Fencing question: Wood posts vs Metal t-posts

   / Fencing question: Wood posts vs Metal t-posts #11  
I would probably do the combo that welding suggests, but ask around locally and see how long treated wood posts last. I'm in Michigan - with a fair bit of moisture but not as much as you have - and we have on our property lots of fencing that is all treated wooden posts, put in between 1999 and 2001, and many posts are already showing some rot where they meet the ground. When we expand our pastures we're probably going to use t-posts for everything but the corners, where we'll probably use wood posts. It is possible to use a heavily braced t-post arrangement for corners, for what it's worth. We have "electrobraid rope" rather than high tensile, so lots of strength isn't required. BTW, rope or tape is far kinder on a horse than anything else, and a spooked horse will run through any kind of fence - period. Dumb horses would try to run through a brick wall if they're spooked enough. In most cases it's better to choose a fence that will give and minimize injury to the horse, rather than something like high-tensile that may injure the horse so much you have to euthanize it. The only exception I can see would be if you're in an area where the escaped horse could endanger people, like next to a busy highway.
 
   / Fencing question: Wood posts vs Metal t-posts #12  
banjopkr, fencing is a personal preference based on many factors..appearance, cost, who you are trying to impress, what you are trying to hold in/out. Everybody has their theories as to what is best.

I understand horses, cattle, sheep, goats and have done lots of fencing on several family ranches and my own.

The most important factor, by about 90%, is the stability of your corner/end posts. I've tried everything... and now use concrete culverts 5 feet indiameter and 5 feet high, 2800lbs, for corners and ends. They don't move or rot or pull out of the ground. Put in the very best ends/corners you can and sink wooden or metal pipe welded posts 4 feet inthe ground... and use 3 brace posts.

I've used lots of wooden line posts, pine treated and creasote and texas ash juniper. I've concreted them in and just tamped them in with rocks all around. My experience is that ANY wood post, except the heart wood of ash juniper, will rot..sometimes in 5 years, sometimes in 10... but you''ll be redoing those posts sooner or later.

I use electric smooth wire fencing reinforced with a strand of barb and one or two electric smooth wires for cattle.

I now use ONLY metal T posts as line posts. I've become disgusted at any other approach of mixing wood and metal posts. It doesn't work for me. Wood rots.

You buy a metal T posts and you own it forever, can reposition it easily if it gets pulled out or bent over.

Use the bucket of a front end loader to pull t posts with a chain. Press the T post into the ground with the bottom of the bucket (careful, if you hit a rock the front of the tractor will lift off the ground and slide sideways or bend the post, or both.)

My recommendation would be to focus your money on corner posts and bracing. Use T posts exclusively reinforced by the single top strand of electrical wire, as you are planning. The horses will stay away from the fence when they are trained. The no climb fence is good... a visual for the horses and smooth to avoid injury.

As you likely know, horses can get themselves injured in a totally smooth enclosure... it happens and you end up wondering how you could have prevented it... I believe you have made good decisions re your fencing plans and the fence will be as injury proof as people can make it. If a horse goes wild and runs into the fence, it just happens and all you can do is make it smooth wire and hope that injuries are minimal. The type of posts you use don't matter. It could be argued that T posts are better than wood since they give under impact.

I had an uncle who was riding a horse in a smooth no climb wire sand arena, 6' high fence with highly visible top rail of 4 inch diameter wood juniper rail. Fence posts every 5' made from juniper.

The horse "cold jawed" on him, while running in the arena under saddle, would not turn, hit the fence head on, Uncle saw a wreck was unavoidable and loosened up in the saddle and quit the horse at the fence, going over the top rail landing with bruses. Horse hit the fence head on, split it like a pair of scissors, broke its neck and died.

Your long term fencing experience may vary... good luck. You know my recommendations.... h*** for stout corners, smooth wire, electric top wire, T posts.
 
   / Fencing question: Wood posts vs Metal t-posts #13  
BanjoPKR,

I won't show you my "fence" around the garden. Its shameful. :eek:

Now that I have told you that piece of info you know the value of the following advice. :D

Check out the Tractor Supply Company's website. I have a real catalog from the Farm Show and it has some information regarding fencing. I really like T Posts since they are easier to install and move compared to wood. But you have to have the corners and line bracing fixed solid.

The TSC catalog has an interesting section on using T Posts for support. They said to use TWO T Posts connected togather on corners one driven deep than the other. You build the corners with T Post just like you would with wood. To brace the corners they have clips that allow a bar/T Post to run from T Post to T Post, just like you would do with wood except you are using metal.

