Exhaust pipe wrap?

[RonR]

They make a socket type tool that applies friction to a stud as you try to wrench it off. Not sure what they call it, but I have one somewhere. Maybe it's called a stud remover. Comes in 1/2 drive. That would give you more leverage than vice grips.

Ron

 

[Richard]

Well Ron, I gotta admit I was scratching my head after your comment, so I did a lookup on a stud remover and wa-la!!

I've seen those before (never knew exactly what they did) and you are right, I DO think that will add significant power to what I'm trying to do.

I guess I'm off to go find one, I DO wish I'd read this prior to (just now) returning from town...(18 miles one way).

Nothing like spending the day in car getting little do-dads.

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Richard]

_)$(&#_MC$#$_FJM+(N

(add lots of frustrated words here)

I drove the 35 miles or so round trip, spent $30 on the stud remover, only to come home and it not work /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Without getting into specifics, let's just say that the bolt is protruding out 1/2 inch. The bolt goes into the stud remover and as the wheel turns, it bites the stud and clamps it against the bottom AND the top of the holder.

Well... given the measurements, "MY" stud is too short and the toothed wheel only grabs about 1/4 to 1/2 of the available stud, meaning, the threaded stud does NOT get clamped on BOTH the bottom and the TOP of the clamper /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif As I try to turn it, it simply twists, contorts, and spins itself off of the stud /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

now I'm off to meet the wife for dinner in town the OTHER direction (so yes, another 35 mile round trip) HOWEVER, now that I know what I know, I'll stop at auto store or Sears to see if they have a smaller (shallower) stud remover. If all that fails, I'll see about having something welded to them so we can get a real BITE on them.

I'm about over these ornery little bolts!! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Henro]

Richard,

You might try inserting a stud or bolt piece, the same size as the stuck stud, in the top of the stud remover, so the the thing that grabs the stud is held at the proper angle, rather than twisting and only grabbing the top end of the broken stud.

Just a thought, but simpler things have worked for me in the past... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Don't give up!

 

[DiskDoctr]

Richard,

We've used 4x4 in a downturned bucket to support it in the air against the ground.

Of course, I could never recommend such a thing due to safety reasons, just a comment /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Boy, sounds like it's becoming a crusade /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Go get 'em!

-JC

 

[ewoss3]

Richard try heating the bolts with a small torch then touch one of She Who Must be Obeyed's candles to them, this should allow the wax to work into the turbo and loosen things up. Just don't tell her who told you to use the candle

 

[mrcaptainbob]

With all the time you you'll be away, maybe that PB will soak in!
Story time: After rebuilding an engine and using it for while, it came time to change the oil and filter. Tried everything on that filter. Wouldn't budge. Stuck a screwdriver through the can, still wouldn't come loose. Stuck a lug wrench through it...Still nothing! My dad came over with a tow truck and we took it to his uncles garage. Chain hoisted the car front up and four adults took turns whacking at the oil filter base. (that's all that was left!) Had to pull the engine! As it's setting on the floor, I set a cold chisel next to that flange and was getting ready to really smack it! And you know how you start by lining up with a light tap or two just before the grand wallop? Well, with the first light tap that dang (@@*^$*#) flange just "wang-wang-wang" spun itself right off! We all looked in disbelief!! ('59 Ford. A looong time ago!)

 

[Richard]

Went to store and bought something similar to this

The one I got is simply too thick on it's bottom and won't work. Is THIS the same kind of animal ?? If this does the same thing, it definately looks like it will get deeper than my first one.

I just hate buying 14 of these things in a journey of finding the right tool. I already have the first one above, and some other "bolt remover" thing that screws backwards over the top of the bolt... unfortunately for me, it has 5 pieces and all my studs fit in between TWO of the pieces /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[Richard]

Well, I'm going to try to grab me one of THESE to try my luck. this seems to be what I really need, as it appears it will go flush with my flange.

Fingers crossed.

Oh, the seller has told me he'll accept a check (I told him I'd send "cash", or certified check, what ever he wants) but I want to send overnight Monday, so he can in turn return overnight to me on Tuesday, for my receipt on Wednesday. I'll pay overnight both ways.

 

[GoodGuy]

Richard.....
My experience in similar situations to yours goes like this... First find an old nut that will fit over the bit of stud you have left; then crank your welder up (high heat) & do a fast penetrating weld so the nut gets welded to the stud. Have a bottle of water handy so that you can cool it immediately after you welded the nut. Cooling it fast is important because you just heated the stud (expanded it) and when you cool it, the stud will shrink and unseize the threads & "hopefully" break free. Put the penetrating fluid to it & work back & forth & you should be able to turn it a little more bit by bit. Low & behold, it's out. Take your time, if you rush the process, it's possible you'll break it off which then means drilling & tapping the hole back to original. Best of Luck, you'll get it !!!
Eric