Compact 4WD utility Tractors with Chains on front tires.

[herbertperform]

Depending on the tire type, you can increase rear tire clearance by reversing the wheels, or swapping side to side. If that doesn't add adequate clearance, you can add 2"-4" spacers.
As far as your dealer comments...he's one of the few that OK'd the use of front chains (that I've read on TBN).

I spoke to the head mechanic and the service manager separately and asked them the same chain questions. Both of these guys have been in the John Deere business for a very long time.They told me the front axle is plenty strong enough to handle chains if you don't have them on the rear. I was clearly told my warranty would not be void with the use of chains on the front only.

As far as the rear tires goes, I was told it's not worth the time to flip the tires around because it does not give enough space to make a difference. Spacers would be the only viable option to chain the rears and I hear you need 4" - 6 " spacers per side. Even then, especially if you have a cabbed model you need to keep the rear chains very tight because of the gas tank location and little clearance between the fenders and tires. The chain debate is one where you never get a consistent answer. The technology with 4WD and differentials has changed a great deal which is why you get a large variety of opinions as to where you should and shouldn't have chains installed.

What gets me, is on my 3320, the hydraulic lines are so close to my right rear tire that I can barely get my fingers between the hydraulic lines and the tire. This seems stupid to me. Another engineer hard at work with little common sense for how things work in the real world.

Why doesn't Deere apply a little common sense and make adequate room for chains? What person who owns a tractor does not intend to use chains at some point? Once again another mindless engineer at their finest.

 

[5picker]

I've run chains on all 4 for the last 6 winters.

Mine came from (as someone mentioned) tirechains.com

 

[pat32rf]

I've always been warned by friends NOT to put chains on the front, but I'm told JD sells spacers so you can install front chains. Maybe I'll make up a set for next winter to go with the ones on the rear of my 4300 (with reversed wheels)

 

[jgayman]

As far as the rear tires goes, I was told it's not worth the time to flip the tires around because it does not give enough space to make a difference. Spacers would be the only viable option to chain the rears and I hear you need 4" - 6 " spacers per side. Even then, especially if you have a cabbed model you need to keep the rear chains very tight because of the gas tank location and little clearance between the fenders and tires.

The clearance varies greatly by tractor model. I have a 2720 and run chains on all four tires. I did need to purchase the JD spacers for the front tires but for the rear I changed the tires to the wide position. On the 2720 the wide position made all the difference in the world as far as chain clearance goes.

I agree 100% that I don't understand why JD designs these tractors with the tire clearances so tight. They are tractors, not low riders. It is silly to have the fenders so close to the tires. My old Ford 8N had enough room between the tire and fender that I could stick my head in there.

 

[mmurphydds]

I have a JD 3320 that I just bought last Summer. I have the same issue. I talked to my John Deere dealer and they said many of the John Deere compact tractors with cabs should not have rear chains installed because of clearance problems. Apparently the gas tank and rear fenders are closer to the tire than a non cab model. The hydraulic lines are what concern me. They are too close to the rear tire. Wouldn't want a loose chain hitting them. I have heard of people adding tire spacers for the rear to install chains. For me, I will just install them on the front as my John Deere dealer suggested. I would think this should help steer the tractor much better. I bought some 2 link chains from Tire Chains by TireChains.com and will put them on this week to try out. I think they cost me about $140 with 2 day UPS shipping.

Seriously, guys, listen to yourselves...If you are plowing or blowing snow, and you need the traction...you will not be "chirping" anything, because there is snow on the ground! (which is slippery, otherwise you wouldn't need the traction). If your driveway is so clear and dry, you won't be blowing/plowing and you won't engage 4WD. This is a solution looking for a problem. I sure won't be driving my 4WD down a paved, dry, road--chains or not. Good luck, and I apologize if I'm really missing something obvious....

 

[art]

I've found on my driveway when I clean it where the tractor is the surface is bare or just wet blacktop and concrete so I certainly don't need chains!!!! This is done in float for the loader if that is what I'm using and I also use a snow blower from time to time like now. So why would I want to loose traction and scratch up my blacktop!!! The double ring chains we sell to the farmers are for virgin snow or deep snow travel. On black top we've found that no chains and turf tires work the best. Car type chains seem to work the best on gravel or stone drives.
We have started studding some of the industrial and ag tires although the turf are not able to take them.
They are very smooth on the road and so far seem to be working fine with customer enjoying them.

 

[chin]

Hey buddy, that's not a clutch and brake. its 2 brake pedals down there hahaha

 

[Karl2]

As far as your dealer comments...he's one of the few that OK'd the use of front chains (that I've read on TBN).

Most JD 4x4 CUT's have unsually roomy front wheel clearance provided wires hanging near them are tucked in and no mudguards are installed. But the need for front chains on a CUT is often debated, due to weight distribution issues.