Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down...

[rScotty]

"Heard of - but not seen"? I'm not aware of any lift pistons being attached to the con rod. Any tractors I've had apart the rod is connected to the rock shaft arm but free on the other end. I'm not aware of any where manually raising the lift arms will cause the rod to fall out of place and get trapped somewhere. If you know of any what might they be?

Well.... I was trying to be polite to several people who have posted here, If it offends you I will edit it. Or maybe not. You can't have it both ways.

What do you think will happen to that free end of the 3pt bellcrank-to-piston rod when the piston has been sitting so long in the arm-down position that it is stuck to the bore in the full down position.... and then someone tries to fix the 3pt by grabbing hold of the arms and raising them too far in a vain attempt to move the piston? Oops....the arms went up, but now won't come down... feels like they are stuck on something... now what could that be?

Diagnostic mechanical work relies a lot on visualization. What we are trying to do with the diagram and explanations is to get the OP to start to consider how a mechanical problem could come about.
rScotty

 

[JC-jetro]

Yup, Fully agree Scotty, using brute force is not he way to go. I had to got to NH website to realize this hying does not have a cylinder like the others. I did assume it did without checking in to it. I don't know how to look inside without further disassembly of the top lift housing. I had to do that if I had the same issue with my Kubota.
JC

 

[rScotty]

it must be a mechanical interface/binding. Need to push the piston out but how? I wished yours had a cylinder sleeve like almost all of them I saw in 1000 series. That might force you to remove all the top assembly to have access to the ram rod, Pivot arm and a way to push piston out from the back. Nasty situation say the least!
what do ya'll think. How can you pull the piston out if you can't push it out from behind.

That's an interesting question. But do you have to pull the piston forward?
How would you remove the piston to replace the seal #17?

As a last resort, I wonder how thick the top of that piston is?

 

[sandman2234]

I appreciate any and all comments about this tractor!
In the back of my head, bouncing around like a BB in a boxcar, is the thoughts that I couldn't see thru the "outlet" hole in the head. To add to that, is the fact that I received some manuals and documentation with the tractor, and in it was some seals still in the parts bags. (I haven't tracked the part numbers (*yet!) However, it also confirms that this head has been gone into before.
There is no visible corrosion in the head area, or for that matter on the rod (meaning the shaft that raises and lowers the lift arms). I would think there would be a lot more corrosion hiding in plain view when the head was pulled.
There was corrosion on the bolts that hold the head. A lot more than I liked, and enough to worry me about pulling them multiple times, before I replace them.
I am not big on box-store bolts, and the local bolt and screw store has banker hours, which doesn't make it easy for me to get to them.
David from jax

 

[sandman2234]

What hydraulic fluid can I use in this tractor?
David from jax

 

[JC-jetro]

What hydraulic fluid can I use in this tractor?
David from jax

at this point I would not any high$$ NH oil, any Tractor supply oil that meet Ford-134 specs.I have used TSC traveler universal oil with no issue. In the back of the back of the bucket it confirms meeting Ford 134A.
JC

 

[rScotty]

at this point I would not any high$$ NH oil, any Tractor supply oil that meet Ford-134 specs.I have used TSC traveler universal oil with no issue. In the back of the back of the bucket it confirms meeting Ford 134A.
JC

I'd go along with that - with the caveat that when you get it fixed right would be a good time to go to genuine factory oil & filter if you decide to go that direction.

To get you into the debate, the problem with all hydraulic/transmission oils is that unlike motor oils there aren't any 3rd party testing, or regulations, or wear standards that have to be met - except for a published initial viscosity. So for trans/hydraulic oil to meet published specs is pretty easy - there aren't any. Additive formulations are trade secrets. You can mix up a batch yourself and say whatever you like about it.

From a mechanical perspective, that could leave us concerned with real basics - like pH, and how does it do with yellow metals, and also are the additives compatible with the seals. But we don't really know. We take a lot of faith, and truth is that so far the oil compounding industry has been pretty good to tractor owners.

I've never seen a failure that I could definitely attribute to poor quality oils - or OTOH a vintage tractor that ran like new simply because it always had OEM high dollar fluids.

rScotty

 

[jones6780]

The lift went down once with the head removed. Remove it again. DO NOT crank the tractor without everything in the correct place/assembled. With the head removed try the arms with only your body weight. If they go down, then the piston moved in to a position you may be able to remove it and see what is behind it. If the arms won't go down with body weight, remove the top housing that holds the seat, rockshaft and piston. You can then see and find your problem.

 

[sandman2234]

Well, I took a look at the relief/diverter valve and couldn't find anything wrong.
I then pulled the relief valve with the check valves on the side of the head. While it was pulled, fired it up, nothing came out. Pulled the plug from the other side which should be the Auxiliary. Nothing came out from it. So I pulled the head again, looked at it, and decided that things like that shouldn't have simetrical bolt patterns. I had marked with an awl scratch in the paint before I disassembled it, so I knew I was correct, but thought that the 2 ports of different sizes ought to be reversed. A friend who came over pointed it out, which confirmed my suspicions. We put the head back on in the opposite direction, 180 degrees out, and it went up. We both stood on it, and it went down, so I think we have fixed the problem.
I am in the process now of dragging an old Woods finish mower out of the weeds in the back 40, because the finish mower I was going to put behind it has too long of a drive-shaft and I am not ready to shorten it.
THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED, OR TRIED TO HELP, AS IT IS APPRECIATED!
David from jax

 

[JC-jetro]

OH, man. That could potentially do it. I even had two pics that showed those two holes one on the block and one on the head assembly. so the turtle and rabbit knob ended up looking upside down?

JC,