Chainsaw Husq vs Stihl

[ScottAR]

I own a stihl and use stihl chains on it. The stihl vs husky thing for me is a non issue. I just like the stihl dealer here and I don't care for the husky dealer. Husky makes a fine saw.

I do believe stihl chain to be the best I've used. They seem to stay sharp longer than the other brands I've used Oregon included.

 

[hayden]

I've had great results with the Stihl RS (Rapid Super) chains (on Huskys). Just be aware that they don't have the low-kickback ratings and other safety features of lesser chains so you need to be more careful about kickback and safety in general. But boy do they cut. There are a few standard dimensions for chains, so you can get pretty much anybody's chain in the correct size to fit anybody's saw.

According to the service manual the 55 does not have an adjustable oiler.

 

[Dargo]

I just sold my Husqvarna 575xp with a 24" bar. It just really didn't work as well as my Stihl MS-440 that has a 25" bar. I'm told that some Stihl models are US made, and some are German made; I don't know. Right on the back of both Stihl saws I have, the MS-440 and the 029, they both say boldly "Made in Germany".

Anyway, in quite a bit of heavy cutting, I just feel that the Stihl saws do a better job. That annoys the heck out of my good friend who owns a Husky dealership. He has tuned, replaced bars, replaced chains etc., to get my Husqvarna saw running at peak performance. Feel free to disagree, but in hard use on large lumber, the Stihl saws just seemed to have more power, stay sharper longer, have a more durable bar, and were a little more comfortable to operate. Believe me though, they all get very heavy after a short period of time!!

I have just stayed with all German made Stihl bars and chains to go with my saws. My step father borrowed my 029 and ruined a chain and bar cutting up utility poles /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif. Believe me, that won't happen again!! Anyway, that is just my opinion after using both saws in fairly hard use.

 

[JimR]

I have a fairly new Husky 55 also. I use an Oregon chisel chain on it. I also have a Stihl 210 for smaller trees and branches. This saw has a Stihl chain on it that I consider to be a POS. This saw I bought just about a year ago like brand new from an ex-homeowner. The saw has never run out of oil and has been maintained properly. The bottom bar edge had a ridge on it this morning. The chain is constantly stretching and dulling out. No, I don't cut dirt or rocks with it. I've cut 3 times more wood with the "55" than the Stihl and the chain and bar on the Husky are fine. My new chain will be determined by the local guy I deal with for chain. Whatever he recommends I am putting on the Stihl this time. The Husky was brand new last fall when I bought the Stihl. So in my opinion this was a pretty good comparison.

 

[hayden]

The Stihl/Husky war will rage forever. Bottom line is that lots and lots of pros use both saws day-in and day-out with great results. Other than getting unlucky and receiving a lemon, you'll likely be happy with either brand. They are both excellent products.

 

[Cottonhawk]

In your opinion, how does Shindaiwa compare to Stihl and Husky? I own a Shindaiwa 488 and it is a one powerful saw.

 

[meledward23]

Well on the Sthil Husky debate which I refuse to acknowledge as I dont want one going here....

To me my Husky always has plenty of power. The acutall engine part is unebatable. I have never had a problem starting and it starts better than the STihls. (That's like comparing a two pull start to a three/four, whoppeeee). Seriously both machines are built great. The chain is the only thing I am curious about.

So the fella (sorry forgot to look back) that uses the sthil chains, do you still use a Husq bar?

 

[Egon]

I am all confused here. The usuall situation.

Seems to me chain and bars come in many different styles, sizes, and usage category. Some are designed for less kickback but cut slower. Others are designed for ripping. Green wood compared to dry wood will make a difference. Frozen wood is also different. The type of wood will make a difference. How sharp you keep your chain and how hot you let it get will make a difference. How much oil the bar is getting is another variable.

The bars are also subjected to a number of variables.

Think I could take a brand new chain and basicly destroy it while cutting in clean wood in less than an hour! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Some different types: web page

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[ShiningSky]

You need to file the guides down.

Use are REAL good flat file and take 3-4 passes. No more than thay. The more clearance between the tooth and guide the more grabbing and kickback you will have. The recommended clearance is .025 or about 1/32" between the top of the tooth and the top of the guide. New chains often dont have enought clearance. They come this way for safety reasons.

So as the tooth wears down through the day you also have to file down the guides. Since the guides dont cut anything they dont wear down like the tooth.

Good saw chains should take a long time to wear out as long as you keep them in the wood and out of the dirt, rocks and metal.

So keep the guides filed down and the saw will always cut.

There are many types of saw chains.

Safety chain which is what comes on most smaller chain saws <24" that are purchased at big box stores. They are designed to be safer and have much less grab and kickback. Personally these are junk chains.

Chisel chain. Which there are many types. Full, Skip, Semi-Skip. These chains really cut well but are much more unforgiving dangerous to use. They have a tremendous about of kickback and grabbing.

Here are another couple of things that should be done to extend the life of the chain and bar.

You should also turn the bar over after every couple of days of sawing. Keeps the bar wearing evenly.

Check the sideway motion of the chain. When the bar guide opens up the chain wobbles more thus it does not cut a well. When the bar has too much side play it then need to be repinched down so that the chain runs true.

I just recently limbed 50 MBF (12 truck loads) with a husqvarna 372 with a 32" bar and the chain is as sharp as it was the day it was new.

Cheers

David

 

[jeffinsgf]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( So the fella (sorry forgot to look back) that uses the sthil chains, do you still use a Husq bar?)</font>

Yes, I do. I have never had a problem with the bar wearing.

ShiningSky had an excellent post, but sort of glossed over a subject that I think is at the heart of this thread. That is, anybody who plans on using a chain saw other than for an occasional fallen limb needs to learn how to file their chain. I file my chain every other tank of fuel, and my friend that sells and services Logosol chain saw mills calls me lazy. He files his every tank. I was hopeless at filing chain until Rob (from Logosol) sold me a Pferd filing guide and Pferd files. It is really easy to use and easy to learn. It addresses the point that ShiningSky was making, as well. The chip limiter in front of the cutting tooth has to be filed down along with the tooth. When you take a chain in to be sharpened, most places grind the tooth with a high speed grinder, take off 5 times more steel than they need to, and don't do a thing to the chip limiter. So the tooth is sharp, but the chain won't cut well because the chip limiter is sticking up above the tooth edge instead of just barely below it.

The Pferd filing guide holds two files, one round for the the tooth and one flat for the limiter. It has a guide to get you started at the right angle and you cut down the limiter and the tooth at the same time. If you do it every tank of fuel, three strokes on each tooth will keep your chain cutting perfectly all the time. If you do it every other tank and you're not so careful about getting close to the ground /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif it will take 5 or 6 strokes on each tooth.

Pferd's Web Site has their complete catalog. Look at the files section, which has a chain saw sub-section. In the USA, Logosol doesn't show these on their site, but I know they carry them. I am sure a call would get you one. At one time Husqvarna had the Pferd private labeled, but I haven't seen it lately. If I remember, the whole set up is around 20 bucks. Best chain saw accessory I every bought.