Finally decided on welding machine

   / Finally decided on welding machine #21  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 2% oxygen )</font>

Thats weird /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I thought the whole idea of the shielding gas was to keep the oxygen in our atmosphere from contaminating the weld/process.
 
   / Finally decided on welding machine #22  
The compressed oxygen is pure. the oxygen we breathe is not. I think thats how it was explained to me.
 
   / Finally decided on welding machine
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Deerlope, thanks for the info. Even though the percentage is small, I am kinda surprised to see oxygen in the mix.

Our tool gal at work called this afternoon to tell me the machine came in. I'll be picking it up tomorrow. Looks like the tank will be ordered soon..................chim
 
   / Finally decided on welding machine #24  
Chim,
I agree that the you won't go wrong with the mix. Find out what size the bottle is that he is suggesting for you and call around. I had done this before I bought my welder so when I finally bought the welder I told the salesman what price I was willing to pay for the cylinder. He didn't really like that but after laying down 2 grand I didn't care. I told him, "don't make me go over to the other store to get a cylinder". He gave in. It helped that his competition was just across the street. $140 sound kind of steep for a 3ft bottle. The 150lb bottle I have is about 4 1/2' I believe.
Eric
 
   / Finally decided on welding machine
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Thanks Eric. I'll have to check the quote when I get back to work tomorrow....................chim
 
   / Finally decided on welding machine #26  
The oxygen in atmospheric air doesn't cause a problem, it's the hydrogen you are trying to keep out. Have you ever heard of hydrogen enbrittlement?

On edit I pasted this off the lincolnelectric.com website, I hope that isn't a no-no...

Hydrogen contributes to delayed weld and/or heat affected zone cracking. Hydrogen combined with high residual stresses and crack-sensitive steel may result in cracking hours or days after the welding has been completed.

High strength steels, thick sections, and heavily restrained parts are more susceptible to hydrogen cracking. On these materials, we recommend using a low hydrogen process and consumable, and following proper preheat, interpass, and postheat procedures. Also, it is important to keep the weld joint free of oil, rust, paint, and moisture as they are sources of hydrogen.

One of the sections I read in another link on the same site stated that the coating on low hydrogen rod was there to keep out oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen. I have read quite a few welding books and took welding classes and the only gas I remember being mentioned as a contaminant was hydrogen, so I guess I was wrong. Maybe. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / Finally decided on welding machine #27  
Since we're delving deeply into the discussion of MIG shielding gas, I thought I'd post an excerpt from my welding book. It's long but it sounds like a popular topic with some of you and for you it will be of interest. I found it very useful.

Choosing shielding gas

By now, you should have an idea of what level of MIG machine will suit your purposes. If you are like most home/shop users who aren't going to be welding every day, your needs may be best served by a typical, entry-level 140-amp, 110V MIG machine using shielding gas. You now have to choose a shielding-gas bottle (not included with most MIG machines), some wire (a small sample roll may be included with your machine), and the type of shielding gas you want to use. This sounds like a lot of choices, but the field is narrowed down by what kind of work you want to do and how often you need to do it. In all cases, the choice of shielding gas and wire type must be matched to the kind of material you will be welding.

Capacity of the gas bottle is important, and most first-time weldors make the mistake of buying less capacity because the bottles are cheaper, only to find themselves someday working on a project over a weekend (when there is little chance of getting a bottle refilled) and they are out of gas. Gas bottles are avail-able in sizes from 20 cubic feet to 40, 60, 80 and 125 cubic feet of gas. This roughly translates into welding time of from four hours for the 20 cu.ft. bottles to 14-16 hours for the 125 cu.ft. when used on a small machine like the 140-amp unit in our example. There's a number of factors involved in how long a particular bottle may last under different welding conditions, so these are just rough guide-lines. Every time you use your MIG machine, you should look at your tank gauge to see how much more gas is left. You may even want to just lease a small cylin-der of gas when your first get your machine just to see how long such a tank would last you, and then buy a bigger one if you think you need it.

The small bottles fit nicely under a small welding cart, making for a very portable arrangement for occasional home use (see illustration). The Iarger bot-tles are heavy and bulky, so you'll have to build a welding cart (most first-time weldors' first project) that can accommodate one. Of course, bottles of com-pressed gas are dangerous, even if the gas is non-flammable, due to the pres-sures involved, and any welding gas bottle must be securely mounted with' chains or sturdy clamps. It's important to note that welding bottles for electric welding machines should be ideally mounted in an insulated manner, such as with rubber underneath and rubber hose over any restraining chains. This pre-vents the remote possibility of arcing against the cylinder, which could damage it.

