Fun,
I think you're OK. If you did any serious damage, you would already know about it - when it comes to electronics or fuses/fusible links, they're done as soon as you let the smoke out of them. It did put a strain on your truck alternator, but obviously not enough to kill the rectifiers and probably no worse than the load from starting the engine.
The other major factor that saved you here, is you just don't really ever get a good low-impedance/high-current connection with jumper cable clamps. Despite the size of the clamp, there really is not much actual contact area (and therefore current-carrying capacity) with the battery terminal or clamp. Both of which are typically somewhat oxidized anyway, which makes the resistance of the connections even that much higher.
Which is why:
1) You can't usually just start the car having the dead battery right away, you usually have to try to "charge" it some from the booster vehicle first. Because you can't pull all of the amps needed to crank the dead car through the jumper cables and weak clamp connections.
2) Jumper cable clamps heat up with use.
3) Jumper cables with really heavy gauge wires are useless anyway because you can't improve much on the clamp connections, which are the bottleneck.
If you
could have gotten solid low-impedance connections between the two systems, then odds are you would have blown something up - perhaps literally.
And since I see at least one flawed set of jumper connections posted, it wouldn't hurt to review the proper technique:
1)
+ clamps to
+ terminals of both batteries (keep
- clamps from touching anything)
2)
- clamp to
- terminal of
good battery.
3) - clamp to solid bare metal of engine or transmission of car with
dead battery (e.g., engine block, motor mount bracket). This last connection is when the spark happens, and you don't want that near the dead battery, which could ignite hydrogen gas venting from the dead battery, causing it to explode in your face. Like this one:
Remove connections in the exact reverse order. :thumbsup: