Colvert???

[DVerbarg]

Harv,

Regarding why it is important to connect the pipes:

If the pipes are not joined together you will end up with a "blow hole" (what the locals call them). The blow hole is what is created when water erodes the dirt where the two pipes join. As the dirt is eroded, assuming that there is fill on top of the join, it will continue to fall into the small crack at the join and will eventually end up with a hole at the surface. These blow holes can develop very quickly during a rainy season and the only way to fix them is to dig up the pipe and add the proper connection pipe. Every spring and fall the farmers in this area can be seen out in the fields fixing this very problem with the drain tile in the ground. Drain tile has the additional problem of the dirt that came from the blow hole accumulating in the drain tile and inhibiting or totally blocking the flow of water. This typically does not occur with a culvert because of the short length and water flow.

DavidV

 

[Harv]

DavidV -

I guess I was thinking that by facing the inflow of the culvert with sufficient stone that erosion wouldn't be a serious threat. You have convinced me that it's worth the small cost and extra effort to tie the pipes together.

I'd rather leave the blow holes to the great white whales. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Anonymous Poster]

2 years ago I installed 120' of 4' smooth wall plastic pipe. This is the main spillway for my pond. I had 2 30" metal pipes but the beavers keep blocking them and they were starting to rust through. The plastic pipe is under my drive and seems to be doing well. We did have some problem installing the stuff, we couldn't seem to get the dirt packed around the bottom of the pipe. We had all the pipe in place but had only covered the first section. The water keep tunneling under the pipe. We finally poured a 8' wide x 8' deep concrete collar around the top end and that took care of the problem. Since it's a smooth wall pipe set running down hill the kids have found it makes a great water slide.

 

[gordon]

Harv thanks for the links here is one that covers roadways and goes into some about ditching and grading.http://www.ruralhometech.com/fr/index.htmHope this helps
Gordon

 

[PBMAX]

OOOPS!!! I new I forgot somthing it's a 12" metal pipe...Thought about it later while I was out sight seeing----AA working....Been out for 1 1/2 weeks since I posted the question so ya'll gemie time to catch up...Thanks for all the help up front....BTW they started digging my basement,hit sandstone at 2' ouch.....Forman thinks he might can diggit with a track hoe but if not we may need to blast a couple of times...Guess thats one way to move into the nay-bur-hood with a bang....I better get reading see ya'll

Colvert was a fat finger thing....Was here at the office and my net time is short......Roy thanks for the answer on Churt....
Lil' Paul

Laziness is the Father of invention.../w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by PBurns on 9/19/00 12:35 PM.</FONT></P>

 

[PBMAX]

I considered the plastic pipe but the county wants metal...so I got metal...The pipe will actually lay in the county's ditch so ya know how it is...The ditch is about 3' below the lawn so I put the pipe in and pushed dirt over it temperarely <--is that a word...for direct access...unfortunatley the pipe is shallow in the ditch...and 12" of cover plus concrete would be more than I would like...It would put an arch on the drive making it difficult to turn into and I could not digg out the ditch if I wanted to the bottom is solid rock...The county recommended the ovel pipe (METAL) but in my area every one was waiting on a shippment so I bought what was available...Might want to use what I have some place else and buy the other...Next how do you join to metal pipes...??? my local co-op sales angled end pieces but no one has any thing to couple with....locally...the "Blow-hole" as some one mentioned is some of the reason I asked...I thought about cutting a piece off one end with something and using screws to attach the 2 pieces, then put tar or something over it...would rather not though...Starting to wish I'd gone plastic..../w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

Lil' Paul

Laziness is the Father of invention.../w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[roysallis]

Paul,
I guess things are different in Chilton county. When I needed a culvert I went by the county highway department and paid them ($230.00) for an 18" x 30' corrugated metal pipe. They installed it and it is level from the road to my driveway. They did all the work.
Roy

 

[Bird]

Up until this past year, in our county, and I understand others, if you needed a culvert, you went to the county and paid for the pipe and they delivered it. Then if it was on a county maintained road, they installed it, covered it, etc. and if you lived on a state maintained road, after the county delivered the pipe, the state crew came and installed it. No charge for installation either way, but I saw in the news media that the state, at least, was discontinuing that practice, since they were doing it for free in some counties and not others. So I think now, the state or county will tell you what size has to be used, and the property owner has to pay for it.

Bird

 

[scruffy]

PBurns, you use a metal 'collar' to join the sections of pipe. I assume you got the corregated steel pipe, if so, then you will need the same size (diameter) of collar to use. It is nothing more than a section of the pipe, sliced at one point with 90 degree brackets bolted to or welded onto, two or more draw bolts run through the flanges or brackets. The collar is spread, slipped over one end of the pipe, and then the other end is slipped into it. The bolts are then tightened down snuggly. Suggest placing brackets to the side at approximately a 30 degree angle from perpendicular. Also, I have used a sealant (such as tar, etc) on the ends of the pipe to prevent the "blow hole" from developing anywhere around the connection. WARNING: If you decide to make your own, be extremely cautious of the toxic fumes generated when cutting galvanized pipe with a torch, or welding said galvanized pipe. Some of our board welders can fill you in on that much better than I can.

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by scruffy on 9/20/00 00:57 AM.</FONT></P>

 

[glennmac]

Roysallis,

How many inches of fill did you put on top of your 48" pipe? Did you run level from bank to bank across the creek, or did you mound up the fill higher than the banks? Can you bend the pipe, or did you have to run it all in a straight line? Do you think you chose the right diameter for your creek and how is it performing?

Glenn