Connect PTO shaft using pin or bolt?

[Soundguy]

What tractor is this that has a sticky? bearing so that you are getting inconsistant clutching??? It's very dangerous...

As for the new shaft... might as well check collapsed length.. if all was cut off one side.. you didn't 'gain' very much.

soundguy

 

[Richard]

The tractor is an International 886. I think it's kind of a cross breed of gear and hydro. Meaning, it's got some gear sliders on the left side fender. I think (as in now know) it's got some transmission issues.... I used to have a Honda Accord, manual shift... if you were in 4th gear or maybe sometimes, 3rd... it would/could sometimes simply pop out of gear. Almost like it wasn't FULLY going into the gear. if you held your hand on the shifter, it wouldn't pop out.

This is kind of similar however, it's issue seems to be more going INTO the gear instead of popping out. If you need to change gears, you can often find yourself fiddling around with the gear selector clearly in "1,2,3,4" and STILL have to fiddle with it to actually get into gear.

Add to that I discovered it had a small hydraulic leak. When the tractor is on a slope and you go to reverse, or into forward from reverse, it doesn't always "go" Filled up with hydraulic fluid and that problem basically went away HOWEVER, there is still an apparent issue with rpm's. If you are at a low/idle rpm, put it into 1'st or maybe reverse.... it will just sit there (not always) and then suddenly, decide it realizes its in gear and go.

If the rpm's are up higher, this isn't such a problem....HOWEVER, when you are backing into something, before figuring out all these intracies, you might slow the engine down so it's moving slower, like when trying to slowly backup to attach something to the drawbar.....

My brother in law thinks this 886 has the better engine but that the 986 (which he has at his place) has the better transmission.

Regardless... I once made the comment that if they are going to try to buy something to cut the farm with, as cheap as possible, then you've GOT to expect some issues with said machine. If they bought something 5 years old, verses maybe 25/30, they might simply get a net 'better' machine (and I realize maybe not, if it was abuse....like for example....smashing into hidden stumps when going in reverse )

I've attached some pictures of the yoke assembly. The second picture looks to me like the rolled pin is hanging out a bit and is SUPPOSED to be like that (as though this was the outside of assembly and this is simply the extra length of pin)

I'm intrigued on how clean the cut seems to be on them. On the first picture, you can see the compressed shaft, hidden inside the outer shaft and the rest of the rolled pin in the middle.

 

[Soundguy]

That shaft has seen some better days.

Also.. I assume that machine has a torque amplifier?

soundguy

 

[Richard]

That shaft has seen some better days.

Also.. I assume that machine has a torque amplifier?

soundguy

Shaft: Probably 1 year old give/take

Torque amplifier: You're catching my ignorance... is perhaps that the feature where there is a lever on the dash and upon pulling this lever, the machine will stay in the same gear, same rpm's yet will still 'slow down' just a bit and as I understand it, allow more power to the wheels?

If so, then this machine, the 886 doesn't have it Our 986 does (BIL's)

If that's not a good description, then I don't know the answer.

 

[Richard]

Slight correction... I'm not sure that my BIL bought BOTH halves when he 'replaced the shaft'. It's possible he only replaced one half and if that's the case, I'm under the belief that he replaced the half that is the inside half (that connects to the pto yoke) and not the outer half.

 

[Soundguy]

That star shaft looks worse / more worn tht the one on my 1998 batwing mower .. and it's seen alot of mowing hours...

soundguy

 

[Richard]

That star shaft looks worse / more worn tht the one on my 1998 batwing mower .. and it's seen alot of mowing hours...

soundguy

That may be true, but that doesn't change the reality that at least half of this assembly, defined as yoke that attaches to PTO and shaft, is new (and quite possibly, both halves of shaft)


You wondered earlier about what kind of tractor had issues with the shifting and lurching...

Here's a picture of the gear knob. You can see the left knob (shorter one) has a slider and little notches where each gear is. This is the funky one that even though you are at a notch, it might or might not be in gear....you still have to fiddle around sometimes. More often than not, when you are in first gear (worst) but most of them are a bit problematic.

Once you are IN a gear, the tractor has no issues about jumping out of gear or anything....but for....being at low rpm's (idle) and you want to creep slowlyyyyyyyy..... you can sometimes take your foot off the clutch and nothing will grab for a moment....then all the sudden it's 100% grab.

Seems if the rpm's are a bit higher, this isn't as large of an issue.

I dont' know what kind of transmission you'd call this as it seems to be more of a hybrid gear/hydraulic. It doesn't act the same as the more traditional International 444 we've got (geared).

 

[Soundguy]

I think I'd be checking my hyd filters and the hyds for that control circuit.. if that is a hyd-clutch pack type of 'power shifter' tranny.. etc... wear mechanical linkage may even be the culpret.

I think you 100% completely misse dmy point about the wear and the grunge on the pto shaft halves and what it has to do with the roll pin shearing. I believe if you go back and re-read my previous messages you will see what i was saying.

As others have said.. it's surely not a rotational force shearing the pin.. that only leaves 2 directions.. and those have to do with the pto shaft!

soundguy

 

[gemini5362]

I could not tell from looking at it. You said you are getting a new pin from the dealer make sure they get the right pin for the machine. Not something that will fit. A lot of people make the mistake of calling a split pin a roll pin. They are not the same thing. If you are replacing a roll pin with a split pin you might see the split pin break more easily. For definition a split pin is a pin with a certain diameter that is hollow and has a cut down the length of it. A roll pin looks like you took thin spring steel and rolled it up until you got the diameter you wanted and then cut the rest off. The difference in shear strength between the two should be pretty obvious.

 

[Richard]

A lot of people make the mistake of calling a split pin a roll pin. They are not the same thing. If you are replacing a roll pin with a split pin you might see the split pin break more easily. For definition a split pin is a pin with a certain diameter that is hollow and has a cut down the length of it. A roll pin looks like you took thin spring steel and rolled it up until you got the diameter you wanted and then cut the rest off. The difference in shear strength between the two should be pretty obvious.

I think you get my favorite comment of the day award! I think you hit one nail right on the head...meaning.... given the two descriptions you gave, I know in fact, I installed a split pin.

Interestingly, when I first inquired about this, a rolled pin (I think I was told they were called rollED) was sort of like a wound up spring in that it had layers of rolls.

That is NOT what was received by me (from Rhino).

Upon installing the split ring, I noticed it wasn't 'rolled' but....since it was from them directly, I didn't give it any more thought.

I'm onto the phone now to call them about this difference.

Thanks for turning that light bulb on for me