Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer

   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer #11  
Looking to get involved in a couple of projects. First, building a 6x10 10,400 pound dump trailer, then an 18 foot car/equipment hauler also rated for 10,400 pounds. Last on the list would be a wood splitter that I am still working on the plans for. I already know that one will be a lot cheaper than the $6,000 wood splitters like it.

Question is, after buying all the materials to build the trailers (e.g., axles, wheels, tires, jack, raw materials), would it be cheaper versus buying them, and if so by about how much? Have not researched much on the trailer options out there, but I would want to have Dexter axles on them and have no idea if this is even an option on pre-built trailers.

Buy a low dump trailer and you have no need for the 2 trailers and as far as building 2 thats a lot of time and money also if you were building it to haul 10,400lbs you better be not only a good welder but a great welder !:thumbsup: the log splitter is a good plan because to get one with all the toys cost is way to high on these and you would have that built exactly the way you want it with out paying crazy prices :2cents:
 
   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer #12  
I have been in the trailer business for about 20 years and its just about always cheaper to buy.

Chris
 
   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Buy a low dump trailer and you have no need for the 2 trailers and as far as building 2 thats a lot of time and money also if you were building it to haul 10,400lbs you better be not only a good welder but a great welder !:thumbsup: the log splitter is a good plan because to get one with all the toys cost is way to high on these and you would have that built exactly the way you want it with out paying crazy prices :2cents:

Yeah, going to need two. The dump trailer to haul firewood and stuff that I do not want to shovel out of a trailer and then the car hauler to move broken down cars and eventually the tractor I am going to get. Don't think one single trailer will accomplish both tasks easily.

Just wondering why the economies of scale are so large for trailers but not splitters. I can save a ton of money on splitters, but not on building a trailer it seems unless I have connections for cheap materials and axles. Will have to ask around some and see what I can do as far as axles and materials are concerned.
 
   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer
  • Thread Starter
#14  
10,400 lbs capacity is an unusual choice. In many states there is a license fee break at 10,000 lbs.

In Oregon, my dump trailer is nameplate rated at 9,990 lbs gross. This saves me on registration fees, and allows me to tow it with a standard license on my pickup truck. If it were rated at 10,001 lbs gross I would need a "T" plate on the truck and it would cost a minimum of $260 per calendar quarter for truck registration.

It would have to be a very unusual situation to justify 410 lbs of extra capacity for $1040 per year in extra costs.

10,400 pounds is because the axles will be rated for that (i.e., two 5,200 pound axles). When I go to obtain title and tag for the trailer, I would obviously rate it at whatever it needs to be rated at so I can avoid any ridiculous fees. I think trailer registration in Maryland is rather simple though. Here is some stuff off of the Maryland MVA website:


Homemade Trailers

Homemade trailers may be titled and registered by submitting an Application for Title to the Administration with two photographs of the vehicle taken from side and rear angles. If the application is approved, an assigned VIN (serial plate) is issued. It must be affixed to the vehicle and becomes the identification number used in all future transactions.

Freight & Semi Freight Trailers

Freight and semi-freight trailers are subject to the same motor vehicle laws as passenger vehicles. They must be titled and if registration is desired, they must be safety inspected (if used vehicle). In addition freight and semi-freight trailers must provide proof of Motor Vehicle Liability Insurance in the minimum amount required by law or as amended. All other trailers are covered by the insurance of the towing vehicle. If a commercial (freight) trailer is converted to an office trailer and the owner wishes to title the vehicle, State Retail Sales Tax must be paid and the sales tax receipt must accompany the Application for Title.


You are right about the fees though. That extra 1 pound above 10,000 would cost a little more every two years.

Trucks
E
Trucks (3/4 ton or 7,000 lbs. or less)
$154.50

E
Trucks (10,000 lbs. GVW [1/2 or 3/4 ton])
$207.00


Trailers
G Trailer 3,000 lbs. or less
$51.00*

G Trailer 3,001 - 5,000 lbs.
$102.00*

G Trailer 5,001 - 10,000 lbs.
$160.00*

G Trailer 10,001 - 20,000 lbs.
$248.00*

G Freight trailer or semi-trailer
$76.50*

Farm trailers or Farm semi-trailers
GF Trailer 3,000 lbs. or less
$25.50*

GF Trailer 3,001 5,000 lbs.
$51.00*

GF Trailer 5,001 10,000 lbs.
$80.00*

GF Trailer 10,001 20,000 lbs.
$124.00*


*Registration fee does not require a surcharge.
 
   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer #15  
" Economics of Scale " is really the answer . Unless you have access to axles close by , and steel at virtually wholesale prices , the economics of trailer building are usually not favorable for a person to do their own . I have access to both new steel as well as " used " new steel and even recycled steel . " Used , new steel " , is sold as used but is new , old stock , may have surface rust , or other surface defects , ( most of this type steel is in 40' lengths ) , can also be bent or twisted somewere in the 40' length . Even at those prices though , Unless I was buying a lot and building a multitude of trailers and selling , it ends up being cheaper to buy a trailer as most if not all of the trailer makers , do buy bulk thus reducing their price of raw materials enough that they can make a profit .

