Filled tires or wheel weights?

[JDeerekid]

I was just quoted a week or so ago for the rim guard in my rear tires which will cost $192.50 each. My tractor is slightly smaller than yours but not much so I would estimate around $200-250 each. That is for 55 gals/per tire which equals 600lbs per tire. Needless to say I am getting them filled as soon as a client pays me for the last bush hogging job I did.

I thought about the foam but heard it is very expensive. Something like double or more what the rim guard costs. Also heard it make the tractor ride very rough becuase it is very stiff in the tire. Doesnt allow the tire to flex I guess.

Steel wheel weights are not bad but you just cant get enough weight out of them unless you have them sticking out both sides of the tractor 2ft and then it is not practical or good for the tractor. So I will stick with the rim gaurd and something hanging off the back of the tractor.

 

[jk96]

Great feedback-thanks.

What's involved in getting it done? What did you use to fill them? Cost?

Filled by dealer with rv/marine antifreeze. Seemed like he said each tire took close to a 55 gallon drum. If I remember right it was around $450-$500.

 

[john_bud]

If the dealer fills the tire with CaCl2 correctly there is minimal damage over 30+ years. Damage comes from the fluid level getting down so the metal of the rim is exposed to the air in the tire. Keep the fluid level 1" over the top of the rim and it's good for a long time. Some old tractors from the 50's are still running original rims. Most ag tire companies will send out a truck to fill your tires on your site. Cost is about 1.25 to 1.75 a gallon installed. As for leaks, keep a plug kit handy.

Or, you can use rimgard, but the cost is about 3x CaCl2 and you have to bring the tire to them. Weight is about the same as CaCl2.

Or, you can use windshield washer fluid. Fluid is in same cost as CaCl2, and you can pretty easily do it your self. Fewer places will use it and fill for you.

Wheel weights are good, but spendy. Nice if you want to make it weigh less for lawns etc. For your biz uses, you may be able to justify the added cost of the iron vs the gain in versatility.

Foam cost nearly as much as iron weights. There are 2-3 available foams from pretty much rock hard to about like fluid filled. Weight is closer to washer fluid, but you won't have to worry about flats! You will need to spend extra time when you need new tires. Unlike fluid that can be pumped out and back in for new tires, foam is cut out and trashed. You need to replace at the same time as tires.


Big benefit of any added low weight is the dropping of the center of gravity. It pretty much offsets the tippy feel the BH boom gives.

jb

 

[SPYDERLK]

windshield washer fluid is only about 2/3 the weight of CaCl or Rimguard.
larry

 

[Reg]

I did my own with the ~$10 tool, 25ft CHEEP plastic garden hose and RimGuarg that I bought for $3 a gallon.
No problem buying it to haul away, for them it was the same price as if they had done the work, but their guy pumped it into barrels instead of into tires - SLIGHT time saving and one tractor not taking up yard space for a day.
I scrounged up 3 55 gallon plastic drums from the local car wash, they happened to be the white/translucent ones which made it easy to see that I had got all I paid for and to check the filling progress.

If you remember how a siphon works ?
Be sure to add a hefty sinker to the drum end of the hose.
It is slow, even if you raise the drums to max height in the loader, so have some other non-tractor things to do that day.

re;handling loaded tires;
I started a thread about that, explored special tools, most were expensive, but I value my life and the use of my limbs.
Eventually I re-claimed my engine crane from a friend of a friend of a friend of a son of mine.
When I want to switch between loaded/unloaded(turfs) I use the FEL to carry the loaded tires around.
My working rule is that a loaded tire is never standing upright without mechanical support.
It is hanging from the loader and/or hanging from the engine crane and/or bolted to the axle; there is overlap.
I have used chain threaded through my (un-waxed) rims, but I also developed a neat little trick of using a hook ended cargo strap that I can drop into the center hole and "fish" with to pick up horizontal wheels and lay them down in a stack without getting off the tractor.
I do the changeover on a concrete walk path, since the engine crane has small wheels and can't roll on dirt (with the weight of a horse on it).
It is still a lot of weight to move even the 3 ft or so straight out/in to the axle.
I can and do handle the unloaded turf tires, about 400 lbs tire and rim from what I've read.

 

[Lunk]

I have filled tires with Rim Guard, but want more. I need the TPH free for towing my wood trailer & for skidding logs, so a ballast box is out of the question.

