Couple of tricks for your failed Fuel Shutoff Solenoid on a Deutz

   / Couple of tricks for your failed Fuel Shutoff Solenoid on a Deutz #1  

woodlandfarms

Super Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2006
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6,118
Location
Los Angeles / SW Washington
Tractor
PowerTrac 1850, Kubota RTV x900
So mine was failing prior to the belt slip. Thankfully failing ON so the tracot would run, it just would not shut off (which is rare for this solenoid to do).

Anyway, while dealing with my other issues, I decided to replace it. Went to Deutz, and $300. Staggering. It is on Ebay for $100. Granted, Chinese knockoffs but there are so many to choose from I assume that this is not an ucnommon issue.

Anyway, it left me with a conundrum. If I order, it would take a week. And the tracor would not run with the Sollenoid in (when I took it out it gave up the ghost, thankfully itc clicks when working so I knew it had failed as it was no longer making any noise). So if I leave the solenoid out, I can still drive the tractor, just use manual shutoff lever. Problem is it leaves a hole in the back of your engine. I could machine a plate, but too much work. I instead just cut off the levers on the broken solenoid and re'installed. It sealed the back up and off we were to the races. I used a long screwdriver to actuate the lever, worked like a charm but not as convenient as a correct running engine.

Also, there seems to be a lot of different Solenoids that look the same. I learned you need to pull your old one to make get the correct serial number. Some dealers might go off the serial number of engine, others want he part directly.

Oh, taking the Solenoid off is no big deal. On mine, removed the fan belt and the tensioner (you need a 8mm Hex plus a 17mm box to remove). Behind it is the Solenoid, It comes out with 2 long 8mm bolts. Mine was in since the origin of the engine so it was a bit of a pill to get out (a "gentle tap") but you kind have to twist it and give it a push down to get it to come out as the arm i sticking into the engine. Putting back in, the same, angle it down to get the arm to go in and the straighten it up, push it in. I was told to hold the manual shut off lever down when inserting as it move all the linkage away and makes things easier to put in. 5 minute repair max.

Oh, the pictures. First is my solenoid I took the arms off. Second is the wires, this is where I think it failed.... Third is the manual shutoff lever.
 

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   / Couple of tricks for your failed Fuel Shutoff Solenoid on a Deutz
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I got so much oil, dirt twigs, leaves in the bottom of my tub. I need to figure out new cleaning method now that most of my oil leaks are fixed.
 
   / Couple of tricks for your failed Fuel Shutoff Solenoid on a Deutz #4  
Well, there is always the old standbys
  • Power wash with water
  • Power wash with degreaser
  • Compressed air
  • Paper towels
  • Leaf blower

Mostly, I find doing at least something every eight hours helps keep the level of debris down to the point that I don't worry about it catching fire.

With the California drought, my PT went four years without anything other than compressed air. It needs a serious wash down with detergent and wax. With all the rain and mud in Washington, I suspect that compressed air won't cut it.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Couple of tricks for your failed Fuel Shutoff Solenoid on a Deutz #5  
It looks like my number is up, and my solenoid seems to have failed. I haven't pulled it out yet to check for the Captain Obvious wire issues, but the only way to turn it off now is the manual cutoff lever.

Does anyone know if these ever repairable, or are the solenoids just toast, and not replaceable?

@woodlandfarms In the end did you buy it from a Deutz dealer, or off of eBay?

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Couple of tricks for your failed Fuel Shutoff Solenoid on a Deutz #6  
I am not sure that they still make the original solenoid. Some Deutz sites at least are now selling ones made in China. The reason the original one works so well is that it has two coils, one high power one to pull the shaft in, and a lower power one to hold it. The cheap ones only have the high power one. I have not had good luck with the cheap ones. They only seem to last 2 years.

Ken
 
   / Couple of tricks for your failed Fuel Shutoff Solenoid on a Deutz #7  
I am not sure that they still make the original solenoid. Some Deutz sites at least are now selling ones made in China. The reason the original one works so well is that it has two coils, one high power one to pull the shaft in, and a lower power one to hold it. The cheap ones only have the high power one. I have not had good luck with the cheap ones. They only seem to last 2 years.

Ken
Thanks! I was struck by the large power draw on some of the non-Deutz ones for sale. It did not seem like a reasonable number (3.4-3.8A). Where have you been getting yours?

Foley Engines seems to list an Deutz original ($331), but from an arm chair, I am not sure that I could tell Deutz vs. clone. I do see that there is a newer version (square solenoid electrical connection block on the solenoid body) and an older version with the wires permanently attached inside the solenoid).

Are these at all repairable?

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Couple of tricks for your failed Fuel Shutoff Solenoid on a Deutz
  • Thread Starter
#8  
You might want to check with a shop that rebuilds starters but my replacement solenoid sucks. Will only shut off if I drop one to idle.
 
   / Couple of tricks for your failed Fuel Shutoff Solenoid on a Deutz #9  
My F3M 2011 Deutz engine starts up when I activate the solenoid and l can switch it off within about 5 minutes after startup, but if it runs longer than 5 minutes, the solenoid won't shut the engine down and I must stop it manually.
Any advise here?
Is it possibly the solenoid is failing, or could one of the injectors be sticky and once the engine is hot, it prevents the fuel shut off rack to move?
 
   / Couple of tricks for your failed Fuel Shutoff Solenoid on a Deutz #10  
My F3M 2011 Deutz engine starts up when I activate the solenoid and l can switch it off within about 5 minutes after startup, but if it runs longer than 5 minutes, the solenoid won't shut the engine down and I must stop it manually.
Any advise here?
Is it possibly the solenoid is failing, or could one of the injectors be sticky and once the engine is hot, it prevents the fuel shut off rack to move?
Welcome to TBN! What kind of tractor do you have?

Most likely, the solenoid is dying.

The bad news is that the OEM solenoid is a two stage solenoid; high power to start, low power to stay on, and most of the after market solenoids are just a single coil at high amperage.

The OEM solenoid, comes in several versions, but with a 2011 engine, you probably want the "late model", 4103812 / 4287583, and it runs $350 and up. The aftermarket versions are $35. (If you have something other than a tractor, e.g. a JLG lift, you may need to match your part numbers carefully.)

FYI: nice summary over at Foley Engines.

Good luck.

All the best,

Peter
 
 
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