First real tractor (TC26) lots more to learn

[HUCKthe1]

pjtiii,
I too have a TC26DA and have found that not being able to do anything in high gear is a pain. I am constantly shifting back and forth while digging with my FEL to transporting. My 1320 had a mid speed which is what I worked in most of the time and I believe NH should have it on the TC26 too. I can put a 2x4 in front of my tires and my tractor will not climb over it in high. No tire spin, just sits there not moving. I talked to my dealer and he checked out hydro and said it was fine. Just feel a tractor should pull a little more even if it is in high gear. Don't get me wrong I love my tractor but this one issue is aggravating.

For the box blade, it takes time and lots of practice. I play with the top link till I get the results I want. I found having the front just a little lower than the back gives me the results I want. The tines dig and the back grades in this way. I know I have it set right when my box is full but not over filled to fall out the sides.

If you are trying to dig out with your BB I found going over with the front tines much deeper first and then lowering the back to drag out what was loosened up works well. Hope this helps but it is a play and see what you get to learn.

 

[AKKubota]

How wide is the TC26 with R4's?

 

[jbrumberg]

pjtiii:

I was wrong about the 3 range HST on the TC26DA. Nice pictures . We all have had our "learning curves" , , and with our tractors; at least the honest operators in the TBN readership will admit to "personally created situations" . I have lost count of all my embarrassing moments . I agree with Andy- where are your rocks? Jay

 

[jbrumberg]

pjtiii:

You can download an Owner's Manual for your Woods Box Scraper through their website at Woods Equipment Company if you do not have one. Jay

 

[pjtiii]

Huck, thanks fo rthe BB tips - I don't thik I paid much attention to the relative hights of the front and back. I ahve been doing a lot of playing and mostly moving the blade in and out of the dirt as it slows the tractor down. I have been totally unable to get a cosistent smoothing effect - I'll try some of your suggestions (probably after I get more work done on the shed.

Andy - Yes i guess it is is pretty sandy, I felt I had been digging many rocks out but that may be a lack of anything to compare too. So, I tried to do as you suggested - sounded good. As I dug down deeper though I found that the rock in the picture was sitting on top of another rock even larger (I think) and at an angle that I would still have to lift it in order to get it to topple into the whole. So... back to the jack hammer idea.

AKKabuta - the widht I think is about 48 - If I remember when I'm out tomorrow, I'll measure.

Jay - Thanks for the link to Woods - I'll take a look.

Patrick

 

[Compact1]

Jay, Unless I really missed something in the manual, the TC26DA is a 2 speed HST - High and low range. I have found that steep hils require the low range even with just the mower. However, most of my lawn only has very moderate hills. On these slight inclines, I was surprised when the high range would bog down and not go up the hill.

The MMM is linked to the 3ph to raise and lower the mower. I had mistakenly first used the MMM with the 3ph position ALL the way at the bottom. In this setting the mower is not allowed to rise or fall with the terrain (it is essentially locked full down). So, when I was trying to go up hill, the tractor was trying to "dig" into the hill with the mower. Once I realized this, and moved the 3ph lever a little off the bottom the mower was able to "float" with the terrain, and I was able to easily go up the incline even in high gear. Not to mention that the lawn was a lot less dug up.

Patrick

Patrick,

Your tractor will not allow you to "lock-down" the 3-point hitch. Unless the 3-point hitch is raised to it's highest position - it will always float up. The reason your 3-point hitch lever has a "float" position is so most of the weight of the MMM will be carried by the cushion lift system. In the float position, the guage wheels stay in contact with the ground but easily move up and down with the terrain. The reason your guage wheels were digging into the ground was because all the MMM weight was resting on the wheels.

You can tell if the cushion lift is adjusted properly by the following test: Set the MMM to the position you "think" you want to cut then exit the tractor and try to lift one side of the MMM. If the deck feels like it weighs a ton then not enough weight is being carried by the cushion lift system. If you can easily lift the side of the MMM (and the guage wheels return to their original position when released) it is most likely properly adjusted.

Here is a link that helped me learn how to properly adjust my cushion lift system: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...eling-914a.html?highlight=cushion+lift+adjust

Hope this info helps. I spent many an hour trying to figure out the same stuff before I found the above link.

 

[SacandagaBrad]

Patrick,

Here's a link to a list of stuff I've figured out over the years with my TC-24D (basically same machine as yours at 200 rpms slower).

You're going to love that snowblower with the hydraulic chute! What brand is that?

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/nh-owning-operating/80409-tc-24d-lessons-field.html