cold weather help!!!!

[DANOCHEESE]

Put a VOM Volt Ohm Meter on the battery. Turn on the glow plugs. You should see a drop in voltage when the glow plugs are initiated.

 

[rayikeo2]

On my 1700 I have to hold the key counter clockwise for a full 30 seconds to get the glow indicater to show a glow. I usually do this with the throttle closed, then I open the throttle to a position that would keep the RPM around 1500 (about half way) and heat the glow plug for another 10-15 seconds. After that it will start right up normaly. Try that.

 

[Doc_Bob]

I wouldn't say turns over briskly, but steadily.

As long as it turns over as well in cold weather as it does in warm weather.
If it is noticeably slower in cold weather when compared to warm weather, than the state of charge of the battery and oil viscosity might be one place to look.
Bob

 

[JB4310]

Since no one mentioned it yet, Block heater!! made a world of difference for me (lower radiator heater actually) $30. 1/2 hr install.
Anything is gonna crank noticeably slower in low, low temps even with a brand new battery IMO, unless all my equipment is need of a charge/maintenance, which is possible

 

[dqdave1]

If no indacator light; check fuses. Could be key switch; you turn key to position just before start and hold till light goes out; correct/ then start. Could be bad position on start switch. Could be glow plug timer also. Time to get out meter and flow current to where it stops; that should be your problem area. If you have current to glow plugs then I would suggest glow pplugs bad . ( cannot believe all glow plugs are bad.) You should have a wire connected to a so called buss bar that connects all three glow plugs together . Check for current there at terminal.

Changing to 5w- 30 synthetic oil will make a big difference on starting in cold weather.

Make sure your ground wire at frame is clean. Clean all battery terminals so they are shining and not dull or black. Make sure cables are in good condition; if battery cable ends have been replaced with aftermaket ends; throw them away and get new cables.

 

[Doc_Bob]

Anything is gonna crank noticeably slower in low, low temps even with a brand new battery IMO, unless all my equipment is need of a charge/maintenance, which is possible

My TN70A is a bit slower, but not noticeably. Batteries take a real beating when not charged in cold weather. I always have a trickle charger on mine. If I don't, then my TN70A cranks sloooooowly. Battery is the key to a good start, no charger makes starting much worse. Next is oil viscosity. If those two are not fixed, the rest does not matter.

Bob

 

[johnnylight]

My TN70A is a bit slower, but not noticeably. Batteries take a real beating when not charged in cold weather. I always have a trickle charger on mine. If I don't, then my TN70A cranks sloooooowly. Battery is the key to a good start, no charger makes starting much worse. Next is oil viscosity. If those two are not fixed, the rest does not matter.

Bob

I agree with Doc_Bob
and like JB4310 for our cold conditions a block heater would def be a plus.
If you have a garage kick the car/truck out and get her inside.

 

[Thumper & Buttercup]

Speaking of a garage, we have an unheated
Morton building, the outside temp was about
-2 to 2 degrees but inside the Morton building
it was 18 to 20 degrees. A building makes a
big difference even if it's unheated.

 

[Doc_Bob]

Speaking of a garage, we have an unheated
Morton building, the outside temp was about
-2 to 2 degrees but inside the Morton building
it was 18 to 20 degrees. A building makes a
big difference even if it's unheated.

Same here. Just the solar gain from the few windows on a sunny day make it warmer.
Bob

 

[Reg]

Compression ignition engines NEED cranking speed.
You can't get away with that old gas engine cranking phenomenon where it almost stops from a flattened battery and then springs to life just as one cylinder gets just the right air/fuel/spark combination.