Cub cadet RZT 50 hydrostatic transmission

   / Cub cadet RZT 50 hydrostatic transmission #131  
The left tranny on my RZT 50 has stopped working completely. It started giving me problems around 75 hours. It has 250 now. Since I have to replace it, can I upgrade to a commercial model that can be serviced? I've tried contacting Hydro-Gear but have been ignored. Also, does anyone have a service manual for the transmission?

Thanks
Mark
 
   / Cub cadet RZT 50 hydrostatic transmission #132  
Newbie to this form. Just bought an older and very well-used - 800 hrs I think - Cub Cadet RZT 42 and it has the dreaded hydrostatic shut down when warm. I will drain and flush the hydros like other have demonstated earlier in this post - thanks to all for the great information.

While digesting all the recommendations, a question keeps coming forefront in my mind - has anyone refilled the units with 75-90 hypoid lube? Noticed that 20W50 is the preferred but would something heavier work even better? Is the hydro problem caused by the oil thinning when hot?? If so, 75-90 hypoid might do the trick.

Thanks in advance for all the responses.

Jake -
 
   / Cub cadet RZT 50 hydrostatic transmission #133  
Hopefully I can use all of this info to get my Cub working well enough to sell it. I bought it in 2011 with 300 hours on it. I almost loved it at first. My 1 acre of yard is the side of a hill. The mower cut great and when one rear tire got cut, I replaced both with knobby atv tires. It worked much better to turn and mow. I was happy with it that first season. The next season was full of problems. I replaced the blades and spindles, and it worked again for a bit, then I had to replace the deck belt. It seems everytime I use it something else breaks. I've replaced/rebuilt the spindles 3 times (once was due to a rock though). It is on it's fifth set of blades. Replaced all the deck pulleys. Last year I had to re-weld the deck pulley mounts, several times to get the right angle to not wreck the belt. As soon as I got the deck working right again, the left hydro started acting up. First it didn't want to go in reverse, then it had no power going forward. The season ended, and I put it away and forgot about it. I can say the briggs 22hp motor has never given me the slightest trouble, always starts and runs great.

Fast forward to this year with 380 hours on it. I got it out, changed the oil, lubed everything, replaced another spindle, replaced the blades, and mowed the small portion of yard that the grass has already started growing on. I promptly got stuck in a corner of the fence. I couldn't back up, and the left hydro wouldn't pivot it out up hill. I pulled it out and carefully finished the small area in the fence. I topped off the hydros fluid through the vent, and tested. It didn't seem to make any difference. The left hydro still doesn't have much power. Once moving it will go full speed, but doesn't like to get going. I intend to pull both hydros out, drain and flush the fluid, and put them back in with a new 57" belt after reading several forum pages on the subject. Hopefully it will take care of the problem, and I can sell it with a clear conscience.

Anyway, even while I loved it that first season, (it was a huge step up from the old junky rider I had), I always thought it was not right for my place. It just never worked quite right with my yard on a hill. I believe it would work a lot better on a flat, more open, yard. I went out an bought an older, 1995, John Deere 345 with a liquid cooled 18hp kawasaki motor, power steering, and hydrostatic drive for just less than I paid for the cub 4 years ago. So I'm going to try and fix the cub up to work good again and sell it. Hopefully I can get $1,000 out of it without having to replace a hydro. What do you all think, as I would expect most of you have much more experience than I with these things.
 
   / Cub cadet RZT 50 hydrostatic transmission #134  
I pulled both hydros out, which was very easy compared to many other projects I've had. I flushed the RH hydro with ATF and refilled with 20w-50 engine oil, all in 1 hour and 15 minutes. Started on the LH Hydro, and couldn't get fluid to come out more than a trickle. So I pulled the case half off, inspected all the gears, cleaned it up, unplugged the plastic cover that blocks the vent chamber, and put it back together. Flushed the LH with ATF and filled with 20w-50. Purged both units and re-installed. I also installed the shorter 57" drive belt and made sure the tensioner was good. The problem is better, but I still can't go up hill or turn up hill to the right. The LH hydro is still a problem. Hopefully someone will want to buy it and I can just get rid of it. I did find replacement internal parts, which look to be around $300 for the pump and motor. I also found a place that will sell both hydros complete for $600. I just don't want to put the money into it if I can't get it back out selling it.

