changed oil and fuel filter, now it won't run

   / changed oil and fuel filter, now it won't run #21  
A friend of mine (no really, not me ---) runs out of fuel frequently. Instead of bleeding it he just hits it with either and shortly the tractor is running fine. I am sure I will hear this is not a good procedure but it always works for him with no apparent downside. I have never used it on my tractors because I don't let my fuel get that low. Just a thought while we are talking about bleeding fuel lines.

If that works for him that's fine, it's his tractor and he pays for it. I wouldn't do it but that's just my choice.
 
   / changed oil and fuel filter, now it won't run #22  
Ether should not be used on IDI diesel engines, glow plugs, or grid heaters. Bad things do happen. Read up. Philip
 
   / changed oil and fuel filter, now it won't run #23  
Ether should not be used on IDI diesel engines, glow plugs, or grid heaters. Bad things do happen. Read up. Philip

I wouldn't use it on IDI or DI engines that have glow plugs or grid heaters. You're right very bad things can happen.
 
   / changed oil and fuel filter, now it won't run #24  
I know I'm a bit late to the ballgame but couldn't you put diesel fuel in a windex bottle and spray that in like ether.......until it primed?
 
   / changed oil and fuel filter, now it won't run #25  
OK, thanks all. TBN forum makes ya feel not so alone. Thought I was losin' it - but have calmed down.

Just FYI, yeah, that's a correct NAPA oil filter for this - I've used them before, and just had the # rechecked by NAPA to be sure.

I'll follow up on all your comments, but I agree that it's GOT to be related to the fuel issue. So some of you would (or do) shut off the air bleeder while it's still running? It makes sense, but I'm just going by the manual, (although it wouldn't be the first time I noticed something in there that's either questionable or wrong). Manual says:

"Bleeding procedure is as follows:
1.Fill the fuel tank with fuel, and open the fuel cock.
2.Open the air vent cock on the fuel injection pump.
3.Start the engine and run for about 30 seconds, and then stop the engine.
4.Close the air vent cock.
IMPORTANT: Always close the air vent cock except for bleeding fuel lines. Otherwise, engine runs irregularly or stalls frequently."

So I was following their procedure.

Still, it acts like it not getting fuel. And I can't bleed the air out of the line very well without it running. Must be something wrong with my fuel element replacement job - but I can't figure out what, as I've already taken it off and redone it twice, once this issue developed. There's a big o-ring at the top of the plastic bowl, and there appears to be an o-ring on the supply conduit that's running fuel into the opening at the top of the filter element. Both those are in place, and I have been careful not to mess them up.

Well, tomorrow's another day. Obviously, I have to do it again...

Appreciate the help.
just something i ran into similar and just passing in on to you.; I to had problems similar and i should have caught it i did not change the small oring inside the filter i did the large one. finally figured out it was dry and cracked and was sucking air took it apart for the third time bled everything out and got it running
 
 
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