I checked a Kubota dealer last week for wheel weights. Kubota parts guys says I can get (3) 65# weights on each wheel, for the low, low price of $164.00 each.

No Thanks.

I'm thinking of looking for some olympic-type weights & making a spindle for them on my wheels.

I also thought of using the 1st section of a steel barrell & filling it with concrete & leaving some studs in the concrete to fit the wheel weight holes on my wheels.

I didn't ask the dealer if the $164 included shipping. I don't even want to know.

You want ballast sticker shock?

I stopped at a Valtra dealer because they had these nifty 550kg 3PH-mount iron weights laying around the yard. They typically mount them on the front 3PH of the Valtras. Biggest ones were 1250kg. I'm thinking - What a cool ballast one of those 550's would be on the back of my 3510 so I ask "How much?"

Darn near fell over when he quoted $3600... It's a chunk of Iron!

I've got 100 gallons of WW Fluid sitting in my garage, waiting for my local TSC to get the "air-water adapter kit" back in stock this coming Friday. Apparently they had an issue with an SKU change, and no one noticed that none of the stores in the region had them on the shelf, until an inquiry was made on my behalf...I'd buy online, but prefer to support the local store. Even with some of TSC's shortcomings, they're only 15 min away from me, and I don't want to see them fail here, as they ain't been to busy these days...

Quick question re: filling - Does the valve stem core get removed when filling tires using this kit? If so, does the tire need to be jacked up off the ground?

Thanks,

Lunk

 

[Reg]

You want ballast sticker shock?

I stopped at a Valtra dealer because they had these nifty 550kg 3PH-mount iron weights laying around the yard. They typically mount them on the front 3PH of the Valtras. Biggest ones were 1250kg. I'm thinking - What a cool ballast one of those 550's would be on the back of my 3510 so I ask "How much?"

Darn near fell over when he quoted $3600... It's a chunk of Iron!

I've got 100 gallons of WW Fluid sitting in my garage, waiting for my local TSC to get the "air-water adapter kit" back in stock this coming Friday. Apparently they had an issue with an SKU change, and no one noticed that none of the stores in the region had them on the shelf, until an inquiry was made on my behalf...I'd buy online, but prefer to support the local store. Even with some of TSC's shortcomings, they're only 15 min away from me, and I don't want to see them fail here, as they ain't been to busy these days...

Quick question re: filling - Does the valve stem core get removed when filling tires using this kit? If so, does the tire need to be jacked up off the ground?

Thanks,

Lunk

Generally - Yes.
a) to rotate the wheel to get the valve at 12:00 (a.m. or p.m.)
b) to be sure that the tractor's weight doesn't collapse the tire into the rim - however unlikely.
c) The core DOES have to come out.

I do most strongly recommend a ball valve between the hose and the fill valve if you are siphoning. Best way to fill the hose and keep it filled IMAO.

 

[Lunk]

Generally - Yes.
a) to rotate the wheel to get the valve at 12:00 (a.m. or p.m.)
b) to be sure that the tractor's weight doesn't collapse the tire into the rim - however unlikely.
c) The core DOES have to come out.

I do most strongly recommend a ball valve between the hose and the fill valve if you are siphoning. Best way to fill the hose and keep it filled IMAO.

10-4. Thanks!

I have a couple drill pumps laying around (one is NIB), so siphoning isn't in the plan at the moment.

 

[Reg]

10-4. Thanks!

I have a couple drill pumps laying around (one is NIB), so siphoning isn't in the plan at the moment.

Somewhere I read that RimGuard can foam if pumped too quickly.
I probably didn't see it in terms of how many gallons per minute or hose size, but it might be something to consider.
I might have sub-consciously avoided having to hold a cordless drill and pump for ???
some number of tens of minutes, you might want to check on what sort of flow rate you are likely to get, i.e. the boasted flow de-rated for viscosity, head, etc.
The passage through the part of the fill adapter that passes into the valve is very small indeed and is likely the limiter.

 

[kthompson]

Builder, if you will want to keep the weight for all jobs I would fill the tires. If you need to drop it from time to time or job to job, you must go with weights. A fill tire to man handle is a moving weight so be careful.

It amazes me that all say to use rim guard or windshield washer fluid or the calcium fluid. Is my part of the world the only place they use regular anti freeze mix just like in an engine? But you need to have an idea the amount of water going in to get mix ratio and that may be the reason as knowing the gallons of water is not alway easy. I am not throwing off there either. My dealership told me how much antifreeze to use.