Decisions decisions - please educate me so I make the right purchase.

[jeff9366]

TennesseeBill

I have a couple of new questions:

1. I have read about tire ballast and the different types from water to beet juice. One dealer offers tire ballast standard. Is "loading" tires a good idea? What harm outside of rust can it do and would that be offset by the advantages?

Only rear tires are ballasted. Front axle is too light and pivots, so fronts are not ballasted. Power steering is not designed for loaded front tires.

Rear tires are almost always ballasted 3/4 full for tractor work on slopes. This lowers tractor center-of-gravity on slopes. Liquid covers internal hub so hub is continually submerged. Tractors have no suspension other than air in the tires. If tires are filled 100% ride is terrible and traction degraded because rear tire flex is degraded.

If you buy a high powered tractor, say 4,000 pounds bare tractor with 60-horsepower engine, loading tires will improve traction. Alternative is bolt-on cast iron wheel weights for traction on level ground. Sometimes both liquid and wheel weights are installed. Liquid and cast iron have advantages/disadvantages to each. But for slopes, to improve stability, 3/4 liquid is better than cast iron.

If you run tractor over hard surface roads at high speeds, 14 to 18 miles per hour, loaded rear tires (1,400 pounds) can negatively influence handling and braking. If you get a puncture, you lose the liquid. Changing liquid filled rear tires is at least a two person, sweaty, potentially hazardous job @ 700 pounds per rear wheel.

All three of my tractors have had rear tires filled only with air. I minimally compact soil; a tenant of sustainable agriculture. When I need ballast weight I mount a Cultipacker or Box Blade on the Three Point Hitch for counterbalance. My Three Point Hitch weight can be removed. Weight cantilevered on the Three Point Hitch is more effective counterbalance weight than rear tire weight on the rear axle.

A heavy tractor with air filled R4/industrial rear tires may still traverse lawns in 2-WD without marking; loading the rear tires usually marks/ruts lawns. ( I never mark/rut lawns with my 5,400 pound Kubota L3560 with air filled R4/industrial rear tires in 2-WD.)

Rear tire chains, rubber or steel, are a neglected option for improving tire traction in fields. I have no experience with chains as my tractor has a modest 37-horsepower engine. However, T-B-N correspondents who use tire chains are fans.


2. I keep reading about remotes. I believe they are additional high pressure hydraulic lines for other implements!? Should get remotes with the tractor and if so how many? I guess they would power something like a backhoe?

Backhoes and most other powered implements obtain power mechanically from the PTO. PTO powers a pump integral to Backhoe, one reason Backhoes are $8,000. (Hydraulic pumps integral to CUT tractors have very low flow rates.) Nothing you have written thus far establishes a need for a Backhoe, which must be removed to access the Three Point Hitch.

Rear remotes primarily for adding hydraulic Three Point Hitch Top Link and right Lifting Rod adjustment from the tractor operating station. (two remotes) This allows changes in implement rake (Top Link) and implement tilt (right Lifting Rod). These two adjustments require minimal hydraulic flow. Alternative is to get off the tractor and turn.screw in the adjustments manually at the Three Point Hitch via Top Link and right Lifting Rod.

Big Ag tractors pulling complicated implements like combines often have 6-8 rear remotes. Big Ag tractors have high capacity auxiliary hydraulic pumps for implements.

If you install a FEL grapple you need a front remote to hydraulically open and close the grapple jaws.

Price remotes. Buy if you think they are a value in your situation. You have quite a bit of land. I do not think rear remotes are too much more expensive installed later, but consult your dealer.


3. What about rear SCVs?
Do not abbreviate. What is an SCV?


4. How much consideration should be given to the weight of the tractor? I keep reading the weight really determines the max of certain things you can do. So I guess if deciding between different tractors and everything being somewhat equal should weight be a large part of the decision if there is a significant difference? I hope that is clear.

Tractor weight should be the first decision you reach. Weight means thicker steel, less subject to bending when tractor is doing heavy work or you inadvertently bash a tree. Weight equals traction. You need a tractor of at least 4,000 pounds bare weight; 6,000 pounds bare tractor weight not too much.

Horsepower second, when determining width of PTO powered implements you will use. Rotary Cutters and Roto-tillers are PTO powered implements.


5. I normally do not get extended warranties on items I buy, including vehicles as I tend to find they are never used unless you misuse something and then the warranty might not be enforceable. What about tractors though?

Tractor warranties are not inclusive like car warranties. Most of what owners feel should be warranty repairs are categorized as operator error and not covered under tractor warranties.
Kubota sponsored and highly regarded $400/year KTAC (Kubota Tractor Acceptance Corporation) insurance covers most repairs; less $250 deductible. I have used my KTAC insurance twice, much more than offsetting $400/year cost.


6. Is a cab is worth the extra money?

In fields yes, for some. In woods, fragile. $8,000 with heat and A/C. It is your money.
(As a newbie is is probable you would damage a cab repeatedly during first 400 engine hours, learning to operate your tractor.)

New tractor cost $37,000 to $55,000, plus implements and attachments. (Cab + Backhoe = $16,000.)

 

[jeff9366]

I appreciate the information on the Hay King Renovator and the chain harrow. So would I use the chain harrow first and then the renovator? Looks like the chain harrow basically sweeps up all the dead organic material and puts some holes in the ground while the renovator cuts deeper furrows for deeper aeration. Regardless, I will look into these and ask others in the area about this.
Not sure which type of fence is used for cross fencing but I will need an auger for the perimeter fence.

Chain Harrow at least monthly ~~ depends on cattle density. Chain Harrow is a form of rake. Chain Harrow gradually fills field depressions.

Hay King SLICES 6" deep; it does not furrow. Once per year, changing direction ninety degrees each year.

Why did you say 1/8 acre max for the garden? What tools would I look at for garden area?
I did check out some videos on a ratchet rake and am really impressed with what it can do. Although, I don't like the way they attach to the bucket, should be an easier/quicker way.

1/8th acre will feed a vegetarian family of eight with enough left over veggies and soft fruits to give away. Kitchen gardens are extremely time intensive. Few farmers have gardens. Farmers and Ranchers buy groceries at Walmart because their time is too valuable to cultivate a labor intensive kitchen garden.

Commercial vegetable and fruit gardens are viable at one acre, if produce is sold direct to consumers at Farmer's Market. Good demand for organic produce. Good growing and marketing experience for teen children ~~ let them retain ALL the sale proceeds or they will lose interest fast.

You might want a Three Point Hitch Single Row Cultivator or a Tool Bar Cultivator ~ (Photo #1).
However, a two-wheeled tractor or cultivator is likely optimum. BCS, Gravely, Mantis, etc.

Ratchet Rake is one of my favorite attachments. It attaches quickly and easily to FEL bucket.


Wow I was looking at the Mighty Muts Utility Trailers. In addition to being stable and agile the uses are endless.

You can pull trailers behind your tractor with a Three Point Hitch A-Frame (Photo #2) but most transport tractor loads in FEL bucket. MUTS is the Gold Standard in manual-dump trailers.

Polar (brand) poly trailer from Home Depot/internet sales is much cheaper ~ Photo #3. Polar does not fully empty.
MORE POLAR: Polar trailer site:tractorbynet.com - Google Search


My driveway is gravel. I need to look at more videos and see what the blade and FEL advantages and disadvantages are. I would rather not get more than I need or can use.

You cannot have too much FEL lift capacity.

For gravel drive maintenance you want a Land Plane/Grading Scraper (LPGS) which "recovers" gravel.
Rear remotes are unnecessary to operate a LPGS, one of the easiest Three Point Hitch implements to learn.
VIDEO: tractor land plane grading scraper - YouTube


What is considered a DeLuxe tractor and do options on them add any NEEDED improvement?

Options add to productivity, HST/PLUS transmission foremost. Kubota 'Grand L' models are DeLuxe tractors. LS XR4000 series are DeLuxe tractors, but only Kubota has HST/PLUS.

A DeLuxe tractor may save you a heart attack or stroke on a hot day. How fit are you? How is your blood pressure/blood sugar? What does ten days in the hospital followed by two months rehab cost? Farm/tractor work is strenuous.

