Egon
Epic Contributor
Both give the same yardage?
Concrete drive
- Thread starter nap61
- Start date
Both give the same yardage?
crbr
Veteran Member
What do you plan to use for reinforcement? Fiber is not that. Someone is not speaking the truth to you if they say it is. Fiber is for shrinkage cracking at the surface. Period. It serves no primary reinforcement what-so-ever.
Wire will deteriorate at a rapid pace. Use steel "reinforcement bar" (is it called that for a reason) and place it properly in the concrete (that is what a chair is for).
There is a much better sealing process than a surface sealer, however the freeze-thaw cycles in LA are few.
MikeD74T
Veteran Member
nap61, You're asking for price validation without any details of what's to be done by the contractor. For example I'd pour & finish for labor = concrete price, but who's forming, who's doing site prep, etc?
As for reinforcing, look to genuine experts for that advice. There's tons of published data on the net i.e. http://www.concrete.org/general/fE2-00.pdf?bcsi_scan_3C4285B81B028A97=1.
If you want a quality job educate yourself first & don't scrimp on site prep. Poor concrete on good ground will last longer than good concrete on bad ground. MikeD74T
As for reinforcing, look to genuine experts for that advice. There's tons of published data on the net i.e. http://www.concrete.org/general/fE2-00.pdf?bcsi_scan_3C4285B81B028A97=1.
If you want a quality job educate yourself first & don't scrimp on site prep. Poor concrete on good ground will last longer than good concrete on bad ground. MikeD74T
CurlyDave
Elite Member
I am very dubious about rebar on old brick.
Brick expands and contracts much more than concrete with changes in moisture, and will make the concrete crack. Use real dobies and this will not happen.
Dobies have a second great advantage. They have wires embedded in them to tie to the rebar. I have seen concrete being poured push bricks, pieces of cinderblock, and even pieces of stone out from under the rebar. Not just a small percentage, all of the supports.
I am 100% in favor of real rebar. Mat is hard to use, not particularly strong, and very hard to center in the concrete.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I agree with the others in that fiberglass mesh is not to be used alone on anything you drive on. It doesn not do what rebar can do. If you are spending the money, do it right and fire the contractor who told you to use mesh instead of rebar.
Wire can be strong if done right, unfortunatly, it is just about impossible to get it right. Most will tell you that they can pull it up after the concrete is on it, but they are walking on it and pushing it right down again. Getting the wire mesh into the middle fo the pour is so dificult that it shouldn't even be an option.
Rebar is the only real choice here. What you need to decide is if you want 3/8 (#3) rebar or 1/2 (#4) rebar, and at what spacing. Most of the time, 3/8 on two foot centers is good for driveways.
What are you paying for? Dirt work? Fill material that has to be compacted? Forms?
Know what you are paying for and get it in writing. If they won't put it in writing, then you know you don't want to deal with that person.
Keep shopping around until you get what you want.
Price is always a local thing and we really don't know what you are paying for. Here, in the classifieds, you can get flat work for $3.50 a sq ft. AmericanClassifieds.com : CONCRETE WORK: House slabs, driveways, sidewalks, pool decks, co
But that doesn't mean anything where you are at.
The more time you spend talking to contractors and researching it, the better decision you will make
Good luck,
Eddie
Wire can be strong if done right, unfortunatly, it is just about impossible to get it right. Most will tell you that they can pull it up after the concrete is on it, but they are walking on it and pushing it right down again. Getting the wire mesh into the middle fo the pour is so dificult that it shouldn't even be an option.
Rebar is the only real choice here. What you need to decide is if you want 3/8 (#3) rebar or 1/2 (#4) rebar, and at what spacing. Most of the time, 3/8 on two foot centers is good for driveways.
What are you paying for? Dirt work? Fill material that has to be compacted? Forms?
Know what you are paying for and get it in writing. If they won't put it in writing, then you know you don't want to deal with that person.
Keep shopping around until you get what you want.
Price is always a local thing and we really don't know what you are paying for. Here, in the classifieds, you can get flat work for $3.50 a sq ft. AmericanClassifieds.com : CONCRETE WORK: House slabs, driveways, sidewalks, pool decks, co
But that doesn't mean anything where you are at.
The more time you spend talking to contractors and researching it, the better decision you will make
Good luck,
Eddie
mjncad
Super Member
The following is one estimate I received for concrete flatwork to replace the crap the builder installed. This is the highest bid, the lowest was around $12,300. What is mentioned in the estimate is based on specifications and a drawings I submitted to three contractors. Unfortunately we can't afford to do this project, so it's on the back burner...maybe next year.
PHASE 1:
Tear out and remove existing concrete driveway apron leading in off the asphalt street.
Area is: 270.5 square feet.
Remove 2" (+ or -) of the surface soils, to allow 6" depth.
Remove dirt/gravel areas behind the concrete, to lengthen the driveway back to the South.
Adjust landscape materials along the East side of the concrete, over and around the culvert
pipe, to allow water to properly drain from the concrete into the ditch.
Compact and fine grade loose soils.
Form and replace the driveway area, at: 446 square feet.
Concrete will be replaced using a city/county approved six sack cement mix,
with a minimum compressive strength of 4,000 p.s.i.
Concrete will be poured at a six inch thickness, with #4 rebar set at 24" on center
running East to West. Rebar will be placed on chairs to assure 3" coverage on all sides.
Edges and joints will be tooled.
Barricades/traffic cones will be provided for protection.
Broom finish.
Phase 1: $3,041.72
PHASE 2:
Tear out and remove existing concrete driveway apron at the garage.
