Tractor Sizing Finding the right fit?

[LS Tractor Owner]

Finding a used one can be a challenge, but is possible. My neighbor just found / purchased an old Kubota L260 with a loader and backhoe. It definitely doesn't look pretty and the backhoe needs every hose replaced, but he got it for $3,300 (USD). Being it is ugly already, he's not afraid to use it !

 

[pipetrencher]

To give you a little more to ponder, the cold crushed asphalt on top has some pros and cons. A pro is that it does compact well, almost like a "hot asphalt job", usually doing ok for a few years. Then needs to be "worked" again. This is where a major con comes to play... Some of it sticks together and forms BIG clumps. Really hard to grade smooth again. Almost impossible to get it as good as when it was first put down.

So, with that in mind, using it as a base course, works very good, compacts nice and hard. Then having a top course of crushed stone, allows you to re-grade as any " normal" drive, using a blade or landplane for example.

Hey thanks for the info.....
Funny, I just now received a quote on a turn key hot pave BUT based on an area estimate (without measure) of 8400 sq/ft. I now know that it will be more in the area of at least 12,000 with all the parking and turn arounds etc... (To be fair, there was a bit of snow on the ground when the estimator was on location, making it difficult to judge perimeters). Anyhow the cost is $34,000 plus 13% HST = $38,420... So once measured the cost will be about 55k all in. Yeah I know it's $CAN, But that's still over 35k $USD. On the flip side, I can get all the stone base and the cold asphalt for under about 5k, delivered and rent a 5t roller, and use the SCUT of course.

I think I would be willing to risk a DIY "not so perfect driveway" in recycled asphalt for 5-6k with a SCUT, than a Pro job for 55k. But the other way round, such as what "Looch" has, sounds like a good inexpensive and possibly more "idiot proof" solution also. (Which unfortunately I may need)

So the way I see it is ....

Pros of asphalt on top is, it looks more like a regular drive, and less stones between the toes, more kids with bikes friendly
Cons are those difficult humps to deal with upon initial install (through inexperience perhaps) and rework

Pros of asphalt as a base, with stone dust is the ease of hiding asphalt humps and imperfections with varying stone depths if need be. This would include a "not so perfect" install, aswellas as post rework
Cons are that it may not look as nice, and less kids with bikes friendly

If anyone knows more about this, I'm certainly all ears.....
If I can do this myself, which I figure I can, A SCUT is definitely in the cards


Good to know, thank you

 

[pipetrencher]

Finding a used one can be a challenge, but is possible. My neighbor just found / purchased an old Kubota L260 with a loader and backhoe. It definitely doesn't look pretty and the backhoe needs every hose replaced, but he got it for $3,300 (USD). Being it is ugly already, he's not afraid to use it !

I guess if changing all the hoses works out, and he is knowledgeable enough to know that otherwise it's in good working order, then sounds to me like he's doing okay.

It would depend on the intended use I would think though? For example, If a landscaper who would be using it everyday were in the market for a SCUT, then this probably wouldn't be the best route. But for someone like me who will not use it that often, assuming all is in relative good condition to begin with, then I think that it may be a good route to take. I say this mainly because if it's not being used constantly (would still get it out and working to ensure nothing gets seized) then it would slow down the aging/hours? and thus theoretically slow down the repair rate also....... theoretically I said. Which in turn may be able to justify a few repairs seen as one save 10k initially

The other part of the equation even if machine was heavily worked, would be the owners ability to repair things, and the time needed to repair.

In my case, I'm okay at fixing things. I can fix most things if I put my mind to it, but really in depth procedures would have to be sent out. But 10 savings ...hmmmmm maybe keep an eye...

 

[pipetrencher]

Just wanted to through this out there....

Actually there were 2 PDF quotes. My drive is "L" shaped. 1st quote is drive to house, 2nd is house to shop

2nd quote 37k plus tx.... The math on that is ---------- I don't think so.....

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Our drive area (coming off the gravel common private road) is about 400' long, 20' wide for about 150', then up to 40' wide (turn around and parking). I put it in 25 years ago and have never regraded it or had to add stone. It was cut down 12" deep, 6-8 inches of 3-4" rock placed, then 2" of 1 1/2" crusher run. On top, 2" of crusher fines (1/4" to powder). It hardened like concrete. Kids rode bikes all the time and could actually roller-blade on it. It is now finally needing to have some more crusher fines on it after 25 years. I'll maybe do an inch or two at most. Being our drive, not a whole lot of traffic, but a couple of cars in and out a couple times a day.....

