the mower to maintain a more even cut on rolling terrain.

I really can explain it any better than that. Its just one of them things that unless you have never used a mower with chains, it is hard to understand.

I'm not sure where a ridgid setup came into play. Did older top links not have a way to loosen them? I run with my very loose, but tight enough that I can still lift my mower. With it loose, my mower follows the contour of the ground just like the chains do.

What I'm confused about is why replace the top link or anything else with a chain that doesn't adjust or tighten up as easily at the top link does?

Eddie