A log splitter is a different story , as most store bought splitters do seem to be way over priced . I can imagine that the profit margin on store bought log splitters is more , if not a lot more , than the profit
margin is for trailer makers , actually should be saying ROI or Return On Investment rather than profit margin .

Fred H.
 
   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer
  • Thread Starter
#16  
" Economics of Scale " is really the answer . Unless you have access to axles close by , and steel at virtually wholesale prices , the economics of trailer building are usually not favorable for a person to do their own . I have access to both new steel as well as " used " new steel and even recycled steel . " Used , new steel " , is sold as used but is new , old stock , may have surface rust , or other surface defects , ( most of this type steel is in 40' lengths ) , can also be bent or twisted somewere in the 40' length . Even at those prices though , Unless I was buying a lot and building a multitude of trailers and selling , it ends up being cheaper to buy a trailer as most if not all of the trailer makers , do buy bulk thus reducing their price of raw materials enough that they can make a profit .

A log splitter is a different story , as most store bought splitters do seem to be way over priced . I can imagine that the profit margin on store bought log splitters is more , if not a lot more , than the profit
margin is for trailer makers , actually should be saying ROI or Return On Investment rather than profit margin .

Fred H.

I can get a 7'x18' 10,000 GVWR trailer for $2,500. To me, that is a no brainer. Buy instead of build. Heck, if I could get the splitter I want for $2,500 instead of $6,000, that would be a no brainer too and I would buy it in a heartbet. With trailers, things get a little tougher to figure out for dump trailers. Just seen some prices in the $6,000 range for a 6'x10' with a GVWR of 10,000, which makes me wonder about it. How can it be $3,500 more for a dump trailer versus a car hauler rated for the same GVWR (i.e., same axles). Nothing in life can be easy.
 
   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer #17  
I do not see how you guys say store bought splitter is over priced? I can get a 30 ton Troy Built or Speedco for $1200

To build one you need hoses, $50. Pump, $100. Motor, $250. Steel, $300. Wheels, $100. Hubs and bearings, $100. Cylinder, $150. Valve, $100. Filter setup, $40. Ball coupler, $25. Ect, ect, ect....

Don't get me wrong, I built my own in 2006. It cost me $100 more than a store bought unit but I built it the way I wanted it. None of the store units were what I was looking for.
 
   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer #18  
I would build over buy for several reasons. First I would make just one trailer. I see no reason why you can't make a 18' car trailer that could be easily converted to a dump trailer. It wouldn't be hard to make a dump box that lifted off and a flat panel that extends further behind the wheels inserted for the car trailer. Secondly I would rather have the hydraulics powered by a small gas engine vs electric (personal taste). Thirdly I would rather put 12k axles under the trailer even if I was going to register it for under 10k. Some places I would use it I'll never see any signs of law enforcement. Finally I would love the challenge of designing and building it. With two trailers you have twice the registration costs and you now have 8 tires,vs 4, that will need replacing in 5 or so years.

I could think of several nice options I might add to the trailer. For example if you have a hydraulic pump it wouldn't be hard to make a mount to add a cherry picker for loading things that otherwise would be hard. On my trailers I like to take 3/8" chain and weld single links in lots of places so I always have a place to hook a strap to.
 
   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer #19  
I do not see how you guys say store bought splitter is over priced? I can get a 30 ton Troy Built or Speedco for $1200

To build one you need hoses, $50. Pump, $100. Motor, $250. Steel, $300. Wheels, $100. Hubs and bearings, $100. Cylinder, $150. Valve, $100. Filter setup, $40. Ball coupler, $25. Ect, ect, ect....

Don't get me wrong, I built my own in 2006. It cost me $100 more than a store bought unit but I built it the way I wanted it. None of the store units were what I was looking for.

A basic splitter, yes, you couldn't build one for the price you could buy it from TSC or Lowes. But if you start to get into the splitters that have lift tables and adjustable 4 way splitting wedges the only companies that make them charge top dollar since the demand isn't that great.
 
   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer #20  
I can get a 7'x18' 10,000 GVWR trailer for $2,500. To me, that is a no brainer. Buy instead of build. Heck, if I could get the splitter I want for $2,500 instead of $6,000, that would be a no brainer too and I would buy it in a heartbet. With trailers, things get a little tougher to figure out for dump trailers. Just seen some prices in the $6,000 range for a 6'x10' with a GVWR of 10,000, which makes me wonder about it. How can it be $3,500 more for a dump trailer versus a car hauler rated for the same GVWR (i.e., same axles). Nothing in life can be easy.
A dump trailer typically has a beefier frame than a car hauler. With a dump you have more steel. Lots more steel, the pump, motor, deep cycle battery, controller, hydraulic hoses, in some cases a scissor mechanism, tailgate hardware, much more fabbing and welding than a typical car hauler.
When I bought my dump trailer prices on 14' 14K rigs ranged from $4800 to well over $7000. After looking at several brands I ended up buying the most expensive because I felt it offered the best value in the long run.

I disagree with whoever said a heavier trailer isn't better. True, you lose some payload capacity but a heavier,stronger trailer will last longer. I've had my home made flatbed since the 1980's and my dumper for 8 years. I use them in my construction business. I see no reason they won't last another 25-30 years. Try that with a lighter cheaper trailer.
 
 
Top