DIY Post driver.

   / DIY Post driver. #15  
Notice how the guy that did the least, is the first guy to the water. I've worked with guys like that.

Ha, there's always that one guy isn't there. On every job that one guy.
 
   / DIY Post driver. #16  
Hitch-operated post knocker:


Bruce
 
   / DIY Post driver. #17  
I have seen a couple of store bought drivers, and have made some mental notes on how they work.

1. Both drivers I looked at just lift a weight up and let it drop. All the doo-dads on the driver just support this basic design; Lift a heavy weight up, and then let it fall on the top of the post.

2. The hydraulic shaver driver I worked with was one of these designs. The hydraulic cylinder was puny and small. It took very little hydraulic volume and pressure to operate this cylinder, all it did was lift the weight up to the top. The tricky part to this design is the return line from the valve. To let the weight free fall, the fluid needs to leave the cylinder quickly with no resistance. This system used a small pressure line from the tractor, but used a huge dedicated low pressure line to a special spot so it can dump directly into the hydraulic tank on the tractor. We used ours on a skid steer, and had to take the skid steer to a dealer and have a extra fitting cut and installed into the hydraulic tank for this large return line to fit. I also saw some pictures on the web where people with farm tractors just took their reservoir fill cap off, and stuck the line down in the fill tube and let it run the fluid back to the tank that way.

3. The other design I watched work also used the weight/free fall method, but it was very simple slick way to do it. It mounted on the 3 point hitch of a tractor, and had a very dinky small driveshaft with u-joints hooked to the pto. This driveshaft went to a small gear box. The output of this small gear box turned a small chain which ran up and turned a hard rubber wheel about 6 inches in diameter. The mast of the driver was a tall u-shaped piece of metal that the post sat in. Around this tall u-piece was another piece of metal that had the weight on the inside of the u, and on the other side it had a flat area. This piece moved up and down with guide wheels. The rubber wheel was right there at the flat area and turned all the time. All the operator did was pull a lever, this pressed the rubber wheel onto the weight piece that had the guide wheels, and it drove it upward. The operator at the correct time pull the lever the other way, the rubber wheel pulled back and this let the wheel guided piece fall down on top of the post. Very simple.
 
   / DIY Post driver. #18  
I went through this several years ago. Looking at building vs buying. Ended up buying Shaver post driver for $ 250.00. I had to drive 3 hours to get it. Rebuild cost was 10 hours of my time , 1 seal for 68.00 bucks. And paint for $ 100.00 or so. I ended up welding a 24 inch of RR track on top of it to increase driving power after test and before paint. I doubt you can buy steel for what I have in it. If it has rained in last 2 weeks it will drive a 6 inch post ( no point ) 2 to 3 inches per hit. 10 - 15 hits move to next one.
If you can wait to get one. I would suggest checking craigslist every day and be ready to buy fast if one pops up.
Good Luck
Scott
 
   / DIY Post driver. #19  

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