changed oil and fuel filter, now it won't run

[Lefty7]

I don't get it.

Doing my 400 hr. oil change on the '12 L3940HSTC. Drained oil, replaced drain plugs, refilled w/Rotella 5W-50 ('HD diesel') synth engine oil, NAPA Gold 1311 filter.

Also replaced fuel element. Turned fuel cock off to remove, used new Kubota element, cleaned bowl, replaced all including o-ring, turned fuel cock back on, (straight up). (The element goes in with the opening at the top and the solid end resting on the spring in the bottom of the bowl, right?) Opened air vent and started engine to bleed fuel line - it fired right up beautiful like it does with fresh oil - ran it 30 sec.s and shut it off, then closed air vent.

Went and did lube on FEL and backhoe. When done with that, I started engine. It fired up OK but then rpms came down, and it ran erratically, and eventually stalled out. Checked everything, oil filter is tight, fuel bowl is seated correctly and tight, nothing leaking. The motor re-fired a few more times, and I lifted the throttle a bit, rpms came up briefly but then went down, it ran poorly and stalled out again. During this, I noticed the oil pressure Intellipanel light on, warning me, supposedly, of low oil pressure - it beeped at me a couple of times to alert me. Huh? Checked dipstick again, it's got all the nice new oil it's supposed to have, at the right level. Now the thing won't even start, just getting a few chugs out of it while I'm leaning on the starter. Decided to come on here and post this before I burn that up.

How can I have a low oil pressure idiot light when it's loaded with all new oil?

The way it runs - or doesn't - reminds me of one time when I forgot to turn the fuel cock back on, and it starved for fuel. (There's plenty in it.)

Trying to do the scheduled maintenance and be ready for the lousy weather. Now it won't run at all. WTF is happening here?

Lefty7

 

[George2615]

Also replaced fuel element. Turned fuel cock off to remove, used new Kubota element, cleaned bowl, replaced all including o-ring, turned fuel cock back on, (straight up). (The element goes in with the opening at the top and the solid end resting on the spring in the bottom of the bowl, right?) Opened air vent and started engine to bleed fuel line - it fired right up beautiful like it does with fresh oil - ran it 30 sec.s and shut it off, then closed air vent.

Lefty7

Just a thought but should you have closed the air vent before you shut it off? Maybe doing it after let some air back in the fuel system. Symptoms you describe sound like air in fuel lines to me.

 

[s219]

30 sec isn't a lot of time to purge a new fuel filter in my opinion. I would have run it longer when bleeding. In that 30 sec, you were probably running on whatever old fuel was downstream of the filter.

I also would have closed the bleeder before shutting off the engine.

 

[Code54]

Also check the oil pressure switch. If the wires got bumped and disconnected (or loose) it maybe sending the fault signal and thus the low pressure warning.
Also may want to follow the diesel air purge cycle for your machine just to make sure that is not the problem. (under changing the fuel filter section normally)
Good luck

 

[DT86]

To me it doesn't sound like it is running long enough to make oil pressure, which is due to air being in the fuel lines.

 

[murphy1244]

To me it doesn't sound like it is running long enough to make oil pressure, which is due to air being in the fuel lines.

:thumbsup:

 

[PHILIP8N]

I agree that it is a fuel issue. I would remove fuel filter, check that it is seated correctly, and bleed air again. However, are you sure that is the correct oil filter? Have you used that oil filter before? Philip.

 

[montelatici]

Come on guys, it has nothing to do with the oil filter, these are diesels and you have to get air out of the fuel delivery system.

 

[timswi]

Come on guys, it has nothing to do with the oil filter, these are diesels and you have to get air out of the fuel delivery system.

That's what it sounds like..My BX has a self bleed, leave the key on for a minute or so (if I remember correctly)..I'm sure the OP has something very similar.

 

[Lefty7]

OK, thanks all. TBN forum makes ya feel not so alone. Thought I was losin' it - but have calmed down.

Just FYI, yeah, that's a correct NAPA oil filter for this - I've used them before, and just had the # rechecked by NAPA to be sure.

I'll follow up on all your comments, but I agree that it's GOT to be related to the fuel issue. So some of you would (or do) shut off the air bleeder while it's still running? It makes sense, but I'm just going by the manual, (although it wouldn't be the first time I noticed something in there that's either questionable or wrong). Manual says:

"Bleeding procedure is as follows:
1.Fill the fuel tank with fuel, and open the fuel cock.
2.Open the air vent cock on the fuel injection pump.
3.Start the engine and run for about 30 seconds, and then stop the engine.
4.Close the air vent cock.
IMPORTANT: Always close the air vent cock except for bleeding fuel lines. Otherwise, engine runs irregularly or stalls frequently."

So I was following their procedure.

Still, it acts like it not getting fuel. And I can't bleed the air out of the line very well without it running. Must be something wrong with my fuel element replacement job - but I can't figure out what, as I've already taken it off and redone it twice, once this issue developed. There's a big o-ring at the top of the plastic bowl, and there appears to be an o-ring on the supply conduit that's running fuel into the opening at the top of the filter element. Both those are in place, and I have been careful not to mess them up.

Well, tomorrow's another day. Obviously, I have to do it again...

Appreciate the help.