Fixing Startup Problems with JD 5220, 5320, 5420, 5520

[don5320]

I like the prime bulb idea, where did you put it?

I added to the fuel line just pass the fuel filter anywhere in the line will work.

 

[Thomasthetankengine]

Hello
Michael from Tennesee... I realize you're post is 3 years old, but did you replace the filter system with the same type or something better? Thanks, Tom

 

[don5320]

Hello
Michael from Tennesee... I realize you're post is 3 years old, but did you replace the filter system with the same type or something better? Thanks, Tom

I called the local JD dealer and they replace the fuel filter assemble it still would not crank after a couple of days the new primer was hard to use so I added a prime bulb that made it easier to prime. I later replace the fuel lines with ones from advance auto and luckily have not had anymore trouble with it losing prime

 

[Thomasthetankengine]

Thanks for the info. The list of parts needed to install an inline fuel pump shown earlier sure have gotten pricier. $39.42 for the check valve and $256.76 for one of the harnesses. Can anyone recommend where to splice into the wiring? Wire is cheap, harnesses are rediculous.

 

[jdl636]

I am coming in late to this party but have a 5520 that has plagued me too. My first problem was in the hand primer getting grass particles under the diaphragm and preventing it from pulling a prime. I would try to clean it and always had to replace the O-ring due to it swelling and not allowing me to reassemble. I came up with my own fuel pump idea, didn't realize JD had a kit. NAPA has a unit pump not expensive about $30. I fabricated a skid plate from 1/8 steel that I mounted the pump to and bolted to the frame adjacent to the tank drain. Wired in to a Key on hot source for power. This pump has a filter on it too by the way. Then just spliced the fuel lines. The filter housing with primer also has a kit from JD that removes the primer completely. I changed out to that and have had no more issues with priming.

 

[Grandude]

The first time my 5420 wouldn't start I changed the check valve. The second time it happened I tried that again but no luck. Got on here and that led me to check the fuse to the fuel cutoff solenoid. Blown! So I unplugged the cold start advance switch (temperature switch in parts catalog) put in a new fuse and turned on the key, fuse still good. Next I plugged the switch back in and tried again, boom there goes another fuse but now I know for sure. I used the four way flasher fuse but the cows never payed any attention to them anyway. With the switch unplugged the tractor won't start so I took some #12 copper wire and bent it in a "U" and stuck it in the connector, wrapped it in black tape and finished my work. I'll get a new switch in there ASAP because I'm not sure how that might affect the fuel levels sent to the engine when starting hot or cold. Must be some difference. Apparently the switch shorts to ground internally. As others have mention it is part # RE503242. Thanks for everyone's input!!

 

[donpalmer57]

thank you all for your help & advice, I ended up disconnecting the after market electric pump which was a diaphragm type that actually restricted the flow, the injector pump actually sucks hard, now the machine goes great again.
You all make me proud of owning a John Deere, I chose John Deere as I still own a very old JD400 back hoe & it has shown incredible engineering that allows this old machine to still work very hard.

Thank you all from down under in Australia

 

[arrwo]

does anyone know where I can find john jd technical solution 54399

 

[JD5210]

Looking at your location, have you contacted Anderson Tractor.

Take a look at this post, thread #7 and see if it will meet your needs.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/184685-john-deere-5425-need-help.html

 

[beenthere]

arrwo
:welcome: to TBN
Have you contacted your Deere dealer? What problem are you having, that the tech sol'n #54399 might solve?