boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
- Messages
- 3,824
- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
Wow Ryan, you bring new light to tractor shifting. I am trying to assess comparisons on my property hill wise because I haven't confronted the problems you associate to a geared tractor. I do have a long hill at maybe a 50% incline but never have I "rolled back" in between shifting. I always brake when clutching on this type of terrain. I'm wondering if tractor size has something to do with this where more weight on a larger tractor would initiate more inertial forces?. Not sure but it does bring to light what I have been saying all along about "variables" with all the questions people ask here for trying to get comparisons. Whether the question comes to "what size tractor should I get?" or "should i get industrials or ags?" "whada ya think about hydros over geared?". That's why it's important for everyone to bring to light their particular experiences as it begins to divulge "particulars" to help the op making decisions.
"roll back is not the issue" it is the "rolling forward faster" and while clutch is in, the finish mower doesn't have power and going down hill
with a riding lawn mower, what might only roll 2 feet between shifting between gears while the clutch is in. for me, it may mean 5 feet to switch gears and let clutch out that i travel down the hill
note 1 second or less to shift gears on riding lawn mower, 1 second or less to shift gears on this CA tractor) same amount of time to shift but traveling faster. that extra 3 feet can be enough to stop the finishing mower blades from spinning, and stop cutting grass, till the clutch is released.
a independent PTO setup. would not have an issue what so ever. with above. due to power would always be going to the mower deck while i was shifting gears.
1950ish allis chalmers CA tractor with belly mower ran off of PTO, 4 gears plus reverse,
===4th gear (road gear) i think is 15MPH on flat land, (no power, purely road gear, no mowing, nothing being pulled)
===3rd i would gess more like 5 to 7 mph, ((prefered mowing gear))
===2nd 2 to 3 MPH ((not able to keep up with mowing and it gets away from me)) (discing)
===1st (area went straight to weeds on me, 8 inches plus high) (2 bottom plow, discing)
am most likely completely wrong with mph with above....
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i had some other stuff typed up, but hit wrong ctrl A, ctrl C, and CTRL X buttons and highlighted wrong and ended up deleted what i had typed up :/ ctrl Z won't bring it back...
the jeest of it, is manual transmission on a hill, or in ruts, or uneven terrian, and having to clutch, break, give some throttle to barely inch your way a couple inches to get were you want the tractor to be. while a good operator can take there time to get things aligned, there is a higher risk, of rolling into side of a truck, or into a building or into a fence or what not. with a manual transmission,
example ya got something chained up to bottom side of fel, and wanting to load it into back of a truck. and trying to make those final couple inches.
example custom boom made for FEL (front end loader) to lift up metal sheets for to roof a metal shed/ pole barn. and trying to inch the wheels through some ruts and bumps up next to shed, so folks on the roof can grab ahold of the sheets and pull them off the custom boom.
example in a fenced in garden, with a 3pt tiller attached, and already went through garden once, then it rained, and trying to get tires to inch there way through uneven ground, that tires are already sinking some. trying to get right up next to the fence.
example cleaning up the snow, using FEL to get right up next to shed door,
example cleaning up the snow, inching backwards to get rear blade right up next to shed door, (less shoveling ya have to do)
example backing up to a trailer, to hitch it up, let alone trying to backup to a 3pt attachment, without telescopic arms (pat's easy hitch) and implement and tractor are out in the dirt, heck even on concrete.
example backing up or moving forward just an inch to better align a hole while you are PHD, and listening to what the spotter denotes.
it is the uneven terrain, hills, bumps, ruts, snow, ice, mud, and not being able to get perfectly lined up and trying to make those very small moves, from being 1 inch to shy to being 1 inch much = very costly repairs (1000 plus bucks) if ya run into something. that i hate manual transmissions.
SCUTS (sub compact tractors) kubota more so, has funky setups for there clutching, brake, gas/throttle peddals and levers, requiring you to either have 3 feet or 3 arms, to get some things done or living with it and just trying to get around the issue. larger tractors, generally have a much better layout of controls seperating things, so when the times come, you have both feet busy and both hands busy, but never the need to move a leg over to other side to operate say a clutch and brake peddel at the same time. or a fel/3pt lever here, but being able to use shuttle shift with other hand.
yes mowing is easy, as long as you are going in one general direction everything is easy, it is those odd ball jobs, and trying to make use of every last little inch, so you can reduce that manual labor.
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have you ever placed a temp gauge on pulling vehicle that ya use to pull heavy trailers around with? you might be surprised how hot a transmission can get, and some simple easy adjustments of different gears and MPH you are going to keep transmission cool. its the same thing for tractors. but for tractors its not the trailers that are heavily load down, its the box blading, rear blade, plowing, discing, etc..in to high of a gear. while yes the implement might be doing an excellent job of what ever you are doing. but the transmission can be taking a beating.
the simple lets see if i can pull this log / down tree. *ughs* no moving, lets try another gear. *ughs* not moving. ok thats one issue, and might cause damage more so if you get a running start that can cause damage.
but its the longer runs, in to high of a gear, that can cause issues for a transmission if relief valves are kicking in for say a hydrostatic transmission, or you are causing the engine to get near point it wants to stall out in a manual transmission,
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test driving a unit....
ya wide open on straight ground, ya what ever....
get those front tires up on a hill of dirt. and come to a dead stop put tractor in neutral, and then see if you can just move an inch up the hill.
if tractor has a fel, dig some dirt first to make it a fresh unpack portion of dirt and then do above.
reverse the tractor and do same thing but backwards, can you get that tractor to move only 1 inch or 2 inches to exact same spot. without the tractor moving 3 inchs further up the hill or back down the hill... those 3 inches could be side of a pickup truck or side of a building (your home or shed) to mower deck getting hung up on some fancy edging for flower beds or like.
run up into the hill of fresh dirt that ya mixed around with the FEL, to make some ruts. drive up into the ruts at a different angle some and see if you can adjust the position of tractor 1" that way or this way. "harder said than done" on some machines.