Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer

   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer #31  
I think if you are up to it, it would be possible to have a sort of "scissor" action. Finding the right length of pivot arms and spacing it could be made to dump where the back of the dump box would actually swing forward and up, allowing you to build a dump trailer with the proper rear overhang, but still give you the dump angle needed while keeping a low seated height. It would take some figuring out for the pivot arms, and definitely a lot of other design considerations, but it is a thought. This is something I was contemplating a few years ago, but ultimately decided that, while fun, is not really necessary since I really don't even need a dump trailer.
 
   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer #32  
As an experienced one in the industry from small size workshops to big factories, I can say this:

if you are confident in your weld quality,

if your time value in $ is low (means if you have free time),

if trailer is small, say, less than 5 ton (10-12 k.lb), (heaviers will be difficult to handle in a small workshop.)

if you can reach cheap raw metal source (sheet, I, U beams, etc - these are 80 percent of material cost anyway. Tyres, axles, etc will be in 20% of total material cost.),

If you have these two simple equipments (welder and plasma cutter),

go for DIY trailer which will of course be cheaper than that by any manufacturer in the world including China. because any mfg will add labor cost and profit which are zero for you as long as these IF conditions above are satisfied.
 
   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer #33  
fabsroman said:
Think I have figured out what I am going to do. I am either going to buy or build a car hauler that can be tilted and then fashion some walls for it so that I can also use it as a dump trailer to a degree. I'll just have to make sure the load is in the right place on the trailer. Figure I will make the side walls such that they go right into the stake pockets on the trailer and then fashion the front and back walls so they attach to the side walls.

Essentially, looking at something like this HYDRAULIC TILT CAR HAULER TRAILER PLANS 82" X 19'

Mainly going to be using the trailer to haul firewood, gravel, tons of building supplies for the garage/addition/remodel, waterfowl blinds, our cars when they break down, and probably my tractor when I get it.
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If you are wanting a dump trailer. Check with some rental places. They keep them so many yrs then, sell them. I bought mine like that. 16 ft dump with sides towmaster brand HD 12 Model . They wanted $5000.00. I offered $3000.00 for it and they said ok
 
   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer #35  
As others have said, there is a simple "formula" for building your own being cheaper than buying. ....

If it is a high volume item, you can't even come close. If it is highly custom, or very low volume (and you have the tools/skills) then it is worth it.

The big caveat is if you simply want to do it. But don't fool yourself that you are saving money ...
 
   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer #36  
fabsroman said:
Yeah, I am not talking about a Troy-Bilt, Speeco, or whatever those cheepo splitters are available at Home Depot, Lowes, and Tractor Supply. Take a look at Oak & Iron, Timberwolf, and other log splitters that have a log lift and adjustable 4 way or 6 way wedge. The one I want, a Timberwolf TW-4hd is $6,000. My dad has a 25 ton Home Depot special (i.e., Yard Machines by MTD), and while it has split 100 cords or more over its 15+ years, it was tough splitting the 36" oak we just did a couple years ago. I want to be able to roll bucked logs onto the log lift and split them at waist height versus all this kneeling down stuff, and I do not want to lift 300+ pound rounds anywhere. It was easy rolling those 36" rounds, but if we missed the splitter plate when we dropped them over, life got tough. I also want to build something with a fast cycle time so that when I have 3 or 4 guys working together, we aren't waiting on the splitter. However, my wife will kill me if I spend $6,000 on a splitter. Don't intend on selling firewood anytime soon for a living to justify it. Plus, I need projects to keep my mind challenged and me busy.
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Thats how I felt. I wanted a Timberwolf TW6 and ended up building my own for probably about 1/2. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/219145-woodsplitter-build-timberwolf-clone.html

On trailers.... I dont think you can compete with the manufacturers who pump these things out day after day, even if you buy components when on sale (which could take over a year)... Only thing about building your own is you can be sure it has good paint (some makers use crappy paint) and good wiring.

I have a 12' "landscaper" style trailer that I built probably 15 years ago now. I KNOW for a fact that there is no way I could build that for less than buy today. In all these years, Ive never had a wiring issue, which means something I guess:thumbsup:. It needs to be blasted and painted now, along with a new deck. Im debating on lengthening it to 16 or 18' and converting it to dump... but not sure.
 
   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer #38  
This has been touched on in the thread but I'd like to take it a little further: buying a used trailer (cheap) assuming bad axles, etc. and restoring. I ask because I'm researching equipment trailers and once you go above 10K to 12 or 14 they are no longer bargain priced. Add to that the ones from the likes Kaufman/Big Tex/Gatormade are often cited to not be as heavy duty as the "best" brands and when I look at the cost of the added steel in those the price is way up.

It seems to me that sub-10K utility/equipment trailers are common as dirt hence more price pressure but these 12s and 14s not so much. Then again the 10, 12 ton equipment trailers are again super common on Craigs list. Why not pick up one of these cheap and put a little money into it and register it for 15K? What am I missing? I see a branded 12ton(24K) right now that the manufacturer specs as 5500lbs. The 12K and 14K average quality trailers weight around 3750-4250 and the "better" ones are creeping up on 5000. Provided their is still enough payload capacity left to do what I need to get done why wouldn't the bad boy be the better trailer? Save a little money and get a really strong trailer without having to become a certified welder!

OK - now tear me apart ;)
 
   / Cost feasibility of building versus buying a trailer #39  
EdK said:
This has been touched on in the thread but I'd like to take it a little further: buying a used trailer (cheap) assuming bad axles, etc. and restoring. I ask because I'm researching equipment trailers and once you go above 10K to 12 or 14 they are no longer bargain priced. Add to that the ones from the likes Kaufman/Big Tex/Gatormade are often cited to not be as heavy duty as the "best" brands and when I look at the cost of the added steel in those the price is way up.

It seems to me that sub-10K utility/equipment trailers are common as dirt hence more price pressure but these 12s and 14s not so much. Then again the 10, 12 ton equipment trailers are again super common on Craigs list. Why not pick up one of these cheap and put a little money into it and register it for 15K? What am I missing? I see a branded 12ton(24K) right now that the manufacturer specs as 5500lbs. The 12K and 14K average quality trailers weight around 3750-4250 and the "better" ones are creeping up on 5000. Provided their is still enough payload capacity left to do what I need to get done why wouldn't the bad boy be the better trailer? Save a little money and get a really strong trailer without having to become a certified welder!

OK - now tear me apart ;)
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Problem is cost of components such as tires, axles, brakes, bearings, ect.

Tires alone would be enough to keep me away.

Chris
 
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