My explanation stinks but the pictures at TSC are pretty clear. I going to try their ideas. Its much cheaper to bur that T Post pound that runs on compressed air than an auger. And easier to get where I need the post pounded.

Later,
Dan
 
   / Fencing question: Wood posts vs Metal t-posts #14  
Yep, I tried the T post clips.... quick to install...... quick to fall out.... the corners you seek to install come apart and are unsatisfactory in many, many ways.... All that I installed I've had to remove...

They looked like a good idea to me, they were not.
 
   / Fencing question: Wood posts vs Metal t-posts #15  
I have no idea what a "treated peeled core" post is?? But if they are those spindly treated STICKS that were used in making plywood ( the inner core thats left) I wouldnt bother to even drive them in the ground ( and most Ive seen are too short in length anyway??)

The people I know that do fences and STOUT fenses at that...do a 5-6 inch wooden post...driven in the ground ( not in an augered hole)..then 2 metal T posts...and then back to another 4 inch driven wood treated post.

The braced posts are about??..every 125 or ??..150 feet
 
   / Fencing question: Wood posts vs Metal t-posts #16  
banjopkr said:
Need your opinion/experience on fence post materials. The question is to use entierly metal t-posts, or a combo of treated peeler cores and t-posts.
We're in the rainforests of the Pacific Northwest. Fortunately very little rock (so far )
Some say we need the wood for the strength. Some say the wood will just rot off. Though the thought of buying a post hole driller is tempting, but, we can just push in the t-posts with our bucket.
We're fencing for a horse. 48" no-climb with an electric strand on top.
What do you think?
Thanks

I have to replace 1/4 mile of farm fence pretty soon. I'm leaning toward an all-metal design that's used fairly often here in the North Valley. T-posts are spaced 10-ft apart and support standard farm fence. Every 100-ft or so there's an H-section fabricated from 3" dia pipe and set in concrete. I don't plan to install an electric top wire, but it's not hard to do using insulators.
 
   / Fencing question: Wood posts vs Metal t-posts #17  
Two things that haven't been mentioned yet. First is the importance of the brace wire going from the bottom of the "corner post" TO the top of the "brace post". We have also used #9 wire and twisted it with the handle of a Cresent wrench until taut. We have used the N-style of braces back on the farm verses the H-style. They both work. The second point is to also use "anchor augers" with #9 wire to hold down the corner post over the years. Also if you use wood, use at least 6" diameter x 8 ft on the corners. Side note: Last Fall in Iowa, Dad and I removed two feedlot fences that we put in 30 years ago with creasote posts (5" x 8ft) every 4 ft apart with metal cattle panels and over 1/2 the posts are reuseable and probably 30% look like new. Dad thinks that old creasote was better than today's coatings/chemicals. Probably much more hazardous, too.
 
   / Fencing question: Wood posts vs Metal t-posts
  • Thread Starter
#18  
flusher said:
I have to replace 1/4 mile of farm fence pretty soon. I'm leaning toward an all-metal design that's used fairly often here in the North Valley. T-posts are spaced 10-ft apart and support standard farm fence. Every 100-ft or so there's an H-section fabricated from 3" dia pipe and set in concrete. I don't plan to install an electric top wire, but it's not hard to do using insulators.
The 3" diameter H-sections. Do you buy them or are you welding them up yourselves? I know there are many ways to do the corners & bracing, the metal will surely not rot!
Thanks to everyone for all your input!
 
   / Fencing question: Wood posts vs Metal t-posts #19  
dmccarty said:
Its much cheaper to bur that T Post pound that runs on compressed air than an auger. And easier to get where I need the post pounded.

Here's what I use to drive T-posts in the ground. I could use my FEL to push posts in the ground like I've heard described but that seems like it would take two people. The simple tool in the picture is really easy to use. It takes no time to set the post with this handy simple tool. My dad is over 70 years old and doesn't have any problem driving posts with this. How would a power tool work better any better? Just seems like a power tool would be more trouble to move around. Not trying to be argumentative.

Obed
 

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   / Fencing question: Wood posts vs Metal t-posts #20  
Obed said:
Here's what I use to drive T-posts in the ground. I could use my FEL to push posts in the ground like I've heard described but that seems like it would take two people. The simple tool in the picture is really easy to use. It takes no time to set the post with this handy simple tool. My dad is over 70 years old and doesn't have any problem driving posts with this. How would a power tool work better any better? Just seems like a power tool would be more trouble to move around. Not trying to be argumentative.

Obed

I think it depends on how many posts you're pounding...and rocks/no rocks. I too have a post-pounder, and it is about 30#. It can get heavy after doing a lot of posts, unless you are Popeye...;)

I've never used my FEL to set them either...just had tired arms for a few days.
 
 
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