Fixing Startup Problems with JD 5220, 5320, 5420, 5520

   / Fixing Startup Problems with JD 5220, 5320, 5420, 5520 #81  
The diesel is stored in a plastic drum. The guy where I bought my injectors has an additive and I will get some. The tractor was gone through completely and ran about an hour before the injector failed. John Deere gave me another one. Right after my husband purchased the tractor a guy that was bush hogging fell in the creek. The tractor was in the water some. They pulled it out and changed all guilds and it ran fine for several years. When the first pump failed it could have been the diesel. He was storing the diesel in a metal drum. My husband replaced the first pump and it failed immediately. John Deere fixed the second pump and after we picked it up it failed immediately. John Deere replaced the pump two more times and both failed. I then carried it to the mechanic and he went completely through the motor and installed the next pump. It ran about one hour before pump failed. I purchased another one and it failed in about 60 seconds. John Deere gave me another one. Now I will have it put in and add the fuel pump and clean fuel and full tank and add additive. John Deere claims it was the creek accident that has caused the problems but it worked for several years. My husband had a hay operation and chicken houses so it got worked everyday. Hope this helps.

Are you referring to the small hand operated pump, that has a plunger? Or the main high pressure pump that pushes the fuel to the injectors?
 
   / Fixing Startup Problems with JD 5220, 5320, 5420, 5520 #82  
In what way is pump failing? Is head inside pump seizing &/or pump drive shaft breaking. If so I suspect fuel tank & fuel system hasn't been sufficiently cleaned. Creek sand(silt) is very abrasive. When you state ""mechanic went completely through engine"" does that mean installed new pistons/liners? I'm surprised a dealer has replaced """numerous inj pumps""" without trying to determine the problem!!!!

All they will tell me is the creek accident is the cause. I am not sure what happens to the pump other than it has to be replaced. I read an article on the Internet that said this series of tractors were built without a sufficient fuel delivery system and adding a fuel pump will help.
 
   / Fixing Startup Problems with JD 5220, 5320, 5420, 5520 #83  
This post could apply to other John Deere tractors but it is written specific to the JD 5x20 series (5220, 5320, 5420, 5520) tractors as I own a 5320 model. You may find that your non-5x20 tractor exhibits similar problems and may find this information helpful in your diagnostic process.

There are a number of reasons why a 5x20 series tractor may experience startup problems. This post will cover a few of the most basic of those issues experienced with what would otherwise be considered equipment in good working order and not experiencing engine component failure.

FAILURE #1

The 5x20 series tractor is notorious for startup problems relating to it's inherently poor fuel system design. Specifically, the 5x20 series tractor does not have a fuel pump but rather relies on a gravity fed system plus some minor suction from the fuel injector pump. The 5x20 series tractor design places the fuel tank approximately level or below the fuel filter and fuel injector. Because of this AND coupled with the lack of a fuel pump a common complaint is that the fuel system loses it's prime. The problem is observed much more when the fuel tank is allowed to get to half full or less AND the tractor is allowed to sit over an extended period of time. Loss of fuel prime requires the operator to go through the fuel system priming process and may involve two or three minutes of accumulated engine turnover before the fuel prime is restored and the engine fires.

Refer to your owner's manual for the fuel system priming process. Note: the injection pump is self priming however you must loosen the bleed screw on the injection pump and force any air out of the system by operating the hand pump on top of the fuel filter assembly.

It is hard to say why the 5x20 series tractors sometimes lose their fuel prime. Theoretically this should not happen. However, it does happen and John Deere has acknowledged this issue by generating a service solution. Refer to John Deere technical solution #54399. This solution involves the installation of an electric fuel pump. The John Deere part number for the fuel pump is KV13829. It costs approximately $90.

FAILURE #2

The 5x20 series fuel system includes the use of a check valve between the fuel tank and the fuel filter. This check valve is meant to provide a one way directional flow of fuel from the tank to the filter. Fuel can only pass in one direction and the check valve is there to prevent fuel from flowing the opposite direction and thus a loss of fuel prime. However, as we know from above, the 5x20 series can and sometimes does lose it's prime. Unfortunately, this check valve can get plugged up and thus blocks the delicate flow of fuel from the tank to the fuel filter. This blockage can eventually prevent your tractor from starting up.

Not only can this check valve get plugged up with debris introduced by the operator but it may, in fact, get plugged up by debris in the fuel tank left over from the manufacturing process. Yes, this means that for some folks their check valve is getting plugged up because of poor manufacturing processes at the factory or sloppy workmanship. Specifically, the fuel tank on this series of tractor is made of a polymer plastic type material. When fuel line tap holes are drilled into the newly manufactured tank it isn't uncommon for some of these plastic shavings to remain in the tank. Eventually and over time these small shavings may end up clogging the fuel line check valve. To fix the problem either clear the check valve by removing it and blowing compressed air though it or more appropriately replace the check valve. JD part #AL117189 is a simple plastic check valve that sells for approximately $12 at your JD dealer.