LINK: Kubota Grand l site:tractorbynet.com - Google Search

 

[plowhog]

You are getting some very good advice. I have a Massey Ferguson 1758 tractor that specs out very much like what you are looking at, or what has been suggested. 58hp, operating on a 90 acre property. I have a Woods 8ft twin spindle brush hog, and a box scraper. I also have a Massey GC1710 for a smaller 2 acre property.

I bought a cab model for the bigger tractor and added the air ride suspension seat. For me, those two features have made a great difference in comfort and utility. The increased comfort lets me work longer hours in a day. My pasture in both properties is uneven, and it is bumpy to brush hog. Temps can exceed 100F on both properties. The bigger property has lots of bugs at certain times of the year. With the cab model, I can brush hog with a great deal more comfort-- while watching all the bugs, debris, and dust swirl outside of the cab and away from me. So if there is a dealer in your area I would kick tires on a Massey tractor in addition to the others. And maybe consider a cab. Some say a cab in the woods is a liability, which is probably somewhat true. But for me, it means being much more slow and careful when using my cab tractor in the woods. I'd rather be more slow and careful in the woods with a cab than not have a cab when brush hogging the pasture.

Here is another option to consider for trailers. I bought one and they are very well built:

Berkelmans Welding Hydraulic Farm Dump Trailers and Manure Haulers

 

[bspeedy]

Please consider a multi-tractor approach to your large acreage. You will find that some tasks are best suited to a 65 hp tractor with a cab and some are better with a smaller open station machine. I have three tractors (and an excavator) for my 53 acres. Each has their role to play. My wife can operate all the tractors. Some of them are used weekly, some sit for longer. Excavator may run three days in a row and then sit for a month. Sometimes all are used in the same day (or all day).

One tractor would be too limiting. I'm thinking a 60-80 hp cabbed tractor, 4x4, FEL with 8-10 foot brush hog, large disc harrow, any other tillage / hay implements.

Second tractor would be 35-45 hp, CUT, preferably with FEL and 4x4, (backhoe attachment, maybe) open station. This one has a smaller rotary cutter and is used for lighter chores, working in the woods, or doing anything that requires smaller size or lighter footprint.

With that much acreage, I can certainly see how a backhoe attachment or even a mini excavator could be handy. I just picked up a mower for my mini ex. The mini ex is useful for taking down dead trees safely, trail creation and maintenance, stump removal, ditching, and - now - mowing ditch banks and trimming along trails.

I know this sounds like a huge bite to take, but you don't have to buy all at once. Since you keep your cars for years, that tells me that you know how to do basic maintenance and also how to operate machines with care and with long term durability in mind. I'd start with the 35-45 hp tractor and a 6-foot brush hog and see what you can get done with that, unless you are in a hurry. A good second hand machine is a great choice for someone who is fairly handy. Use it for a year. Make (hopefully small and inexpensive) mistakes with it over that period of time. Figure out what you really need a tractor to do and how big that machine should be.

Step two is to keep that tractor and then add a larger tractor (or excavator, bulldozer, side by side, excavator) as dictated by your needs that will develop over the initial stages of owning and managing your property.

It really takes a year or two to figure out what you want / need. I've owned my rural property for 7 years and I feel like I finally have the nearly ideal arsenal of equipment and know how to tackle anything my wife can dream up. :thumbsup:

Sure would be nice to have a dump truck, though...

The list never ends.

 

[bspeedy]

...and right on cue, check out this thread:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/386838-sunk-kubota-3.html

Been there, done that.

 

[ericm979]

SCV is Selective Control Valve, also known as rear hydraulic remote valves. It's often cheaper get them with the tractor than to add them later. If you get one or more and the option is available, get at least one with float. It costs $100-200 more but some implements need it. (float is a detent positon that allows the cylinder to move in and out on its own. Most loaders have a float position for the cylinders that raise the loader).

 

[coherent]

It looks like you've received some great advice. With that much property, I would hesitate to rent anything that you will need more than once or twice (like a brush hog cause it will grow back). If nothing else look for used implements and save some money. Not having to pick up and return implements and having it "right now" when needed is a big plus IMO.