MF 202, Continental Z134 engine. I can not keep engine running smoothly under 1000 RPM.
Here is what I have done so far:
Valve job (significant change in compression readings and runs lot better)
* New head gasket (discovered 3 hairline cracks between cylinder walls, top of the block)
* Applied block seal
No visible oil in water, or water in oil.
No visible smoke or water odor at exhaust.
No bubbling in radiator.
Installed new plugs, wires, points, rotor and coil.
Healthy 1/4" spark with test plug
Installed carburetor kit and adjusted (not lean).
Oil pressure is 20 psi
Compression dry/wet: 115/125 psi on all cylinders (using 20W50 oil).
The distributor has a small shaft play of 7-8 mils by pushing the shaft with a screw driver. Also there are small rotor shavings (brass dust) inside. Could this be a problem?
Although the manifold is pitted, there are no visible cracks or holes. Also a new gasket was installed.
Changing timing does not fix the problem.
Plugs are a fouled but the points of the electrodes are clean, indicating that they do fire, at least sometimes. Maybe oil rings? when I removed the head, the cylinder walls looked good with hardly any ridges, It seems that the sleeves didn't have a record hours.
As I stated before, I installed a carburetor kit and did a good job in cleaning it. At this point, however, the problem would indicates a lean gas flow at low RPM. I don't know. I hate to invest $250 on a new carb, and may not even be problem. I wish I had a spare to try it.
Are there any opinions on using a 14-18mm adapter with a modern hot plug to replace the 386s. Or for that matter using a non-foul adapter like they used in the days of the gas burners?. The tractor does not smoke.
I am running out of ideas. I don't want to do engine internal surgery. If I have to, I'll drive it like it is. I am hoping to get a stimulus of ideas from the gurus. Any ideas are welcome.
Here is what I have done so far:
Valve job (significant change in compression readings and runs lot better)
* New head gasket (discovered 3 hairline cracks between cylinder walls, top of the block)
* Applied block seal
No visible oil in water, or water in oil.
No visible smoke or water odor at exhaust.
No bubbling in radiator.
Installed new plugs, wires, points, rotor and coil.
Healthy 1/4" spark with test plug
Installed carburetor kit and adjusted (not lean).
Oil pressure is 20 psi
Compression dry/wet: 115/125 psi on all cylinders (using 20W50 oil).
The distributor has a small shaft play of 7-8 mils by pushing the shaft with a screw driver. Also there are small rotor shavings (brass dust) inside. Could this be a problem?
Although the manifold is pitted, there are no visible cracks or holes. Also a new gasket was installed.
Changing timing does not fix the problem.
Plugs are a fouled but the points of the electrodes are clean, indicating that they do fire, at least sometimes. Maybe oil rings? when I removed the head, the cylinder walls looked good with hardly any ridges, It seems that the sleeves didn't have a record hours.
As I stated before, I installed a carburetor kit and did a good job in cleaning it. At this point, however, the problem would indicates a lean gas flow at low RPM. I don't know. I hate to invest $250 on a new carb, and may not even be problem. I wish I had a spare to try it.
Are there any opinions on using a 14-18mm adapter with a modern hot plug to replace the 386s. Or for that matter using a non-foul adapter like they used in the days of the gas burners?. The tractor does not smoke.
I am running out of ideas. I don't want to do engine internal surgery. If I have to, I'll drive it like it is. I am hoping to get a stimulus of ideas from the gurus. Any ideas are welcome.