In addition, you may find that debris has also found it's way into the fuel hand priming pump located on top of the fuel filter. The priming pump is easily disassembled for cleaning without tools. Simply unscrewed the plastic ring sitting around the pump remove all the components and clean before reassembling. Pay attention to how the parts are assembled during the cleaning process.

FAILURE #3

If the issues above are not your problem, that is, you don't have a clogged fuel system and you have re-established the prime by performing the priming procedure then the problem could be the fuel shutoff solenoid. The fuel shutoff solenoid is responsible for shutting off the flow of fuel to the injection pump when the key is turned to the OFF position. When the key is turned to the ON position the solenoid makes a "click" sound as the fuel is allowed to flow into the injector pump as the solenoid activates. If you don't hear a "click" sound when you turn the key to the "ON" position it is possible that the either the fuel shutoff solenoid needs to be replaced or electric current is not flowing from the key switch to the solenoid.

You can test the solenoid directly without involving the key switch circuit. To do this make sure the key in in the OFF position. Take a long wire or jumper cable and connect one end to the positive (+) terminal of your tractor battery. Touch the other end of the wire or jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of the fuel shutoff solenoid. You should hear it "click" as the solenoid activates. If this occurs then your fuel shutoff solenoid is in good working order. Otherwise you will need to replace the solenoid. If it is established that the fuel shutoff solenoid is good the next thing to check will be the fuse for it in the fuse box. Refer to your owner's manual for location of the fuel shutoff solenoid fuse or look on the back of the fuse box cover for a fuse map. If the fuse is blown replace it. If the fuse is good then the key switch may be bad.

OTHER ISSUES

Hopefully, if you had a problem starting up your JD 5x20 series tractor, the three solutions above took care of your issue. If not, then obviously the problem could be a lot more complicated or expensive. I won't cover those possible issues here but the problem may be:

1. Cold climate and glow plug failure.
2. Injector pump failure.
3. Injectors clogged.

Good luck. I hope this post helps someone. If anyone wants to post follow up information or additional useful info then please do so.
This is awesome, thank you so much!
Matt
 
   / Fixing Startup Problems with JD 5220, 5320, 5420, 5520 #84  
   / Fixing Startup Problems with JD 5220, 5320, 5420, 5520 #85  
Hi guys, I’m wondering if I install the JD electric pump (kv13829), it should solve all these start up issues going forward, right? 😃
 
   / Fixing Startup Problems with JD 5220, 5320, 5420, 5520 #86  
Hi guys, I’m wondering if I install the JD electric pump (kv13829), it should solve all these start up issues going forward, right? 😃
You shouldn't need an electrical fuel pump.

Replace your main fuel line from the tank to the fuel primer pump. An old hose develops cracks and can let the fuel seep back into tank. If you get dirt in tank, you can contaminate the check ball possibly. Tape the new fuel line to the old one, to help pull it through the frame. I believe I had to drop the tank a few inches to get this accomplished. I put a 2x4 on a floor jack to hold the tank up.

Buy one of these:
Robot or human?

I only need to do this if I let the tractor sit for 2-3 months or more. Use the vacuum pump on the line that goes to the injector pump. Vacuum fuel up to it and then quickly plug the hose back onto the injector pump. Then give it full throttle and crank it. It will usually hit in about 10-15 seconds. Instantly turn down throttle back to idle.
 
   / Fixing Startup Problems with JD 5220, 5320, 5420, 5520 #87  
You shouldn't need an electrical fuel pump.

Replace your main fuel line from the tank to the fuel primer pump. An old hose develops cracks and can let the fuel seep back into tank. If you get dirt in tank, you can contaminate the check ball possibly. Tape the new fuel line to the old one, to help pull it through the frame. I believe I had to drop the tank a few inches to get this accomplished. I put a 2x4 on a floor jack to hold the tank up.

Buy one of these:
Robot or human?

I only need to do this if I let the tractor sit for 2-3 months or more. Use the vacuum pump on the line that goes to the injector pump. Vacuum fuel up to it and then quickly plug the hose back onto the injector pump. Then give it full throttle and crank it. It will usually hit in about 10-15 seconds. Instantly turn down throttle back to idle.
Thanks Kyle! I’m going to give this a try. Think if I go to NAPA and ask for their highest quality fuel line I’ll be good?
Many thanks!
Matt
 
 
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