Once again, you guys came to the rescue. I've checked my catalogs and both Northern Tool and Tractor Supply offer sub soilers and middle busters. I'm guessing that a sub soiler is what I want. I can't see my little tractor pulling a 14 inch wide furrower through caliche; however, if I set the 3/4 inch wide sub soiler shank fairly shallow, I should be able to get through just about anything. I think I'll make myself a shovel like the one our carpenters used to clean out the trenches for footings. They took a standard (cheap) spade and cut off the sides until the spade was only about 4 inches wide. That made a spade that was perfect to reach into narrow spaces after the rebar was in place. I suspect a spade like this would be perfect to clean out a trench after I went over it a few times with the subsoiler. Thanks again for the information.
Digging a trench
- Thread starter GlennT
- Start date
Bird
Epic Contributor
<font color=blue>They took a standard (cheap) spade and cut off the sides until the spade was only about 4 inches wide</font color=blue>
Did they actually cut it off, or did they just buy a "sharpshooter" to start with?
Did they actually cut it off, or did they just buy a "sharpshooter" to start with?
jinman
Rest in Peace
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Bird, I don't know for sure, but I suspect they used an actual shovel because I have one made from a long-handled shovel. It's about 3-1/2" to 4" wide after being cut. The short handle sharp-shooter makes you have to bend over too far to clean out a trench. This "slightly modified" shovel works great and is actually cheaper than most sharp-shooters.
JimI
JimI
Bird
Epic Contributor
JimI, OK, I know what you're talking about (and it is different from what I always called a sharpshooter). I see in Tractor Supply Co. catalog that they call my sharpshooter a 16" Drain shovel (item #44-12047) and then they also have what you're talking about, called a 4" Trenching shovel (item #44-13035) - comes with the sides already cut off and the longer handle - that's the way they're made. Either one is $19.99 on page 14 of the 2001 Blue Book. And they also have the "Drain" with the fiberglass handle for $26.98, which is what I have.
Turfman
Platinum Member
A vibratory plow can be rented and works great with the poly pipe (the black stuff that comes on rolls). If you are using PVC (the stiffer white pipe) you will probably want to trench it with a small trencher. If you get one, I like a 4 inch rather than a 3 inch, I can get the fittings, tees and sprinkler heads all set in the 4 inch trench where with a 3 inch I need to do a bit of hand work.
If you use the poly here's a couple of tips: there are several densities and for pipe that will remain under pressure for periods of time you need the high density. The low and medium are made for lines that only remain charged for short periods of time. Also, with the black poly pipe I like to use the shorter rolls if I'm plowing it in, makes it easier to handle. I use one person on the plow to drive it and one person on the roll, unrolling it as I pull it. Makes for a fast installation.
One last tip, if you are using it to have pressure for extended periods of time you should "double clamp" it, put two clamps on each side of the fitting. For a simple coupling of two hoses together you'd need four clamps. Remember, the poly is only rated for about 125 to 125 lbs and with PVC you can go to a higher pressure rating and solvent weld the fittings. I don't use poly for lines larger than 1 inch in diameter.
Best of luck,
Kevin
If you use the poly here's a couple of tips: there are several densities and for pipe that will remain under pressure for periods of time you need the high density. The low and medium are made for lines that only remain charged for short periods of time. Also, with the black poly pipe I like to use the shorter rolls if I'm plowing it in, makes it easier to handle. I use one person on the plow to drive it and one person on the roll, unrolling it as I pull it. Makes for a fast installation.
One last tip, if you are using it to have pressure for extended periods of time you should "double clamp" it, put two clamps on each side of the fitting. For a simple coupling of two hoses together you'd need four clamps. Remember, the poly is only rated for about 125 to 125 lbs and with PVC you can go to a higher pressure rating and solvent weld the fittings. I don't use poly for lines larger than 1 inch in diameter.
Best of luck,
Kevin
Bird
Epic Contributor
Certainly nothing wrong with cutting one down, GlennT, but for the price you can buy one already made that way, and the work involved in cutting one, I sure don't think I'd want to go to the work of cutting one down./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
djradz
Veteran Member
Glenn, don't know if you've already committed to buying the plow/middle buster or whatever you want to call it, but I have a very successful alternative and I'll bet you already have the same - your rear blade. The blade, when angled enough and tilted (via your lower link leveling adjustment) acts just like a plow, but even better since it just digs and pushes the soil to the side and doesn't bother to flip it. You may not have enough adjusting holes in your rear blade to get the angle quite right, so you may need to block, bolt or wire it at the right angle, but I think you'll find the result amazing. I've opened up a trench, after about 2-3 passes to around 10-12 inches deep using this method. On the second pass, the one side of the tractor tires ride in the first pass and dig even deeper. You'll have to turn the blade to something like an 45 degree or even sharper angle to get it to push the soil to the side and still dig. The more inline (parallel to the center line of the tractor) that the blade can be angled, the sharper the cut. Add some weight to the blade and it'll go even quicker. Give it a shot. I think you'll find it produces a cleaner trench with the soil out of the way versus the plows. Only down side is, like doing most things with the rear blade, it's a little difficult to keep the depth perfectly the same. Good luck no matter what you decide. A neighbor showed me this method over 15 years ago and I've buried both electrical lines (a little less than code @ 18") and water lines on many occasions without a problem.
djradz: Thank you. I've printed this out and I'm going to go with a cup of coffee, look at the blade, and cogitate. It might just work, it just might...
A few years ago we came down here to Texas to escape the cold weather, but it followed us down!! We're west of San Antonio and it's been snowing lightly off and on all morning and there's a light coating of ice on everything. Oh well, I bet there were fireants in Eden, too.
A few years ago we came down here to Texas to escape the cold weather, but it followed us down!! We're west of San Antonio and it's been snowing lightly off and on all morning and there's a light coating of ice on everything. Oh well, I bet there were fireants in Eden, too.
Bird: I've got to get down to Tractor Supply and get the 2001 catalog. My 2000 catalog shows two 16-inch drain spades, but it doesn't list show any narrow spades such as you describe. Cleaning out a trench with a spade is too darn hard on the back; I need a longer handle. If I can pick one up for $20 or so I'll certainly grab it. Thanks.