Next there is the choice of shielding gas to use. One of the widely used shielding gasses for MIG work is plain carbon-dioxide, or CO2. While it is in the bottle, CO2 is really an inert gas, but technically it turns into carbon monoxide and oxygen under the intense heat of the arc process. The oxygen can combine with other elements in the air and in the parent metal to form undesirable oxides. Thus, plain CO2 will not usually result in as clean a weld as with other gasses, but it is used often because it is the least expensive shielding gas for welding steel. It will weld very fast, with good penetration, but you should use a welding wire that contains deoxidizing elements to counteract the effect of pure CO2, Argon is a versatile inert shielding gas that is often used by itself, or in com-bination with other gasses to produce certain weld characteristics. For instance, welding of non-ferrous materials like aluminum is usually done with pure argon. It makes for good penetration patterns and a concentrated arc.

To weld ferrous materials, like the mild steel we will use for most home/shop projects, argon is usually mixed with another gas, or sometimes two other gasses, to provide special characteristics. While there are some esoteric mix-tures of gasses in different percentages for specific purposes, a mixture of 75% argon and 25% CO2 has become pretty much the standard for welding mild steel with short-arc MIG machines with wire diameters of .035-inch or less (see illus-tration). This mixture, often abbreviated as C-25, is more expensive than the plain CO2 but produces much less spatter and consistently better looking welds, even on materials that exhibit minor rust or scale. It is what we would recom-mend for most of your welding needs. If you were doing a lot of thicker materials, overhead or other out-of-position welding and pipe welding, you might use a 50-/50 mix of argon and CO2 which offers good wetting and bead shape without the. excessive fluidity that causes a bead to droop or fall when doing out-of-position
welding.

If you are working in a body shop, you might be interested in a mixture that Airco calls Argoshield LG@, which stands for light gauge. It consists of mostly ar-gon with small additions of CO2 and oxygen, The combination is designed for metals down to 20.-gauge, and produces good penetration, but with a smaller weld bead than normal for less sheet-metal finishing, less spatter and smoke and good arc starting. It is specifically formulated to work well on the thin, low-alloy steels now used on auto sheet metal.

For welding of non-ferrous materials, either straight argon or mixtures of ar-gon and helium are used in various combinations which provide higher heat to a MIG arc. Usually, the thicker the material to be welded, the higher the percentage of helium that is included in the mix, and the HE-75 gas, which is 25% argon and 75% helium is typically used in industry to weld thick aluminum. If you were interested in welding stainless-steel, you can actually use the C-25 gas' we recommended above for mild steel, but a mixture of 90% helium, 7.5% argon and 2.5% CO2 is widely used in stainless-steel MIG welding because it offers a higher heat for the normally sluggish weld puddle on stainless, as well as offering good stability, penetration and resistance to corrosion. If you have to pick just one type of gas, ,the C-25 works great on steel, can be used on stainless-steel and is also useable on cast iron.
 
   / Finally decided on welding machine
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Bgott, thanks for passing that along. There's a whole lot for me to learn about welding even though I've been tinkering for many years at the In-law's farm on a stick machine. MIG opens a new territory for me.

Not much science the way I've been doing it - small rods for small projects, thicker rods for bigger stuff, 6011 works for most things, teensy MG500 were nice for thin things, adjust amps high enough to maintain arc, adjust amps low enough so you don't burn through. On the plus side, I made my own snow plow and winch mounts and never broke anything loose.................chim
 
   / Finally decided on welding machine #29  
I bit the bullet and bought a Miller 250X new off ebay. I bought it from a welding dealer with no tax and no shipping. Drop shipped from Miller warehouse, never fondeled by weld shop customers.

It has been a great machine. Consumable parts are from several dealers in town so no shortage.

This machine can weld 1/2" with no problem. I didn't expect to be welding so thick until I got a tractor. Now 1/2" is not really big.

Miller is top notch. I think if you figure out how to get one size larger machine than you think you need you will never regret it.

Jim
 
   / Finally decided on welding machine #30  
Great choice! I just got my Miller 175 this week. I purchased it with the cart. I have used a stick welder for many years now,and the transition to mig seems easy. One thing I would recomend is to either lengthen the power cord,or make up a extension cord. I chose to lengthen the power cord aprox.15 feet. I also fabricated a hanger bracket to the side of the cart,so that when thru I can hang the power cord right on the cart. I also purchased a pair of MIG pliers,a handy 7 tools in one gadget ($16.95). I plan on using .035" solid wire for most all projects. It has a range of 18 ga. thru 3/8". The gas Iam using is 75/25 (acet-co2) recom for mild steel application.I have tried various thicknesses,and positions,I really think I'am going to like the MIG. Good Luck with yours!
 
 
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