externally regulated alternator question

[cowski]

the way i fixed that 30 years ago was to replace that with a delco alternator with internal regulator. just go get a alternator for a 76 chevy.i have done a bunch of them.if your wiring is real bad ,get one with a self igniter .it is a much cheaper fix.

 

[Soundguy]

those self ignitiing ones. any fire hazard ?

 

[VTPSD]

really my wiring is pretty good, someone had replaced the ignition switch and gotten the wiring all confused at the switch. I think the harness is in good shape. I replaced the switch with a new NAPA switch and wired it based on some testing and trial and error. It seemed to be correct, but maybe I missed something that is now effecting my charging. If i had a diagram, i am sure i could get the switch side correct and maybe this would get the charging situation sorted out.

 

[VTPSD]

i think that my issue could be that all the leads in the harness that need power are all on the same pole of the universal switch. Could this be my issue? I could maybe use a relay to switch straight battery power to the red terminal on my regulator.

 

[Coyote machine]

i think that my issue could be that all the leads in the harness that need power are all on the same pole of the universal switch. Could this be my issue? I could maybe use a relay to switch straight battery power to the red terminal on my regulator.

Why not use the original ignition switch and wire it 'correctly' or just go to a viable internally regulated alternator? 14.25 volts is close to max output one wants from any alternator. Anything higher, 15-17 volts will eventually destroy or blow up the battery from serious overcharging.

 

[VTPSD]

Why not use the original ignition switch and wire it 'correctly' or just go to a viable internally regulated alternator? 14.25 volts is close to max output one wants from any alternator. Anything higher, 15-17 volts will eventually destroy or blow up the battery from serious overcharging.

well the original switch is no longer. The switch that came on the tractor was from some other tractor (looks like a deere) but has bad connection between battery and ignition so i dont want to use it. Had I been wiser, i would have ordered the correct part when i first realized my switch was goofy.

 

[Coyote machine]

So why not order it now?

 

[VTPSD]

So why not order it now?

its just money :laughing:
i think i will, but i think i will do a little more experimenting with the wiring at the switch and see if the factory switch would solve it before i waste some more money. Even with the right switch i will still be left to guess which wires belong to what terminals.

 

[Soundguy]

Why not use the original ignition switch and wire it 'correctly' or just go to a viable internally regulated alternator? 14.25 volts is close to max output one wants from any alternator. Anything higher, 15-17 volts will eventually destroy or blow up the battery from serious overcharging.

14.4 - 14.7 are the normal charge rates you see. occasionally you find the odd 15.1v module.. but 14.4 is the most common.

 

[VTPSD]

14.4 - 14.7 are the normal charge rates you see. occasionally you find the odd 15.1v module.. but 14.4 is the most common.

This is what I was thinking.

when i had it charging I thought that 14 volts that i was getting was pretty decent. I am used to seeing 14+ on cars and trucks. Certainly didn't consider it overcharging. When I full feilded it i got about 16 volts.
Maybe I am being stubborn, but it seems like i am darn close to making it work with what I have right in front of me. If this was a restoration project, i would have all original parts, but i just need this old girl to work and be reliable. I am capable of wiring things in a safe manner, built several complete automotive harnesses from scratch on other projects.