I've read that they have a life expectancy of 250 hours total, which for a $3,000 (+tax) mower seems ridiculous to me. My one acre yard accumulated 20 hours a season for me, which says this mower would last approximately 12 years from new. So NOT including all the belts, blades, spindles, services, and other headaches this mower has an operating cost of over $300 a summer. This is not a quality machine and not worth it. I can't say how well the original owner took care of it, he said he had it serviced every spring, and winterized every fall by the dealership, and he lived in a very expensive neighborhood down in the cities. I bought it from him, and did everything I could to keep it in good shape, including blowing off the deck and hydros after every time I mowed.
 
   / Cub cadet RZT 50 hydrostatic transmission #135  
I had issues like those mentioned above with my 2004 RZT 50. I replaced 2 drive belts and the second one only lasted 20 minutes. The bottom of the belt (small part of the V) was ground off. The belt had stretched enough that the idler pulley was grinding into the frame bracket that keeps the PTO from turning. After much trial and error I noticed the drive pulley was shiny on the sides and in the bottom of the pulley indicating that it was slipping. I replaced the drive pulley and both hydrostats were working again but only at about 85 percent. I looked at both of the pulleys on top of the hydrostats and noticed they were becoming shiny too. I am going to replace both of those and I believe the hydos will be back to normal. Hope this saves someone the frustration I went through.
 
   / Cub cadet RZT 50 hydrostatic transmission #136  
I have a Troy Bilt 50" RZT Mustang which is basically the same and I am trying to remove the transmission for inspection--here is issue the 1/2" square hole on the idler arm is partially under the idler pulley!!! Now how the heck are you supposed to get a breaker bar or extension in a hole that is partially covered?

Anyone have any other way to relieve the tension on the drive idler arm?
 
   / Cub cadet RZT 50 hydrostatic transmission #137  
Does anybody have a part number for a seal kit for a EZT? I'm going to attempt to repair my weak left side unit very soon. I have read every word on this thread at least 3 times, got the service manual on line too. If anyone has any pictures tips, or tricks, I'm all ears.
 
   / Cub cadet RZT 50 hydrostatic transmission #138  
I have a Troy Bilt 50" RZT Mustang which is basically the same and I am trying to remove the transmission for inspection--here is issue the 1/2" square hole on the idler arm is partially under the idler pulley!!! Now how the heck are you supposed to get a breaker bar or extension in a hole that is partially covered?

Anyone have any other way to relieve the tension on the drive idler arm?

I pulled the spring off. There is a hole in the chassis conveniently located right behind it. Using a homemade exhaust spring puller it was easy.
 
   / Cub cadet RZT 50 hydrostatic transmission #139  
Hi, new member here. I have been reading this thread and I have the same problems with my rzt 50 . I would like to know if it is possible to drill and tap the bottom of the case and if so what location to drill without taking the trans apart and would you need to drill two holes as I understand there is two compartments in each trans? I just looked at my hour meter and was supprised to see I have just over 750 hours on my machine. I bought it used several years ago. Great thread btw.
 
   / Cub cadet RZT 50 hydrostatic transmission #140  
You would need to put 2 holes in, but I can't remember if there is enough material to do it. Mine was pretty easy to simply take both transmissions out, Taking the case half off only required a little cleaning and silicone to put back together. But, unless it is plugged like one of mine were, you shouldn't need to take them apart. Just dump out the fill hole, refill, run with a drill driving in both directions to flush, drain, refill, and purge air out.
 
 
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