couldnt resist, ym1700

   / couldnt resist, ym1700
  • Thread Starter
#11  
yea those are basically just all terrain truck tires, 315's

They are nice though, like you said they can be used in the soil and still easy on the lawn.
 
   / couldnt resist, ym1700 #12  
If you can get the temp to lower, if by only a few degree by adding the water, but still not down to 190* or so, You might need a new rad cap, I remember when a combination of partly clogged radiator and Old Cap caused the radiator of my 1700 to swell and blow at the upper seam, The cap wasn't opening to allow the water to overflow into the catch-bottle,

I don't think 205* will ruin an engine, But It should be running a bit cooler,

Not sure about the logic in having the water being hotter helps to pump quicker is better,:confused: It needs to pump/perk slow enough to be cooled by air pulled through the radiator, right!
I think this can become a confusing theory, By one theory if water moves Too slowly it will allow it to become hotter,
The longer it stays in an engine the hotter the water becomes,.... However! by another theory if the water moves too quickly through the cooling system, Via: "Radiator" the radiator cannot do its job to cool the water down,
So it becomes a bit more science to get the adequate circulation on our Thermosyphon-systems.
 
   / couldnt resist, ym1700
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Back flushed radiator and cleaned out the fins on radiator. Put mostly distilled water back in and tractor is running 170 at top near injectora after about 20 minutes running. Lower block temps are in 145 range. Guess that is OK..a lot of muddy water ran out during back flush.

The left brake was dragging and I broke the connecting rod trying to adjust it..it was rusted up and the rod gave before the bolt did :mad:

So now I only have right brake and need another connecting rod..hope I can find one.
 
   / couldnt resist, ym1700
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Also..how the heck do I remove this overrun clutch on my PTO shaft..my bush hog shaft is too long and can't hook up..I need to remove the overrun clutch..I took the allen stud out but it won't come off.
 
   / couldnt resist, ym1700 #16  
Also..how the heck do I remove this overrun clutch on my PTO shaft..my bush hog shaft is too long and can't hook up..I need to remove the overrun clutch..I took the allen stud out but it won't come off.

If it is like the one I installed on my tractor you have to remove the grease fittings and turn the clutch until you see the pin align with the holes, Find something small enough to drive the pin through, you may have to catch hold of it with channel locks to pull all the way out,

Note: do not use a nail with a point because the point will go inside the pin and flair the end, resulting in only having one more chance of the pin having to be driven out the other side, I cut the end off an old screwdriver a little smaller than the pin and it worked perfectly, threw it in with the tractor tools, you never know when might have to remove it out in the field,

You really don't want to try using the bush hog without the OR clutch, especially with only one brake working,
Did you remove either end of the linkage rod before attempting to adjust it? Its almost imposable to do it while connected at both ends,

You can likely have the rod linkage repaired by welding it,
Put it back together with a but weld, and then sister a small pc of steal along side of the joint and weld together.
This should get you going until you locate another,
 
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   / couldnt resist, ym1700 #17  
Note: do not use a nail with a point because the point will go inside the pin and flair the end...

You really don't want to try using the bush hog without the OR clutch, especially with only one brake working,

You can likely have the rod linkage repaired by welding it,
Put it back together with a but weld, and then sister a small pc of steal along side of the joint and weld together.


I agree with everything deepNdirt said. Depending on where the linkage broke, you could even slide a sleeve of tubing over the rod, weld it up and have a permanent fix. If the threads broke, you could still sleeve the good end, and cut off the head of a metric bolt and weld that into the sleeve, assuming it's not a reverse threaded end.

On a few occasions I've had an adapter/overrun clutch rust onto the PTO shaft, and require a prybar and penetrating oil to help it slip off.
 
   / couldnt resist, ym1700
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Well I thought I fixed the temp issue but apparently not. Pulling a 4' bush hog the 1700 ran up to 235 degrees..I idled down and it cooled off..I cleaned and flushed the radiator good last weekend..probably only used 10% antifreeze and 90% distilled water..ran it at 2000 rpm in L gear 3...what's going on here !

Should I do the water pump mod? If so what pump fits, ym2000?
 
   / couldnt resist, ym1700 #19  
I think you need not only a standard YM2000 pump but also a special adapter kit to attach it to. Hoye etc should have everything.

But - patching around a problem won't solve it. That tractor is rated to run at full load indefinitely without overheating or other sign of stress. If it won't, something still doesn't meet spec.
 
   / couldnt resist, ym1700
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Could it be as simple as a radiator cap? What # replacement do i need..that will be a cheap fix
 
 
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