do you allways have to run tractor at full rpm for work?
- Thread starter johann
- Start date
Couple of Achers
Gold Member
Aww come on...where is your sense of adventure!!!??
Still attached!
Patches
Veteran Member
My tractor has two PTO speeds(540/1000). By using the 1000 RPM option and running my engine at 1535 RPM gives me 540 RPM at the PTO, which I use quite often, adjusting ground speed so the engine isn't lugging
art
Super Member
I find that it is rare to run many engines at there fullest although depending on the job and what it is normally it is with PTO work(not post hole augers) that I'll run at full throttle.
For most work with the loader or backhoes one half to two thirds throttle works fine and allows the oil pressures to be up enough for good performance.
For most work with the loader or backhoes one half to two thirds throttle works fine and allows the oil pressures to be up enough for good performance.
Volfandt
Veteran Member
IMHO, short answer = no.
Engine sound + implement performance will tell you alot more than just a static rpm gauge can. Course an rpm gauge is a nice feature to have tho.
The key to operating at the proper rpm is really a hit and miss type of goal, but thats why the throttle is variable
You want the best implement performance coupled with the least amount of wear and tear on the tractor.
In my particular circumstance, my BX23 doesn't make it's rated pto rpm (approx 3150 rpm)until it's nearly at WOT (approx 3300).
I very rarely run WOT but I do run at a hair or two below quite regularly.
exp:
1) Finish mowing = full pto rpm. This is because blade tip speed = best finish cut.
2) BH work = usually full pto rpm. I'm at the point where I want the max performance out of it when digging. I run lower rpm when using it with the thumb for lifting etc.
3) FEL work, depends on what I'm doing. Digging into compost/mulch requires alot less power than digging into clay.
4) transporting / grading etc. Varies per job.
My goal is to find the lowest rpm where the engine doesn't lug, the hydraulics work at the speed I want and tractor moves at the speed I want.
This usually ends up being very close to the rated pto rpm
YUMV
Dave
Engine sound + implement performance will tell you alot more than just a static rpm gauge can. Course an rpm gauge is a nice feature to have tho.
The key to operating at the proper rpm is really a hit and miss type of goal, but thats why the throttle is variable
You want the best implement performance coupled with the least amount of wear and tear on the tractor.
In my particular circumstance, my BX23 doesn't make it's rated pto rpm (approx 3150 rpm)until it's nearly at WOT (approx 3300).
I very rarely run WOT but I do run at a hair or two below quite regularly.
exp:
1) Finish mowing = full pto rpm. This is because blade tip speed = best finish cut.
2) BH work = usually full pto rpm. I'm at the point where I want the max performance out of it when digging. I run lower rpm when using it with the thumb for lifting etc.
3) FEL work, depends on what I'm doing. Digging into compost/mulch requires alot less power than digging into clay.
4) transporting / grading etc. Varies per job.
My goal is to find the lowest rpm where the engine doesn't lug, the hydraulics work at the speed I want and tractor moves at the speed I want.
This usually ends up being very close to the rated pto rpm
YUMV
Dave
Haha, that's really good! Why can't I come up with that kind of stuff.The only time I seem to run full throttle is driving down my subdivision road in H so I can get back to my driveway quicker and maybe blow some carbon out of the engine. (I don't mow).
dodge man
Super Star Member
Just my opinion here, not based on fact, but I think alot of people run to low of a rpm. I think they feel they are "saving" there engine by running at a lower rpm. To a point I think this is O.K. put I see people lugging there engnes at times. Open the throttle up and let it fly, this is really true when mowing. When I do end loader work, I tend to slow down the rpm to around 2100 becasue I'm smoother that way. 2100 seems like a pretty good setting on my BX, not to slow but not screaming.
bp fick
Super Member
2100 is a nice setting for a BX. I do, however, have to step up from that to around 2500-2600 when getting into plowing, subsoiling and other ground engagement activities. Cannot see ever running it at 3100/3200 for anything, other than a momentary burst.
Couple of Achers
Gold Member
I don't use my BX for mowing, but I do run it wide open when running my 4" chipper. But that's the only time I do. On a BX23 wide open is just slightly above 540 pto rpm. Since there is no tach on the BX23, wide open, or maybe just a touch under is close enough for me.
I run a flail mower on the 1,000 RPM output at maybe 60% of the engine speed at which the 540 output goes at 540, so I am a little bit overspeeding on that.
It DOES give a nice cut, though I will probably pay for that some day in some way.
PHD I run WAY slow and I hold it back with lowering speed.
Rototiller, maybe down around 300. It is something I do by feel according to what I am finding, how deep I am going, etc.
I think attachments are generally built for a MAXIMUM speed of 540 or 1,000, but only a few of them (mowers, shredders, chippers) perform worse at lower speed and slowing down can reduce wear and the probability of damage when meeting obstructions.
It DOES give a nice cut, though I will probably pay for that some day in some way.
PHD I run WAY slow and I hold it back with lowering speed.
Rototiller, maybe down around 300. It is something I do by feel according to what I am finding, how deep I am going, etc.
I think attachments are generally built for a MAXIMUM speed of 540 or 1,000, but only a few of them (mowers, shredders, chippers) perform worse at lower speed and slowing down can reduce wear and the probability of damage when meeting obstructions.