Do I need chains?

[roadhunter]

Chains are a huge advantage for moving snow, especially when you get down to the hard packed ice.

 

[dickfoster]

There is a very long thread on here that covers grooving R4 tires to deal with snow without resorting to chains. That's likely the most economical approach and could be the answer for the OP and for his needs. Granted there is no single solution that is going to be optimal for everyone's needs and situation. A grooving iron is not going to set him back that much, call it a hundred bucks, if it doesn't work well enough for him and it will not have impacted his driveway or his tires to any truly measurable degree.

 

[powerscol]

OP for you size tires, if you find the need, look into cable chains - much easier on the pavement.

 

[BoylermanCT]

I plow without chains and R4 tires but have loaded rear tires and a 700lb tiller on the back. Tiller works well for ballast since it is short and does not hang too far off the back.

 

[oosik]

I have a mile long GRAVEL driveway. I use the rear blade on my M6040 4WD to plow the driveway. I've found that with the increased weight - 9500# - and R-1 tires, loaded with Rimguard, I don't need chains. I had heavy duty V-bar tractor chains when I had the Ford 1700 4WD. They were fantastic for added traction - the tractor rode like a cob - I hated them. The added weight and not needing chains was one of the reasons I upgraded tractors.

 

[RjCorazza]

OP for you size tires, if you find the need, look into cable chains - much easier on the pavement.

I wish they made cable chains for larger tractors! A set of light duty cables would be perfect for very occasional use on the one or two driveways I do with a significant incline. I have a set of heavy duty chains, but they are too heavy and difficult to install to be putting them on, then removing them frequently.
I am still considering trying to wrap the tires through the rim with steel cable and see how it works.

 

[oosik]

Heavy?? My Lord, the heavy duty V-bar tractor chains I had were almost impossible to lift over the top of the rear tires. And that was for a Ford 1700.

If I had the same type for my current tractor - well, they would look good hanging on the wall of my tractor shed because there would be no way I could lift them.

And I tried the trick of hooking them on the tire and driving forward - all I can say to that is - - good luck.

 

[MaineTom]

I started to make a set of chains for my BX25D last year but ended up purchasing them. It was just taking waaaay to long to fabricate them. They worked great with the R4 tires and I'm waiting delivery of a set for the front. I have 2" spacers on the back but I think I can use the front chains without them. It's getting too icy around here this year to be able to plow without the front chains. My GMC has 4 studded tires so it will move around OK, but the BX is great for getting into those places that the truck can't...like plowing the path for the oil man. I put a 2 1/2" split pipe on the front edge of the FEL bucket to prevent digging up soft ground and that works great! I also have a home made back blade that scrapes snow pretty well after the ground is frozen. Will post pictures when I get the chains on.

 

[JerryK]

Bar chains tear up your concrete, both driveway and where you park your tractor. Go with cable chains if you need traction on ice. Agree with above posts, adding weight is a better option than adding chains. Do you see plow trucks in your area running chains? Probably not. They mostly rely on weight and good tires. Not that tractor tires are great on snow or ice, but they are good enough if you get some weight on them. Chains are also a pain to install/take off.

 

[powerscol]

Heavy?? My Lord, the heavy duty V-bar tractor chains I had were almost impossible to lift over the top of the rear tires. And that was for a Ford 1700.

If I had the same type for my current tractor - well, they would look good hanging on the wall of my tractor shed because there would be no way I could lift them.

And I tried the trick of hooking them on the tire and driving forward - all I can say to that is - - good luck.

You'll laugh, but I used sticky duct tape to hold them in place to drive them over - worked OK. But I did learn something. If the tire is jacked up and you have the hooks at the bottom, the initial/final fitting is easier as all the slack falls to the bottom.