Tires Diff between R1 and R4 tires?

[SPYDERLK]

Got that right Doall, had they had AG R1's as wide as the R4's, I would have gone R1s.

Today, I'd swap my R4s for R1s in a heart beat.

The names say it all, R1 or Agricultural and R4 or Industrial. Which sounds like it should be used on a farm, homestead, or in the woods? :laughing:

Just to offer my two cents (since somehow our government has made my two cents worth less than two cents) once R4 tires loose the nice sharp edge they do really poorly in the dirt on my Case BH. Anythign with the slightest slope had to be dry or it would just sit and spin requiring me to use the FEL or BH to pull myself up. Once I replaced them it was day and night difference.

I've only had the brand new Ags on my 4240 so maybe when they are worn they wont perform as well but as for now I'm very impressed with them. I think R4 sell the best because it's an in between tire for those who are not sure what they are going to do with their tractor or will be doing a lot of loader work. After all if you ask a dealer which tire and he has R4 on the lot he's going to say "they sell the best".

You really dont have a good basis to know what traction is until you go from R4 to R1 on the same tractor. You get that chance if you listen to the dealer. Even with the cost of the switch its worth it.
larry

 

[troutsqueezer]

Brain fart: There may be an advantage to limited traction. Let's say you engage the FEL on one side only, perhaps digging out a large boulder at an angle or shaving off the side of a hill as you make a road. We've all heard the stories about bending the FEL by meeting an immovable object off center. If the tractor has "enhanced" traction (read R1 tires), it seems to me the chances of bending the FEL have increased. Slippage may be a good thing in some instances. Sorta like the clutch on your handy dandy Ryobi drill/driver.

As to the poster's Case tractor just sitting and spinning in anything other than dry dirt on a slope, well...that's just Crazy Al. Mine goes uphill in the mud all day long. Course, that's why God invented 4 Wheel Drive. :laughing:

 

[wny770]

I went from R1 to R4......... I still don't get it. The R1's were TEARING up my grassy fields, and since I have 2 other tractors with R-1's, I figured I try. I switched and the only difference so far is...... I can't tell. Mind you, I don't plan on driving in a foot of mud, but we had 8" of wet snow last week and I didn't even put my NH T1510 in 4WD. The rears are loaded.... maybe that's the difference? (I do enjoy the debate, though)

 

[wolc123]

The argument that reduced traction of the R4 tire may limit damage to a loader really does not hold water. The same thing may be said of 2wd vs 4wd which also reduces traction with a loader (by aproximately the same ammount as R4 tires compared to R1's). The reality is, that loaders are often damaged more on 2wd's than 4wd's because operators use momentum to compensate for the lack of traction. The impact forces generated by that momentum are far more damaging to the loader, and the rest of the tractor, than the higher average but lower peak forces that can be applied smoothly thanks to improved traction. Your best bet to keep from damaging your loader is to maximize the traction potential of your tractor. That means 4wd AND R1 tires. Limiting traction is almost always going to get you into trouble more often than it helps you stay out of it.

 

[gerard]

I would question why the vast majority of tires sold on CUT's is R-4's, It seems like the manufacturers have an opinion, and it speaks volumns

I wouldn't read too much into that other than the R4 is a good general purpose tire. Better on grass, stronger sidewalls for loader work than R1's, not as good traction in deep mud. (Please don't even try to argue this point logically, it really is not debatable).

If you never get into deep mud and that won't be an issue, get the R4's. If you do a fair amount of field work with deep muddy conditions and don't have a golf course for your house grass, I'd go with R1's. Not really rocket science. Different tires have different purposes and all have their pros and cons, that's why they're DIFFERENT!

 

[doall]

I wouldn't read too much into that other than the R4 is a good general purpose tire. Better on grass, stronger sidewalls for loader work than R1's, not as good traction in deep mud. (Please don't even try to argue this point logically, it really is not debatable).

If you never get into deep mud and that won't be an issue, get the R4's. If you do a fair amount of field work with deep muddy conditions and don't have a golf course for your house grass, I'd go with R1's. Not really rocket science. Different tires have different purposes and all have their pros and cons, that's why they're DIFFERENT!

best post yet. Can't argue with the traction.

 

[TGF]

I would like to state for the record that my R4's are the best working tire, and best looking tire because they are what is on my tractor. Should I ever replace those R4's with R1's, the R1's I get will be even better than my R4's that were better than your R1's or R4's that are not the same brand. Please do not attempt to tell me that your tires are better than mine because I assure you they are not, and I really do not enjoy telling everyone else how bad their tire choice was. I hope this clears things up for everyone. In summary, my tires are the best, and your tires are not the best.

 

[jake98]

..and now a word from the safety police..
that video 'twiching' showed the exact wrong way to drag a heavy object..
..and now back to our regularly scheduled tire program

 

[tungularafishcamp]

Here is the correct way to pull a heavy object.
YouTube - albanian mad tractor rider

watch and learn:laughing:
Rick

 

[milkman636]

Between the two videos I would rather work with twiching. He was in control of what was happening and he got the job done. I don't think he was making an OSHA safety training video. It looks like he was just making good use of a nice wet day in the woods.