Hi all, long time member 1st time poster. I have a 2007 jinma 284 with a coolant leak. Noticed a leak coming from the water pump area. Thought it was the water pump leaking out the weep hole. After pulling the the pump the pulley didn't show signs of a bad seal. Did notice coolant coming from a cavity behind the water pump and at the bottom of where the pump sits. See photos. Any ideas what that cavity is or why there would be coolant leaking from there would be greatly appreciated.
Coolant leak jinma 284
- Thread starter fargis
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piper184
Gold Member
I'm pretty sure that is a soft plug in the front of the block.
You are going to have to pull the timing cover, gears and case to get at it.
Before I went to all that work, I would try and fix up a plate for the water pump opening and block off the rad hoses. Then put some pressure into the block to see if you can confirm a leak at that plug.
Do you have a parts manual for the engine? If not, several dealers have them online for you to look at.
You are going to have to pull the timing cover, gears and case to get at it.
Before I went to all that work, I would try and fix up a plate for the water pump opening and block off the rad hoses. Then put some pressure into the block to see if you can confirm a leak at that plug.
Do you have a parts manual for the engine? If not, several dealers have them online for you to look at.
Bob Rooks
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I agree with Piper. That's a cup type core (casting) plug. But I would clean that area thoroughly to make sure it's necessary to pull off the front of the engine.
Bob Rooks
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I would bet on corrosion since it's been in there for so long. Corrosion can be caused by several ways, lack of coolant treatment (no anti-freeze or conditioner), electrolysis, impingement........
piper184
Gold Member
Yes, most likely corrosion of some sort. Most plugs last the life of the engine, but stuff happens.
There is a remote possibility that in cold temps and little or no anti-freeze, ice forming in the block can push out a plug.
That does not appear to the the case here as I can see the coolant is green. Also the plug is trapped in the hole by the timing case so it couldn't have moved very far. If none of the other plugs show any signs of distress you can easily rule out freezing as the cause.
I am curious about how many hours are on your tractor. My 2006 284 has 1000 hours on it. My water pump seal failed at about 700 hours. For expedience I slapped a new pump on it and moved on. The old pump is in my pile of things to do. Someday I will attempt to take it apart and see if it can be "rebuilt" if I can find seals. Someday...
There is a remote possibility that in cold temps and little or no anti-freeze, ice forming in the block can push out a plug.
That does not appear to the the case here as I can see the coolant is green. Also the plug is trapped in the hole by the timing case so it couldn't have moved very far. If none of the other plugs show any signs of distress you can easily rule out freezing as the cause.
I am curious about how many hours are on your tractor. My 2006 284 has 1000 hours on it. My water pump seal failed at about 700 hours. For expedience I slapped a new pump on it and moved on. The old pump is in my pile of things to do. Someday I will attempt to take it apart and see if it can be "rebuilt" if I can find seals. Someday...
What would other symptoms be other than the visual leak? I was using it to move 5x4 round bales to feed our animals with no issues except the temp gauge didn't show a temp rise. Outside air temps were in the single digits at the time. Thanks
Bob Rooks
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Sometimes temp gauges can fool you. The bulb of the sending unit or cap tube must be submerged in the flow of coolant to be accurate. If the coolant is not present or flowing any reading would be unreliable. Operating in single digit conditions would require blocking the airflow (a common practice) through the radiator by at least half to prevent freezing. Wind chill through the radiator from the fan could easily see sub-zero conditions. Reverse logic applies here because you want to keep the radiator and air flow as warm as possible. So, did the front of the engine actually freeze? I don't know.
Also, when the ambient temps reach 10°F diesel fuel will begin to gel, unless you are really lucky. Something you really don't want. An additive is mandatory.
Also, when the ambient temps reach 10°F diesel fuel will begin to gel, unless you are really lucky. Something you really don't want. An additive is mandatory.
If the soft plug ( is that the same as a freeze plug?)is the problem how difficult a job is it to fix it? I am mechanically inclined but not too knowledgeable about diesel engines.