Exhaust pipe wrap?

[Richard]

Dunno how well I can explain this, but the base question is, will exhaust pipe wrap work on a diesel?

Brutus has a turbo on side of engine. The muffler is bolted to the turbo, and the muffler has an integrated 90 degree elbow in it.

Well, the elbow has finally rotted through /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

I've got some work to do this weekend and do not have the replacement parts in, so I thouight I might try to bandaid the pipe together with that pipe wrap until my parts arrive next week ($300 for muffler/pipe assembly /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif )

Anyone know if a diesel will get warm enough to help that wrap stuff work, or is it a waste of my time to do it for one day's work?


Oh it blew the 90 degree apart AT the elbow, so it's not a straight pipe situation...the pressure of exhause will be pushing the other half of elbow AWAY as it runs/cures

 

[B2400]

If it's at the outlet of the turbo, it will DEFINITELY get hot enought to cure it. Keeping it stationary enough to work will be the tough one.

 

[Richard]

Well, I got 2 wraps on way home just in case.

Went to look closer and the fact is, I don't have enough room to wrap around anything, so it wont work

Bummer

The good news is, JCB has some in stock (in their Georgia assembly plant) and it's ordered, so I outta have it next week.

 

[theonlybull]

i've been known to use some thin alum, or body metal, cut to fit around the pipe, ( pie shaped peices cut out to go around a corner), some hose clamps/muffler clamps (what ever works) and lots of high temp silicon....... my 79 f-100 last 6 month's that way, including a 6000 km vacation... ( pipe broke the day b4 i left, and didn't have time to properly fix it)

 

[mrcaptainbob]

There's an epoxy muffler repair kit available, too. You place/shape the window screen type material that's in the kit over the hole and butter on the epoxy with the ice-cream sticks they give you. Let it set for a bit and start and let idle. After maybe five or ten minutes idle, then you're good to go. You'll need a rock drill to get it off, though!

 

[Richard]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( over the hole )</font>

I chuckled when I read this.

I'm not suffering from a hole in the muffler or the pipe.

The pipe has a VERY SHORT 90 degree bend in it as it exits the turbo and immediately turns to go straight up and out. It's at this bend where the pipe totally seperated.

Evidently it had been getting thin and perhaps perforated over time and the other day, whammo, it let loose.

The mounting bracket is the ONLY thing holding the pipe on. it's completely seperated from the outlet of the turbo and no real elbow room to try to repair anything.

As on many manifolds, the bolts/connection area is very rusty and rough, so I've been putting PB Blaster on it several times a day to prepare for it's replacement later this week when the new muffler/exhause assembly arrives.

 

[JerryG]

<font color="blue"> ($300 for muffler/pipe assembly)</font>
For that kind of money, I think that I would have taken it off and had a muffler shop fab up one for $50-60.

 

[DiskDoctr]

Richard,

A suggestion for the bolts. Take them off when hot. (Tractor warmed up, but shut if off first /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif)

PB Blaster is good, will smoke if used on hot surface, but I've never had a problem with it.

I agree with the ealier post- An auto muffler place can easily make an assembly for you- maybe save some $$...

-JC

PS- I can't picture exactly what you describe. Can you post a picture?

 

[Richard]

will try again, they (dealer) faxed me a schematic of the parts and my scanner seems to be having difficulties talking to my pc.

Actually, I get a out of memory error /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif and the scan quits.

I'll try again

 

[MicroPilot]

Try scanning at a lower resolution and/or lower color depth.