 

[pipetrencher]

Our drive area (coming off the gravel common private road) is about 400' long, 20' wide for about 150', then up to 40' wide (turn around and parking). I put it in 25 years ago and have never regraded it or had to add stone. It was cut down 12" deep, 6-8 inches of 3-4" rock placed, then 2" of 1 1/2" crusher run. On top, 2" of crusher fines (1/4" to powder). It hardened like concrete. Kids rode bikes all the time and could actually roller-blade on it. It is now finally needing to have some more crusher fines on it after 25 years. I'll maybe do an inch or two at most. Being our drive, not a whole lot of traffic, but a couple of cars in and out a couple times a day.....

It's all in the prep eh! that's impressive.......... love top see a pic of that.....
With that said, as cheap as stone is, that recycled asphalt is about 40% of the cost. So not sure if that option was available to you when you did your driveway or not? Would you have considered that option now? if so .... do you think you would have wanted it as the base or top layer?

 

[PEJ5]

I shopped for a tractor for months, looking for something in the 26 to 35hp range and even 10 year old units were as much as I could get a new one for(with big discounts being offered). The selection and options were especially scarce in the Maritimes.
For you to find something with a backhoe, only 2015 old, with warranty, and in your price range is amazing! If it is big enough for you, go for it.
If it turns out to not be the right fit, I bet you would be able to sell it next year for as much as you will pay for it. So what is the risk? Well one risk is delaying and the tractor sells to someone else.
As for backhoe strength... I expect you have already dug a few holes by hand so as long as you do not live on a rock ledge, the backhoe will do a much easier job than your back. ;-)

Good luck and do update us. It appears TBNers love spending other people's money!

PS: stick with basic gravel and crushed rock for a year before considering asphalt dust.

 

[fried1765]

This is my 1st post. So, hi all.

As my "greeting" message indicated, I never would have thought that I would ever say "I need a tractor", but a few months after trying to settle into a rural property.......... well............ "I need a tractor". And looking forward too .. (pretty long post, sorry!)

From what I have read, whether a Kubota, JD, MF, Mahindra, Kioti etc.... I don't think it really matters, or at least they all seem to have very similar models to one another. What I do think matters, is matching the tractor capability & possible dealer support to your needs and beyond. But of course most of us don't have money trees in the backyard, which may, in the end, hinder the optimal preference.

So, in the hopes that the above paragraph that makes sense? below are my terrain & storage details, tractor needs, budget preferences and buying opinions & final thoughts.

Terrain details & storage

• 5.5 acres which consists of mostly grass. The land is relatively flat in the front other than the drainage ditch by the road which is a bit steep, dips and dives a bit in the back yard, But nothing severe. The ground seems pretty stable soil, normal grass
• Driveway is in front which again is mainly flat(ish) but does dip down about 6'-7' over 50'-60' at road
• Will store unit inside drive shed. Drive shed is connected to (soon to be) heated shop.

Tractor needs (Immediate)

• Dig several trenches totaling 400-500' long, by 2' deep, and about 1' wide
• Dig up a 1300 sq/ft driveway about 8" deep (Currently thin cover of stone, soft underneath, I can dump dirt down hill on property, so do not need to load into truck)
• Move whatever tons of stone needed and grade driveway
• Possibly move recycled asphalt into place to be rolled (New Hot asphalt drive.... $$ no way) But I may stick with just stone?
• No grass cutting as I already purchase 2 used 42" & 46" craftsman ride-on's
• Dig down about 5' at front of raised bungalow to address water seepage in a cold cellar
• Once a year move 7-8 Bush cord about 75' from open area to sheltered dome
• Clear new driveway of snow (keeping in mind the finished result will be either 5/8 limestone or cold rolled recycled asphalt which from what I have been told is relatively stable but delicate)

Budget preferences & buying options

• I would like not to spend more than 15k all in. Total
• I have good credit so I would can put down 8-10k and finance the rest./ I would much rather buy outright though. If I have a <10k option?
• If private sale I could save the HST? Cheaper than dealer. But would a good dealer ensure I get a good unit? or do they "really care"? IMHO, I doubt they do!
• I'm pretty sure I can do most of the regular maintenance myself. I may even be able to change a part or two.

