Comparing Mahindra 7520, Kubot M7040, Kioti DK65S

[xxxsandman]

Today I went and set in a New Holland TN75DA. Very nice tractor, didn't start it, but it was well equipped and felt very nice.

Talked to the salesman.

I find it funny that out of the 10 or so dealers I visited in the past week, the local New Holland and Kubota dealers was the ONLY ones to talk the compition down. Kubota went on about how good they was and the resell value sucked on anything but a Kubota, I could sell it for new price in a few years if I wanted he said. I mentioned the possiblity of buying a used Kubota and he said, you might as well buy a new one, they cost about the same.

The New Holland dealer just flat told me they are #1 and there is no 2nd place. There is NO better tractor made, he said. I said great, how much for that TN75DA on your lot. Quote "um, I'll have to figure it up and give you call, what's your number?" I haven't receive a phone call. What the ****? Is he afraid he aint going to make enough off of it, needs to re-run the numbers and see if he can't find something to add? What a way to sell a tractor.

The main point is the Mahindra, Montana, and Kioti dealers did NOT downgrade the competition. They simply stated they think their tractors compare well with the other models I mentioned and pointed out some of the strong selling points of their tractors. So they are either better salesman then the NH and Kubota salesman I dealt with or they are less worried about the competition then the NH and Kubota dealers.

I'm not going to let the poor salesmanship influence my buying decision, rather which dealer I buy from. Just thought I was share my experiences today.

 

[Blksim]

Last year while considering another tractor I looked at the Kubota M7040, NH TN75A standard & the JD 5425. Also looked at the Case, it was very close to the NH. I think same company owns both.
The JD was a great looking rig. It had a little more hp than the other two. The NH was a really nice tractor. I looked at it really hard. My neighbor bought one. I settled on the Kubota as I felt it closer met my needs. It was the same physical size as my previous tractor and I knew it would fit in & out of my small buildings. I had three before this one with only minor problems so I went back to orange. Good luck.

 

[john_bud]

Sandman,

Can you do me a favor? After you select and purchase the tractor of your dreams, please send a short letter to the dealerships that gave you short shrift or other unpleasantness. Explain what you heard / felt from the sales staff and how that influenced your decision. Address it to the owner's attention.

Poor sales help is common, but fixable - if the owner knows about it.

jb

 

[rback33]

Yes, that's precisely why I own a Dodge Ram/Cummins rather than a Chevy 3/4 ton / Duramax. The Chevy dealer didn't want to sell us a diesel and spent 20 minutes bsing about how a 1/2 ton would work fine and any vehicle could pull any trailer (his words). I don't think any 1/2 ton is safe pulling a 10,000 lb gooseneck horse trailer, regardless what Toyota Tundra ads may claim.

I had the same issue some time back.... told him I was looking for a 3/4 or one ton for my 10,000lb horse trailer....said they had just the thing out in the far corner and would have someone bring it up... pulled a 1500HD around the corner. I stood there speechless while my wife let him have it pretty good about how there was no way that pickup would safely and efficiently pull our trailer.... He stood there stammering about it would be fine.... we got in the car and left... end of conversation....

 

[SPYDERLK]

Mine has loaded Ags and w BH on as well will push extremely hard. When tree toppling and stumping, you really want to have low wheel speed to limit the revolutions that they slip. 1MPH wheel speed digs 3 times as deep as 1/3MPH would while you play with loader controls, brakes, diff lock, etc. Also, full relief hyd pressure load combined with full traction push will stall 1st gear on mine. Such circumstance puts about 17K# on the ground and pump load will bring the engine down. With creeper it would not.
,,, And Ive bought the metal for a 3/8" X 3 X 8' belly plate. But too much going on to actually do it now. Like u say - finish start is a sequence.
larry

Pardon bringing up this old thread, but I was researching and ran across one of my posts that is incorrect in an important detail.

... I push trees down with the tractor going as slow as it will go. - Thats 800 rpm/low idle in ist gear with bucket at about 10 feet, cutting edge embedded in the tree and lifting as I push. This combination puts tremendous traction weight on the ground and the added HP of the hyd load will stall the tractor ... at idle.

,,, The engine will easily support such load if above 1200 RPM, but groundspeed at 800 is already too fast for this task.
..larry

 

[DavesTractor]

Pardon bringing up this old thread, but I was researching and ran across one of my posts that is incorrect in an important detail.

... I push trees down with the tractor going as slow as it will go. - Thats 800 rpm/low idle in ist gear with bucket at about 10 feet, cutting edge embedded in the tree and lifting as I push. This combination puts tremendous traction weight on the ground and the added HP of the hyd load will stall the tractor ... at idle.

,,, The engine will easily support such load if above 1200 RPM, but groundspeed at 800 is already too fast for this task.
..larry

I'm glad you corrected this, it's been bugging me for 8 years.

By the way, what you are doing is a great way to snap a front axle on a compact tractor, or to bend a bucket tilt cylinder. With the spool centered, there is no load relief for the cylinders and if you are not pushing dead perpendicular to the tree you can put huge pressures to the cylinders. At that point a hose could burst or something breaks. This sort of procedure requires some skill, which you obviously have, to do this without causing damage. Your tractor has the big planetary front axles, so you are pretty strong in that area.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I'm glad you corrected this, it's been bugging me for 8 years.

By the way, what you are doing is a great way to snap a front axle on a compact tractor, or to bend a bucket tilt cylinder. With the spool centered, there is no load relief for the cylinders and if you are not pushing dead perpendicular to the tree you can put huge pressures to the cylinders. At that point a hose could burst or something breaks. This sort of procedure requires some skill, which you obviously have, to do this without causing damage. Your tractor has the big planetary front axles, so you are pretty strong in that area.

The high lift push seems to load the rears proportionately more than the fronts. The big 90% loaded AGs crinkle the sidewalls and the beads seep. no rearend issues.

,,, Upfront, the ujoint on the left half axle has snapped twice, but not from that sort of controlled push. Mostly its that the pre upgrade steering is weak and wont control front wheel direction in extremis. Gotta watch that when nearly standing on its nose and using the torque it can deliver in 2nd or below.

No cyl problems, but Iv had to upgrade all the curl hoses and replace all the drilled and grooved bucket pins with solid. They break at the groove. ... Also, where the loader arms pin to the clevis connection on the quick attach I had to modify those pins to squeeze the joint to prevent the clevis from spreading.
larry