Custom tire width issue

[jschreib26]

Thanks again for all these great ideas! I'm pretty new to this, so I have to read all these posts several times to figure out what's being said. But eventually it sinks in.... As CliffordK mentioned, the brakes are definitely an issue; they are too close to the mount and so (along with the clutch) would hit if I reversed the mounts. But I did jack the front end up and, sure enough, the tire has a clear arc to turn (on one side anyway -- on the other it comes close to some hydraulic lines, but I think I can use the steering stop for that) when I push the axle down as far as it goes. So, I'm excited to proceed with raising the front axle an inch or so. Am trying to find a piece of steel (any ideas on where to look for that?) and will probably have to have someone help me drill holes in in. Without taking the bolts out, is there some way for me to tell (from the head, perhaps) just what size holes I'll have to drill? I may also have to get longer bolts. And I think I'll bolt on some extenders for the tilt stops.
I'm relieved this (fingers crossed) seems like a reasonable fix, as the budget does not allow for something more extensive this year! Will let you all know how it goes...

 

[powerpace]

Are your growing beds permanent?

 

[CliffordK]

Is it possible that a wider axle from the next size large machine could be swapped in which would reduce the scrub radius back closer to stock?

How wide are the spacers (or chance in rim offset) you've added?

Good idea of a wider axle. It may be a fault of the "compact" tractor design, and could be problematic with many of the smaller tractors, and narrow/wide design so finding a wider front end may be a problem. You would need to match the differential gearing for the 4x4. Were the tire sizes already changed? Is that a problem?

One could, of course, rebuild the axle to be wider, but that would be a pain.

For dropping the front axle,
Don't forget the Front & Rear Mounts (Photos from my Ford 1715)


At least my steering appears to be 100% hydraulic, so moving it slightly shouldn't be a problem.
There should be some play with the 4x4 driveline, but that could be an issue if it needed lengthening.

 

[jschreib26]

Wondering if, from these pictures, it seems to anyone that the 4x4 driveline might be affected from raising the axle 1.5 inches? You guys have better eyes than I do!

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Having lifted many trucks (but never a tractor) my guess is that you should be ok assuming that there is a universal joint under that rubber boot in the last picture, another u-joint at the other end of the driveshaft and there is more than a couple inches of overlap of the splines in the drive shaft.

Looking at the third pic, what is the vertical spacing between the lower two bolts that attach to the axle housing? Without being able to see the tractor in person, I would suggest trying that distance as your initial test. Make/get a block that thickness -- even a chunk of hardwood lumber would work -- drill it to fit the front mount and install it with longer bolts. On the rear mounts, just use the bottom hole in the frame bracket with the top hole in the axle housing, leaving the bottom hole empty. This will easily and temporarily give you some lift that you can see if it will have the desired effect. DO NOT DRIVE THE TRACTOR LIKE THIS - ONLY CYCLE THE STEERING/AXLE FOR CLEARANCES. This will give you the chance to check other things like length of the hydraulic hoses on the steering, drive shaft binding and slip engagement, anything else that may be an issue, and obviously the tire clearances.

If this works, great, you can move forward with more durable modifications. If it doesn't work, not a whole lot has been invested and very easily reversible. It may also show you that you could get by with less lift - or may need more than you thought. Use as little of lift as you can get away with.

One minor (?) thought, as this mod will change the rake of the tractor, you will also want to make sure that the bucket will still sit on the ground with the lifted front end. I know some tractors have very little down travel from flat.

 

[foote2floor]

What part of the tire is hitting the loader mount? Could you just trim the edges of the lugs of the tires?

 

[the old grind]

........
If this works, great, you can move forward with more durable modifications. If it doesn't work, not a whole lot has been invested and very easily reversible. It may also show you that you could get by with less lift - or may need more than you thought. Use as little of lift as you can get away with.
.......

Good idea to start by using the existing bolt spacing, but I also agree that using the least lift would be best & it might be a bit much o'all. (btw: Pretty sure there's U-joints at both ends of the D-shaft.) I was all set to say use longer side plates till I saw the welds on 'em.

Regardless of what any amount lift will do it will be 'adjustments' to the tilt stops that determines clearance as much as anything. At the expense of a tad of articulation (matter pulling your implements?) you could add a smidge more to them that to the axle brackets.

Welding (not my bag) and re-drilling (my bag) the sideplate holes for a small lift (<1"?) doesn't look good with so little steel to work with. It'd take many beads (not my bag) to thru-weld what might could be drilled through (my bag) if he added stubs to them. He could grind/burn the OEM welds off to weld on longer plates (I'd make em thicker, too), but there you'd be guessing how much lift was desired ... unless mebbe tweaking the tilt stops first helped a lot there. (Sets of holes?)

IIRC, you do need the short turn radius for your crops, but do you need all the articulation you have now?

 

[CliffordK]

By the way, these showed up on E-Bay.
I wasn't really looking for steel. I don't remember what my search was for.

2 Pieces CRS 1 1 2" x 2" x 8 1 8" Long Cold Roll Steel | eBay

But, they may be the right size to give you 1.5" to 2" of lift.

Seller says he can cut longer (this may be sized for easy shipping).

Angles will be different when lifting a pickup by 2" and a tractor differential by 2", but it all depends on how much "extra" Ford/New Holland put in the splines of the driveline. Since the tractor doesn't have springs, the natural movement of the joint would have been minimal, so they may not have given a person a lot of "extra".

 

[jschreib26]

Thanks for the ideas, and for the leads on steel CliffordK. With a little warm weather here, things are getting busy. Was out on the tractor all day yesterday though, and now want to take care of this issue as soon as possible -- the reduced turning radius makes for real slow going, with a lot of back and forth!