Final thoughts

• I was thinking of a compact? certainly not a sub compact? I say this because I have read about the backhoe limitations of subcompact tractors? Especially when one doesn't know what the future holds? What are your thoughts?
• I was thinking used (Obviously, based on my budget)? But I am anything but a tractor expert
• Is dealer support important?
• Should I heat drive shed? Will be quite simple to do so. I will be heating everything with a Outdoor wood furnace (hence, the trenching)
• Do not want chains on tractor for pushing snow. Is included loader on 4x4 TLB good enough?
• Do I need shoes on the loader to push snow? So I can keep stones "on" the driveway? or not to rip up cold rolled recycled asphalt?
• How many hours per use, per year would indicate normal usage? I don't think I would want to buy a used tractor from a contractor who pushed it everyday.
• How old is too old 19XX?
• How many hours is too many hours?
• Any signs to look for when looking at a used tractor?

If you made it this far? Thanks!!

Please enter your location in your profile.
It will help us to help you.
(Maybe Ontario, with the 13% HST?)

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

It's all in the prep eh! that's impressive.......... love top see a pic of that.....
With that said, as cheap as stone is, that recycled asphalt is about 40% of the cost. So not sure if that option was available to you when you did your driveway or not? Would you have considered that option now? if so .... do you think you would have wanted it as the base or top layer?

It's dark now, but I'll get a pic tomorrow if I remember..... The recycled asphalt has become available here in the last couple of years. I was thinking about using it to "top dress" the private road and drive, but went to look at another property that did it a couple of years ago. It's a mess right now....big chunks, big potholes... Don't know what is under it though. Looking at it made my decision. The supplier also sells crushed concrete for the same price...much easier to work with.

I still haven't decided to go even the crushed concrete though. It's much larger pieces, up to 1". Might go with it for the road, but definitely not on the drive. The crusher fines are only a little bit more (maybe $100) for the amount I would need for the drive.

If I was starting from scratch, I would definitely use the asphalt for the base, but still top with a layer of 1" crushed(with fines) and crusher fines for the finish.

 

[pipetrencher]

I shopped for a tractor for months, looking for something in the 26 to 35hp range and even 10 year old units were as much as I could get a new one for(with big discounts being offered). The selection and options were especially scarce in the Maritimes.
For you to find something with a backhoe, only 2015 old, with warranty, and in your price range is amazing! If it is big enough for you, go for it.
If it turns out to not be the right fit, I bet you would be able to sell it next year for as much as you will pay for it. So what is the risk? Well one risk is delaying and the tractor sells to someone else.
As for backhoe strength... I expect you have already dug a few holes by hand so as long as you do not live on a rock ledge, the backhoe will do a much easier job than your back. ;-)

Good luck and do update us. It appears TBNers love spending other people's money!

PS: stick with basic gravel and crushed rock for a year before considering asphalt dust.

I agree that the Mahindra below is a good deal, With tax it still $18,600. (16.5 final sale price before tax) It's a lot of cash. I just need to cut it back that's all. If I had an extra 7-10k, i'd take it. But you do raise a good resale point. I actually did touch on this before in an earlier post. Maybe think about that again.

Used 215 Mahindra Max 24 HST Tractor | AgDealer

I just seen a china model up in... .... well here it is

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-farming-equ...or/1425464647?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

I know it's Chinese. For me that wouldn't be the deal breaker, again mainly because of my intended use, which is probably going to be a bit on the sparse side, But Finding parts I think would be an issue.

Material wise, yeah, I think I like LS mt125's set up. It sounds pretty stable. or maybe I could even go more basic... Right now the best sections maybe has an inch of mixed pea with 5/8" lime, and the worst sections have nothing but mud, especially in low lying areas. Could I just dump 4" of pea over the entire drive? or would 5/8" be better? Or just cherry pick digging and filling muddy sections with 6" of 3" minus, then pea? but don't bother to dig areas that are solid.

I was convinced a few hours that renting equipment was maybe going the way to go, but after getting that 80k driveway quote, it puts things into a different perspective once again. Because that is just not happening.