Area is: 527.25 square feet.
Remove 2" (+ or -) of the surface soils, to allow 6" depth.
Remove dirt/gravel areas along the side of the concrete, to lengthen the
driveway to the East.
Compact and fine grade loose soils.
Form and replace the driveway area, at: 726.75 square feet.
Concrete will be replaced using a city/county approved six sack cement mix,
with a minimum compressive strength of 4,000 p.s.i.
Concrete will be poured at a six inch thickness, with #4 rebar set at 24" on center
running East to West. Rebar will be placed on chairs to assure 3" coverage on all sides.
Edges and joints will be tooled.
Broom finish.
Phase 2: $4,958.14
** Phase 1 & 2 are to be done at the same time.
PHASE 3:
Tear out, remove and replace concrete garage floor, at approximately: 763 square feet.
Remove 2" (+ or -) of the surface soils, to allow 6" depth.
Compact and fine grade loose soils.
Install vapor barrier over the compacted soils.
Concrete will be replaced using a city/county approved six sack cement mix,
with a minimum compressive strength of 4,000 p.s.i.
Concrete will be poured at a six inch thickness, with #4 rebar set at 24" on center
running East to West. Rebar will be placed on chairs to assure 3" coverage on all sides.
Joints will be saw cut into the new cement, as needed.
Slick/smooth finish.
Phase 3: $8,500.00
Based on being done with phase 1 & 2.
PHASE 1:
Tear out and remove existing concrete driveway apron leading in off the asphalt street.
Area is: 270.5 square feet.
Remove 2" (+ or -) of the surface soils, to allow 6" depth.
Remove dirt/gravel areas behind the concrete, to lengthen the driveway back to the South.
Adjust landscape materials along the East side of the concrete, over and around the culvert
pipe, to allow water to properly drain from the concrete into the ditch.
Compact and fine grade loose soils.
Form and replace the driveway area, at: 446 square feet.
Concrete will be replaced using a city/county approved six sack cement mix,
with a minimum compressive strength of 4,000 p.s.i.
Concrete will be poured at a six inch thickness, with #4 rebar set at 24" on center
running East to West. Rebar will be placed on chairs to assure 3" coverage on all sides.
Edges and joints will be tooled.
Barricades/traffic cones will be provided for protection.
Broom finish.
Phase 1: $3,041.72
PHASE 2:
Tear out and remove existing concrete driveway apron at the garage.
Area is: 527.25 square feet.
Remove 2" (+ or -) of the surface soils, to allow 6" depth.
Remove dirt/gravel areas along the side of the concrete, to lengthen the
driveway to the East.
Compact and fine grade loose soils.
Form and replace the driveway area, at: 726.75 square feet.
Concrete will be replaced using a city/county approved six sack cement mix,
with a minimum compressive strength of 4,000 p.s.i.
Concrete will be poured at a six inch thickness, with #4 rebar set at 24" on center
running East to West. Rebar will be placed on chairs to assure 3" coverage on all sides.
Edges and joints will be tooled.
Broom finish.
Phase 2: $4,958.14
** Phase 1 & 2 are to be done at the same time.
PHASE 3:
Tear out, remove and replace concrete garage floor, at approximately: 763 square feet.
Remove 2" (+ or -) of the surface soils, to allow 6" depth.
Compact and fine grade loose soils.
Install vapor barrier over the compacted soils.
Concrete will be replaced using a city/county approved six sack cement mix,
with a minimum compressive strength of 4,000 p.s.i.
Concrete will be poured at a six inch thickness, with #4 rebar set at 24" on center
running East to West. Rebar will be placed on chairs to assure 3" coverage on all sides.
Joints will be saw cut into the new cement, as needed.
Slick/smooth finish.
Phase 3: $8,500.00
Based on being done with phase 1 & 2.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I use plastic chairs for supporting rebar. They are cheap and light weight for carrying around. They never cause any problems down the road either.
Eddie
Eddie
captaincrab55
Silver Member
Several members mentioned to make sure the rebar or wire is in the middle of the poured concrete..
Is it best to be in the middle, top half or bottom half of the pour??
Is it best to be in the middle, top half or bottom half of the pour??
tractorshopper
Veteran Member
Got an estimate last night for $3 to $3.25 per square foot for my driveway to be. Includes prep, forming and concrete. Upstate SC. Will already be mostly compacted gravel base during construction. 200' drive 10' wide for ~$6k. Getting another estimate today from another contractor.
Many thanks for all the replies. To answer some questions raised:
1. My property gently slopes across the drive but I have two culverts that have been draining that portion of the property w/o any problems.
2. The bid includes all prep work and pouring the concrete (included in price).
3. The drive has been filled and compacted with fill mud (red clay).
I got an "off the cuff" bid today for 1. labor $1.25 sq. ft. 2. 5% on concrete 3. concrete is selling for about $95/$100 per yard. I figure that bid will come in at about $3500 +/-. He was doing a friend's sidewalk & driveway and will inspect my drive later this week. I will get a bid to add steel.
Norm
1. My property gently slopes across the drive but I have two culverts that have been draining that portion of the property w/o any problems.
2. The bid includes all prep work and pouring the concrete (included in price).
3. The drive has been filled and compacted with fill mud (red clay).
I got an "off the cuff" bid today for 1. labor $1.25 sq. ft. 2. 5% on concrete 3. concrete is selling for about $95/$100 per yard. I figure that bid will come in at about $3500 +/-. He was doing a friend's sidewalk & driveway and will inspect my drive later this week. I will get a bid to add steel.
Norm