Everlast Welders - Welders and Plasma Cutters by Everlast

[Mark @ Everlast]

Neither, and both.

The arc on the I-MIG can be tuned to change the inductance, the primary difference between welder likes and dislikes. The arc force control knob is essential to adjusting the welder to just how YOU like it. It has a wide range to make it suit your tastes. The inverter design does give a smooth stable arc to begin with.

I set mine to run like my larger ESAB.:thumbsup:

 

[Inkomodius]

Hey I read on another post that you are developing a PA-300? Do you have anymore specs/pricing on that yet?? Is it going to be 220/1 phase? I was about to pull the trigger on the 200 but if the 300 isnt far off.....

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Right now the plan is for 3 phase. But we can take a look.

 

[HCJtractor]

just got my Power arc 200 and am ready to give it a try ( I am a beginner ) What rods should I start with, and what size and amperage, if I am just running beads for practice.

Also am I correct in attaching the stinger lead to the positive pole?

 

[Brad_Blazer]

just got my Power arc 200 and am ready to give it a try ( I am a beginner ) What rods should I start with, and what size and amperage, if I am just running beads for practice.

Also am I correct in attaching the stinger lead to the positive pole?

Try some 1/8" 6011 rods. DCEP or DC+ is what you are describing and is correct for most welding. Read the recommended amperage range on the rod packaging.

 

[gwdixon]

Try some 1/8" 6011 rods. DCEP or DC+ is what you are describing and is correct for most welding. Read the recommended amperage range on the rod packaging.

For learning and/or practice it is hard to beat 6013 and 7014. They are not really heavy duty construction rods but are easy to run.

6011 can get sticky and 7018 can be hard to restart. After burning 5 pounds of 6013 and 7014 you can go to the 6011 for root passes and the 7018 for fill to make it pretty.

3/32" rod is a good size to initially work with and is cheaper per rod since rod is usually sold by the pound. Stay away from those 5-10 rod plastic or shrink-wrap packages since the rod packaged that way is outrageously expensive.

As far as amps go, the package should show the recommended range as Brad states. Start in the middle of the range and adjust from there. Different sizes, rod type, thickness of metal, position, and probably more dictate the correct amperage. There are also formulas and charts on the Internet that can guide you.

Not sure if you have the new PA200 with two ports but the ground (work) clamp goes in the LEFT side (marked "-") as you are looking at it and the stinger goes in the RIGHT side (marked "+"). It will work the other way round but penetration is less.

The PA200 is a nice machine and should do everything with stick welding that you can imagine - short of bridge building or ship construction.

 

[Haywire]

I just got started with my PA200 2 or 3 weeks ago. 7014 is the way to go to get used to things. For 1/8" rod, 120-130A seems to work nicely for me on 1/4" thick material.

Ian

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

6013 is a good cheap rod to start with.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

For learning and/or practice it is hard to beat 6013 and 7014. They are not really heavy duty construction rods but are easy to run.

6011 can get sticky and 7018 can be hard to restart. After burning 5 pounds of 6013 and 7014 you can go to the 6011 for root passes and the 7018 for fill to make it pretty.

3/32" rod is a good size to initially work with and is cheaper per rod since rod is usually sold by the pound. Stay away from those 5-10 rod plastic or shrink-wrap packages since the rod packaged that way is outrageously expensive.

As far as amps go, the package should show the recommended range as Brad states. Start in the middle of the range and adjust from there. Different sizes, rod type, thickness of metal, position, and probably more dictate the correct amperage. There are also formulas and charts on the Internet that can guide you.

Not sure if you have the new PA200 with two ports but the ground (work) clamp goes in the LEFT side (marked "-") as you are looking at it and the stinger goes in the RIGHT side (marked "+"). It will work the other way round but penetration is less.

The PA200 is a nice machine and should do everything with stick welding that you can imagine - short of bridge building or ship construction.

GW, I've got guys doing just that with them...constructing high rise hotels at least, and I know a few have gone to ship yards, no complaints.

 

[Perplexed]

Hi Mark,

I'm considering some choices for a 120/240V plasma cutter that uses IGBT technology. According to the main plasma cutter page on your web site, the PP50 can be ordered with an optional 120/240V setup. However, the web page for the PP50 doesn't seem to list this option. Is the 120/240V available on the PP50, and if so, how much is that option? Thanks!