Diesel fuel Injector pump leaking into crankcase?

[gabmux]

This is the one I used, there are cheaper ones now.


And I used this filter before the electric pump.

Thanks much Mr Rooks! Those links you posted are just what I needed to see.

 

[piper184]

Yes, the cylinder with the red mounting strap is a 1000W tank heater. Will bring the head from -30F up to above freezing in about an hour. Real necessity here.

The banjo style ends are just crimped onto the hoses like any other hose end. Probably technically a 6mm fitting but will work just fine with 1/4" hose. I used a cut off wheel in the Dremel and removed the ferrel then it just pulled out of the hose. To re-use the end, a small regular hose clamp works just fine especially considering the low pressure application.

The OEM sediment bowl had a plastic bowl that quickly got cloudy and hard to see through, plus the valve leaked. I bought an aftermarket upgrade kit from Ranchhand Supply. As it turned out the tank was tapped 1/4" NPT so I added the two street elbows to move the bowl for easier access.

The electric fuel pump upgrade came later. The pump is an old style "clicker" pump that I had bought for a gas vehicle way back in the 1980's but never used. The box it came in had long been lost so I had no instructions and no idea if it was compatible with diesel. Installed it anyway and it has been working fine for many years.

The output hose goes to the secondary filter housing, where I removed the banjo end from the old hose and reused it on the new one. The last picture is the OEM setup when I was assembling it from the crate. I had already swapped out the blue OEM filter for a new NAPA Gold unit. You wouldn't believe the stuff that they called fuel that came in the tractor. All fluids were drained and flushed prior to re-filling with quality domestic products before it was started for the first time.

 

[gabmux]

Yes, the cylinder with the red mounting strap is a 1000W tank heater. Will bring the head from -30F up to above freezing in about an hour. Real necessity here.

The banjo style ends are just crimped onto the hoses like any other hose end. Probably technically a 6mm fitting but will work just fine with 1/4" hose. I used a cut off wheel in the Dremel and removed the ferrel then it just pulled out of the hose. To re-use the end, a small regular hose clamp works just fine especially considering the low pressure application.

The OEM sediment bowl had a plastic bowl that quickly got cloudy and hard to see through, plus the valve leaked. I bought an aftermarket upgrade kit from Ranchhand Supply. As it turned out the tank was tapped 1/4" NPT so I added the two street elbows to move the bowl for easier access.

The electric fuel pump upgrade came later. The pump is an old style "clicker" pump that I had bought for a gas vehicle way back in the 1980's but never used. The box it came in had long been lost so I had no instructions and no idea if it was compatible with diesel. Installed it anyway and it has been working fine for many years.

The output hose goes to the secondary filter housing, where I removed the banjo end from the old hose and reused it on the new one. The last picture is the OEM setup when I was assembling it from the crate. I had already swapped out the blue OEM filter for a new NAPA Gold unit. You wouldn't believe the stuff that they called fuel that came in the tractor. All fluids were drained and flushed prior to re-filling with quality domestic products before it was started for the first time.

Thanks much for great photos! Your repair work looks very professional in my opinion.

Thanks to your experience, creative ideas and photos and all the contributions from Mr Rooks and others at this site, I now at least have a repair plan in mind.

My fuel bowl valve is leaking too. I found that out when removing lift pump. I looked up Ranch Hand Supply as you suggested. I also found similar one at Affordable Tractor Sales.



I assembled my tractor from crated parts also. But I’ve never separated the engine from the tractor.

I don’t know how the clutch/pressure plate assembly is attached exactly. I would assume it would be similar to car/truck engines here. I would like to swap this engine before I get too old to move around.

My other concern is that the engine block itself seems to be holding the whole tractor together.

Have you had any experience removing your tractor’s engine? Like maybe you had to change a clutch plate or something?



Anyway thanks much again for sharing your knowledge and ideas. And for all of your time spent writing here. I am truly grateful.

 

[piper184]

When I was in high school I helped my dad split an old Case VAC tractor to replace the main seal. That was quite an ordeal since we didn't have any decent shop equipment. Getting the engine out of a tractor with a frame should be a lot easier. Especially now 50 years later when I own an engine hoist and lots of floor jacks and jack stands. However, I am glad that I have not had to do that kind of thing recently.

Just a matter of figuring out what comes off and what stays and how to hold it up.

Oh yeah, and LOTS of pictures as you go. We would never had considered such a thing back in the days when you had to send film in the mail and wait two weeks for the pictures to come back....

 

[Bob Rooks]

We would never had considered such a thing back in the days when you had to send film in the mail and wait two weeks for the pictures to come back....

One of my first ever jobs, working for a film developing lab - picking up and delivering film and photos in grocery and drug stores up and down the San Fransisco Peninsula in an old Jeep.

 

[gabmux]

One of my first ever jobs, working for a film developing lab - picking up and delivering film and photos in grocery and drug stores up and down the San Fransisco Peninsula in an old Jeep.

Cool! What a fun job that must have been! I only lived as close to that as Alameda, CA for a little over a year, but I sure enjoyed that area. The weather was always nice there in my opinion anyway. I went back to that area on vacation maybe 10 years ago. Everything had changed since I lived there in the early 70’s.

A lot of the Naval bases had been shut down. Even Treasure Island Naval base had become a ghost town.

 

[gabmux]

When I was in high school I helped my dad split an old Case VAC tractor to replace the main seal. That was quite an ordeal since we didn't have any decent shop equipment. Getting the engine out of a tractor with a frame should be a lot easier. Especially now 50 years later when I own an engine hoist and lots of floor jacks and jack stands. However, I am glad that I have not had to do that kind of thing recently.

Just a matter of figuring out what comes off and what stays and how to hold it up.

Oh yeah, and LOTS of pictures as you go. We would never had considered such a thing back in the days when you had to send film in the mail and wait two weeks for the pictures to come back....

Thanks much for reply! That sounds like good advice to me. I don’t have an engine hoist yet, but will probably just pick one up from Harbor Freight when I am ready. It’s just too cold for me to work outside now that I’m retired. Lol

I ordered a fuel bowl assembly that looks like it might fit from Affordable. I know he’s been around these Chinese tractor sites for quite a while. But I think this is the first time I’ve ordered any parts from his website.

 

[piper184]

They have a good reputation.