Coolant leaking John Deere 4320 4520 4720 compact tractor

[oldtimer 66]

There are no serial numbers listed in the instructions sunnyside360. The cover page list's the date as "12JUL10" I am not sure how to read that date. I assume it is 12/6/2010 as the date of release/ approval on the instruction. When the cut-in at the factory was I do not know. Secondly this instruction is for the compact skids steers 304J and 244J. I was told that this is the instruction for my tractor/ 4320/ and the other 20 series tractors plus the 5225 and 5235 tractors. I have other information that I need to get. There must be a later version of the instruction because it addresses the water pump mounting surface as a cast and or machine surface and there is no mention of the new gasket for the water pump. It list 2 types of sealant depending upon a cast surface and or a machined surface. Let me see if I can get additional info. Later

 

[oldtimer 66]

Just because I have time and I am semi retired here is some information on the initial water pump leak in 2009. I forwarded this info to the dealer and he said he could not open the file/ PP. I was complaining then and I am complaining now. Wow what I life I must have. Anyways because I am new to this web site I converted the PP file to three PDF files. Hopefully they can be opened. Not sure. This was my observation on the water pump coolant leak on my tractor back in 2009. This reminds me of a famous quotation. " As the Lord said only a fool forgives and forgets" Later.View attachment IMG_20150113_0003.pdfView attachment IMG_20150113_0002.pdfView attachment IMG_20150113_0001.pdf

 

[beenthere]

You seem to be on a mission. Not sure that I have yet figured out just what it is.

 

[sebrook]

Started to attempt to repair the coolant leak from the timing gear cover......was going well until i found there were two bolts holding the oil pan on that there is no way to get at without pulling the motor.....or at least moving the motor foward four inches or so. Two bolts at rear of oil pan are actually in from the clutch housing side. If anyone has found otherwise please let me know. We figured we could do it without removing the cab but really don't want to pull the motor.

 

[beenthere]

:welcome: to TBN

Bummer, if you have to pull the motor. But in the long run, may be the easier route.

Hope someone has an easy suggestion and will chime in soon.

 

[upnorthtractors]

Started to attempt to repair the coolant leak from the timing gear cover......was going well until i found there were two bolts holding the oil pan on that there is no way to get at without pulling the motor.....or at least moving the motor foward four inches or so. Two bolts at rear of oil pan are actually in from the clutch housing side. If anyone has found otherwise please let me know. We figured we could do it without removing the cab but really don't want to pull the motor.

I just finished one of these coolant leak updates, the 2 bolts go all the way through the bellhousing. Look further back you'll will see them the engine doesn't have to be pulled. Ironically enough to pull the engine you would have to pull those bolts first. I didn't read all of this thread and hope I haven't stepped on no ones toes. I was trying to find some info before started the job.

 

[K. Shelton]

I just finished one of these coolant leak updates, the 2 bolts go all the way through the bellhousing. Look further back you'll will see them the engine doesn't have to be pulled. Ironically enough to pull the engine you would have to pull those bolts first. I didn't read all of this thread and hope I haven't stepped on no ones toes. I was trying to find some info before started the job.

I just finished one of these coolant leak updates, the 2 bolts go all the way through the bellhousing. Look further back you'll will see them the engine doesn't have to be pulled. Ironically enough to pull the engine you would have to pull those bolts first. I didn't read all of this thread and hope I haven't stepped on no ones toes. I was trying to find some info before started the job.

I just priced this repair at local dealer. $6600.00. Repaired with same sealer no gasket. What’s to say it won’t happen again Beware of buying 4320,4520, or 4720 not worth the repair.

 

[oldtimer 66]

Shelton, I just saw your post. For $6600 I would do this repair all day long. There is a gasket for the forward end cover. It is a steel gasket with an embossed center section. See the picture of the kit. I did the repair myself at around 1000 hrs. I now have 2300 hrs on the tractor and there are no coolant leaks. The water pump now has a gasket called out. You need to replace all of the mounting hardware because it is torque turn. At the time I repaired my tractor the basic repair kit was only about $200. There are some other items that you may want to replace when doing this repair. Add the water pump gasket, radiator fan bearing and tensioner idler pully, front axle trunion bearing/sleeves, etc. The engine does not need to be removed to do this repair. Later

 

[MichAg]

Oldtimer, thanks for the info on this repair. I am getting ready to attack this on my 2007 4320 with my dad and son. We will make it a 'fun' multi-generational project. My coolant has been leaking for years but it was always a small leak. It now leaks more and the belt jumped from the pulleys. The John Deere dealer mentioned a labor charge of $3200 in our phone conversation. It seems like a fun project to do with one's dad and son and to let grandpa and grandson have some time together. Ha!

Couple of questions for you: (1) is there a place to get the repair diagram/instructions for this? I saw a RE 547689 listed somewhere. Is that a repair guide or will the service manual help (JD-S-TM10290? Are these available at a JD dealer? (2) There is a video, link below, that shows someone doing the repair. They pull off the front wheel axle and frame component and separate it, including radiator and oil cooler, as one piece from the engine area. It seems to provide more space to work (link below). Thoughts on this verses the method you show in your pictures? (3) You mention some parts to replace when tearing it apart, how about the actual water pump? Thanks for helping us anti-freeze leakers out.

Timing cover gasket job on a John Deere 4520 | By Ray's RepairFacebook

Timing cover gasket job on a John Deere 4520

www.facebook.com

 

[oldtimer 66]

I just saw the post. I would replace the bearing in the fan shaft. Don't use the brass shim at the head connection because that just adds another connection that could leak. You need to dress/ file the area around the thermostat because that is where it leaked. That surface is as cast and it needs to be filed smooth as in machined like. Looks at the section of the rubber gasket and you will understand why. The cast in groove does not do any sealing. It more like a locator groove for the rubber gasket. I will look and see if I have the RE 547689. From what I remember it was just a list corrections to be made for various problems. I didn't want to disconnect the air conditioning and hydro cooler. With the radiator out there was sufficient room to remove the FEC. You need to really clean between the side rails and oil pan before you remove the oil pan. Any dirt and or debris can contaminate the later assembly. I would replace the synthetic bearings on the trunnions / front axle assembly. I have the John Deere maintenance CD and and it said to remove the cab to do this work. That wasn't going to happen. If you have a cab tractor they make a high volume water pump which would help in the cold weather for heat. The FEC used stretch bolts so you will need new hardware which I think comes in the kit. I will look for any instructions tomorrow.